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No spark at all (faulty CAS wiring)

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #1  
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From: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
No spark at all (faulty CAS wiring)

I checked:

-Fuses
-12V to each of the wires that goes to the coils.
-ECU connectors wiring (I got a PFC and Datalogit but who cares)


I changed:
-Spark plug wires
-Coils
-Crank Angle Sensor

Now my two questions are:

1. How can I repair the metal wrap that prevents noise? Is this really useful?
2. Key ON, am I supposed to get voltage somewhere with a simple test light (I got nothing).

Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:33 PM
  #2  
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From: Cols., OH
OH No spark ?????

How is it that you know 100% for sure you are not getting any spark??

What did old plugs look like?

Does engine turn over with key, sounds totally normal, but wont start????

Need a little info/history. If I am to build bricks, I must have clay....
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:01 AM
  #3  
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I'm 100 % sure I do not get any spark because when I plug spark plug wires in coils, none of them get sparks while I turn over the key.

Old plugs look slightly used, compression is OK.

Yes engine turn over with key and sounds totally normal, the tachometer won't bounce at all (stays under 0 RPM).

I had an engine fire because of Fuel Pulsation Damper, that's why I had to change the wiring harness.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MuRCieLaGo
I'm 100 % sure I do not get any spark because when I plug spark plug wires in coils, none of them get sparks while I turn over the key.

Old plugs look slightly used, compression is OK.

Yes engine turn over with key and sounds totally normal, the tachometer won't bounce at all (stays under 0 RPM).

I had an engine fire because of Fuel Pulsation Damper, that's why I had to change the wiring harness.

Pull one wire at a time from the plugs and sick a screwdriver in it. Lay the screw driver over the chassis Of the car with out the metal touching the chassis metal. Turn the key.. You should be able to see spark between the screw driver and the chassis.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:28 AM
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From: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Originally Posted by MOBEONER
Pull one wire at a time from the plugs and sick a screwdriver in it. Lay the screw driver over the chassis Of the car with out the metal touching the chassis metal. Turn the key.. You should be able to see spark between the screw driver and the chassis.
Yes that's what I did.

I even plugged my fingers in them , I felt nothing.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 06:34 AM
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The tach signal is fed directly from the PFC, it gets the signal from the CAS.

First thing to check..Connector orientation on CAS, white on top, grey to the right (looking from the front of the car)

If that is correct, then you need to inspect your grounds. What do the other sensors read on the commander?

It is a possibilty that you could have fried the PFC when you had your engine fire. You have voltage to the coils, the PFC just gounds the igniter, which gounds the coils to make them fire. This is all based off CAS pick up signal.

Last edited by Banzai-Racing; Mar 11, 2011 at 06:38 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:42 AM
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From: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Connector orientation is OK.

I did some work on CAS wiring harness this morning.

Yesterday's log:
Time(S) RPM PIM PIM V TPS V InjFrPr Inj +/- IGL IGT FuelT Oil PC% WG% WtrT AirT Knock BatV Speed ???(2) O2S ??? InjFrSc
3.167 0 10029 2.656 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.198 0 10029 2.656 4.887 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.229 0 10029 2.656 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.261 0 10029 2.656 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.292 0 10029 2.656 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.323 0 10029 2.656 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.354 0 10029 2.656 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.385 0 10005 2.651 4.892 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 11.6 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.417 0 0 0.883 4.790 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 7.8 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.775 0 0 0.883 4.804 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 7.9 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.807 0 0 0.883 4.814 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.0 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.838 0 0 0.883 4.829 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.1 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.869 0 0 0.883 4.838 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.1 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.900 0 0 0.883 4.843 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.2 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.931 0 0 0.883 4.853 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.2 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
3.978 0 10029 2.656 4.858 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.1 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
4.009 0 10029 2.656 4.863 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 8.0 0 0 0.000 0 0.000
4.041 0 10029 2.656 4.863 0.000 0 -25 -25 0 97 1 1 3 175 0 7.8 0 0 0.000 0 0.000





Today's log:
Time(S) RPM PIM PIM V TPS V InjFrPr Inj +/- IGL IGT FuelT Oil PC% WG% WtrT AirT Knock BatV Speed ???(2) O2S ??? InjFrSc
9.220 0 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 88 1 1 6 175 0 11.9 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.251 0 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.9 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.282 0 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.9 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.313 131 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 1 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.345 131 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.376 131 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.423 131 9949 2.641 4.887 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.454 131 9949 2.641 4.887 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.485 131 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.532 131 9949 2.641 4.887 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.563 131 9949 2.641 4.887 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.594 131 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.625 0 9949 2.641 4.892 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.8 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000
9.657 0 9949 2.641 4.887 49.500 542 7 1 5 87 1 1 6 175 0 11.9 0 1000 0.000 76 0.000

So now I have fire on both leading wires, T2 wires only when I start cranking and when I release the key, 2 little sparks comes out the plug and nothing at T1 wire.

Resistance of T1 coil is OK (1.0 ohm).
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:29 PM
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Simple question: where is the stock location for the coils ground? Where is it supposed to bolt?
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:51 PM
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It's a small (m4 sized, so 8mm head) ring connector that bolts to one of the studs that hold the middle (leading) coil to the coil bracket. The newer harnesses don't have this ground..... if you still have your original harness consider replacing it. They're relatively inexpensive.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 03:42 AM
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From: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
It's a small (m4 sized, so 8mm head) ring connector that bolts to one of the studs that hold the middle (leading) coil to the coil bracket. The newer harnesses don't have this ground..... if you still have your original harness consider replacing it. They're relatively inexpensive.
I changed the harness since the fire but I bought another crispy one...

Thanks for its location! I'll try bolting it there this morning.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 05:47 AM
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Go to the sensor/switch check screen on the commander and check your other sensors.

Looking at your log above, it looks like the TPS voltage is maxed out, this is a problem unless you were holding it WOT while cranking.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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He had 2 questions. Nobody answered his first question:

"1. How can I repair the metal wrap that prevents noise? Is this really useful?"

I also have a damaged wire and need to know the best way to repair the shielding. I understand that the CAS signal is sensitive and needs to be shielded from noise.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MustangEater
He had 2 questions. Nobody answered his first question:

"1. How can I repair the metal wrap that prevents noise? Is this really useful?"

I also have a damaged wire and need to know the best way to repair the shielding. I understand that the CAS signal is sensitive and needs to be shielded from noise.
This may help me also... I get a bouncing tach (0-250) whenever the key is in the on position and the car has not been started
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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From what I searched, we don't really need the metal wrap.
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