non seq setup question
06-21-13, 07:36 AM
#1
non seq setup question
hi guys as many of you have probably seen a couple of my threads about my fd i purchased about 8months ago as far as finding electrical tape in the fuel rail and wiring nightmares lol. anyways ive been driving the car alot and just wanted to check with you guys and be sure some of this stuff is setup right. ive done alot of reading but sometimes i just cant find the anwsers im looking for so ill post up pics to help. first i want to be sure i have the non seq setup right. one of the main things i would like to know if i have the charge relief and air bypass valve hooked up correctly. i have them t'eed to the upper intake manifold. also would like to know if i have the wastegate solenoid installed correctly?
07-21-13, 12:41 PM
#2
not sure if you are still looking for answers... but i will chime in anyway.
i followed the diagram here. the one at the bottom of the first post. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...2/#post8113663
the only difference in my set up is that i dont have the yellow line, the solenoid for the fpr, the oil injector lines and my crv port is blocked off and i just run a single hks bov from the stock bov location. i also have an electronic boost controller. greddy profec b2. i guess youre using the stock green solenoid to control boost or is that brass fitting the actuator goes to a manual boost controller?
i see you looped the ports on your uim. you could use some vacuum caps to fix that. you can get the same caps i got. cheap and high quality for all the sizes you need. the info is in this thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...m-caps-928572/
i did my non-seq set up based on this write up. step by step Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
how did you do yours?
i followed the diagram here. the one at the bottom of the first post. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...2/#post8113663
the only difference in my set up is that i dont have the yellow line, the solenoid for the fpr, the oil injector lines and my crv port is blocked off and i just run a single hks bov from the stock bov location. i also have an electronic boost controller. greddy profec b2. i guess youre using the stock green solenoid to control boost or is that brass fitting the actuator goes to a manual boost controller?
i see you looped the ports on your uim. you could use some vacuum caps to fix that. you can get the same caps i got. cheap and high quality for all the sizes you need. the info is in this thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...m-caps-928572/
i did my non-seq set up based on this write up. step by step Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
how did you do yours?
07-23-13, 12:57 PM
#5
dont cap both the nipples on the oil neck. that serves as our "crank case vent". if you want, run a catch can. cap one nipple on the oil neck and run the other to the catch can then from the catch can, route the hose to point to the ground
so oil neck>catch can>ground
i dont know about your fuel cut issue. what ecu do you have?
so oil neck>catch can>ground
i dont know about your fuel cut issue. what ecu do you have?
07-23-13, 01:29 PM
#7
yea, running it the stock way is best. its the way i have mine. i figured that you deleted it since it wasnt there anymore, thats why i suggested the catch can instead.
what do you mean its a boost leak? i've never tried boosting with both the nipples vented before so if youre getting a boost leak from having them open then i have no idea.
i wouldnt recommend trying to run 13 psi on the stock computer or at all really. without a tune, running more than the stock boost can be dangerous. i would suggest putting the boost at 10 psi tops. an aftermarket ecu like a power fc would really help you out if you wanted to run more boost. an electric boost controller should really be on the top of your to do list.
what do you mean its a boost leak? i've never tried boosting with both the nipples vented before so if youre getting a boost leak from having them open then i have no idea.
i wouldnt recommend trying to run 13 psi on the stock computer or at all really. without a tune, running more than the stock boost can be dangerous. i would suggest putting the boost at 10 psi tops. an aftermarket ecu like a power fc would really help you out if you wanted to run more boost. an electric boost controller should really be on the top of your to do list.
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07-23-13, 11:18 PM
#9
Piston Eater
I did the full emissions delete and non-sequential conversion from Rotary Resurrection to a "T". Rebuilt Stockport and power FC. It's fully tuned now just working out some idle bugs. I wanna get a boost controller and have my guy tune it again.
Anyway my question how much boost can I run? My turbos are only making 7psi now but not the stock 10 like it should.
Could it be making 7 due to a very good job porting the waste-gate/cutting out the other doors?
Anyway my question how much boost can I run? My turbos are only making 7psi now but not the stock 10 like it should.
Could it be making 7 due to a very good job porting the waste-gate/cutting out the other doors?
07-23-13, 11:27 PM
#10
Idk why your not getting the full 10. A boost controller should allow you to set it to 10. I can get .7bar with my turbos on my profec b2. I have it set to .55 currently.
I wouldn't run more than 10psi on the stock twins. Im sure you COULD run more but for reliability reasons i personally wouldn't go above stock. If you ported the wastegate properly and removed and plugged the doors and arms then you should be able to get a full 10.
Make sure you dont have any boost leaks anywhere.
I wouldn't run more than 10psi on the stock twins. Im sure you COULD run more but for reliability reasons i personally wouldn't go above stock. If you ported the wastegate properly and removed and plugged the doors and arms then you should be able to get a full 10.
Make sure you dont have any boost leaks anywhere.
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