I had a whole write up I was about to post but Im not going to because Im away from the house right now and dont want to tell you misleading information in regards to the picture...

About the black smoke, make sure your vaccume lines are right. My friend had T2 and this was the cause of his problems, it also caused a really rough idle.

be back in afew hours

 

yeah my idle is rough it sounds like a large streetport blip blip
during driving the idle either goes to 1000 and stays there or goes from 600-800 back and forth until it settles to 1000 again.
my vacuum is about 10 and the motor isn't ported that big it's just a streetport.

what else could this be except for a blown motor because that's not it for sure. map sensor is on


which vacuum lines are you refering to? where should I look?

This week I did a few test runs after I fixed the boost leak do you think that could be bad if the vacuum setup is bad? Is it also bad to drive at all with the wrong vacuum?

 

Snook, I guarantee if you read all 10 pages of this thread about 3 times, look at riki's site, look at steve's site, and take the drawings with you to your car you can figure it out. Even a guy as slow as myself managed to figure it out. It just takes some time aand effort to put all the info together. Good luck. Travis

 

im in the middle of the conversion myself... hows the write up?? r u doing the full or the poor man's conversion?

-D-

 

hehe,

the write up is 50% done.

I'm doing the entire conversion. I'd previously done the poormans, use rikki's web page for that one. It tells you everything you need to do it that way and it works when your done. I'm doing the full job, so I wont be able to tell you the outcome for about a month, Im a little broke right now and have no money to invest into my car so I wont be finishing up the job for a bit... When Im done in a month or so, I will include trouble shooting things that I've encountered while doing the conversion....... mayish, i will have it up for everyone that wants.. i'tll include pictures etc and ill host it on a url somwher for yall to look at...

l8z

 

cool... make sure you include all the necessary things like gasket, tools needed, etc...etc... my car is the japanesse efiny and in some areas it differs such as no EGR, no AWS... so you might include that as a note as well.... so good luck and keep us posted...

-D-

 

This isn't a write up it's just to complete the diagram for people that are bad at working on cars like I used to be.

Basically I removed all the emissions with block off plates. Capped everything that wasn't in use. Took off the TCA and wired the door. Took off the pressure chambers and some hard lines and left the solenoids plugged in because I have the pettit ecu and didn't want to see if it would throw codes.

With the manual ball and spring valve I get full boost at 3900 rpms ~12psi in 2nd gear. In the higher gears I get the boost sooner.

 

yeah his site has been down forever he promises to keep putting it up but hasn't

I believe for the poormans all you have to do is take out the TCA and wire the door

I have the same questions also maybe someone can help us.

 

I believe that bright green line goes to a metal line then to the primary inlet...

 

Snook, thanks for making this conversion so much more easier to understand with your diagram... Can you maybe adjust it to work with the manual boost controller? or will it be the same as the previous diagram modified for a manual bc? And what is the thing that the green and aqua lines are going into, i dont need that if im using a manual boost controller right?

-Thanks, Tom

 

yes the bright green line goes to a metal line near the leading coil

Tom thanks for the compliment just trying to make it easy because I struggled with the diagram they had made.

do you see where I wrote boost controller here?
A vac line goes from the left nipple on the wastegate actuator (as you are lookind from the front of the car) to either one of the nipples on the turbo. Just put the valve you are using in the middle of that line. If you want I can make you a ball and spring valve like I am using now the home depot valves are paralized in comparison.

Well, that is the wastegate solenoid that they go to. You can totally do away with those lines if you wish and cap off everything. There are several ways to control boost with non seq and this one is working for me so I left it. Another way is to do what you said just get rid of those 2 lines and cap everything and just have the MBC. Another way is to have the MBC on the left side and then have a MBC on the right nipple on the wastegate actuator also vented to the engine bay.

Try the one that is easier for you first and if you are happy with the boost control keep it.

 

okay i accidentally undid the uim and had to do the poor mans conversion, my laptop doesnt travel so i had to remember it all... well its 545 in the morning and my car wont start. could someone PLEASE show me pics of the back side of the uim and how it is supposed to look like. as well as the front. where the nipples by the tb are.on both sides... also what about the fuel filter? its mentioined but i dont know what it attaches to etc.. i know its a dumb set of questions but my car doesnt start now!

 

Snook, the problem you are experiencing is exactly the same when my MAP sensor disconnected. Check it!

 

Hey Guys,
I just did the true twin mod, however, I left the egr in place and the acv.
I also left 5 solenoids hooked up under the uim:
the fpr solenoid (which I know I can take out now)
the noid controlling the acv (getting blockoffs, and then removing)
the noid leading to the charcoal canister.
the noid controlling the egr
The wastegate noid
My next plans are to blockoff the acv and egr with blockoff plates.
Does anyone know if i can do this with a chipped ecu without too many problems?

 

damn this is an old thread, but yes it should work fine even with a chipped ecu...Not the most recommended route, but it will work.

 

Damn people still read this? WOW

 

Atleast he searched.

 

Hell yeah. I had to find something like this because I needed more info on Non Sequential conversion.
I am trying to put together an all encompassing guide to going non sequential so bums like me wont spend hours looking online with **** for results.
I am still in the process of doing this, but I hope to be done in a day or two.

 

Oh yeah. This may have already been answered. But What Belt could I use if I remove the air pump. I heard that there was a GM belt that would fit.
If anyone knows please let me in.

 

Can anyone help me?

I have a Mazda 13b-re Cosmo engine from Japan which I've put in a Volkeswagon Beach Buggie and I have taken off the twin turboes and just plan to run the engine normal aspirated to start with for now. The engine came with 9 solenoid valves under the intake and they are all color coded.

Does anyone know which one of these 9 solenoid valves I will not need to use with the normal aspirated setup?

 

I just did the non-sequential conversion and wanted people to know that may do the mod in the future that you can still get dontbearikki's guide! As you may notice rikki's site has been down for a while now, so its kind of a pain because everyone makes reference to is howto on the conversion. Well here ya go :

http://web.archive.org/web/200301091...i.com/id49.htm


If that fouls up for some reason (it shouldnt) simply go to www.archive.org and type in http://www.dontbearikki.com and woolah!

Good luck for all who want to do the conversion!

 

Good find man!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

yeah, too bad i found that after i did my conversion

 

what!!!!!!!!

oldy but goody!

-Rikki