I just bought a 1993 RX-7 from a local guy on Friday. The engine was rebuilt 33,000 miles ago, with alot of upgrades done to it. (425hp on race gas). I know nothing about the rx-7. lol Ive driven it this weekend and to work today (400 miles) I checked the oil this morning before going to work and it was really low down to the tip of the dip stick. I added 1 1/2 quarts to it. Drove to work (170 miles) and when I got home I had to add another 1 1/2 quarts to it again. It smoles when I start it but stops after a few minues. Im talking to a friend of mine that is saying that it could be running so rich the oil is getting into the crankcase and thinning the oil out?

It also has a problem starting after 20 to 30 minutes of driving. It will crank and sound like its going to start and then die. There is a strong smell of gas which leads me to belive that its flooding. Ive tried the recommended running it to 3000 rpm for 10 seconds and then turning the ignition off.

I know this is a vague description of my issues but any help would be appreciated.

please ask if you need anymore info.

 

man I hope your motor is not shot.. did you get a comp. test done?

 

You didn't happen to get a compression test done on it did you?

 

No I didnt. Everyplace I called around here didnt know anything about the rotary motors. The seemed pretty stand up. He had reciepts for everything done to the car. He had everything done at Rotary Perfromance in Dallas, Tx.

It runs really good. lol Im getting ready to pull the plugs to see what they look like.

Any opionon on what my freind was saying about the fel thinning the oil?

 

off topic, i know, but could u post some more pics of that hood, it looks nice and simple, i love it...

 

Blow-by is pretty typical with these cars. However, if you are eating that much oil, it's possible you have failed or damaged oil o-rings.

You can do a compression test yourself (once you borrow/rent/find a compression tester). While it may not give you 'exact' numbers, you can at least get an idea if all the rotor faces are even and if both rotors are close to each other.

 

What is the procedure to do the compression test? What should the compression be? I do have a compression tester handy. :-). I just hope im smiling after I do the compression test. I spent a pretty good load of money on this car. Doom on me for not researching before I buy..

 

Here you go:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/te...ion_check.html

http://www.fd3s.net/compression_test.html

I would do that first, so at least you'll know where you are with the engine. Granted, if you have oil control ring problems, a compression test may not reveal that; but it is a good place to start.

 

A freind of mine that was fallowing me today today on his motorcycle was saying that there was a really strong smell of fuel when he was following me on the interstate. he said it was so bad that he had to go around me.

 

Honestly, a rotary in good condition with a midpipe will make your eyes water if you are behind it.

Start with the compression test first. If that doesn't turn out good, there is no sense in looking at anything else. If it does, then you can look at getting some new spark plugs and a good tune.

 

Ozzman looks like you have Kevins old car w/ a T78. I have seen the car a couple of times. It has been taken very good care of to my knowledge. I am in South OKC and there are a few others of us around. If you need some help we can give you a hand and help you learn the car.

 

rotaryinspired any help to get to know the ins and outs of the RX 7 would be greatly appreciated.


Yes this is Kevins car. Im hoping that its not a major issue, but its sounding more and more like its going to be. I could tell that he took alot of pride in his car. When we went to pick it up it was almost like he didnt want me to take it. One of the things he told me before I left was take good care of her for me. I can understand Ive never in my 36 years had a car that drew so much attention from other peaple. From what ive seen of Kevin he is one of the nicest guys Ive had the pleasure of meeting. Im certain that if there is anything wrong he was not aware of it. Im really hoping its not anything major.
From what Kevin has told me that Chris at Rotory Performance in Garland TX has done all of the work on it. ive been talking to him quit abit this week. I looked at all the plugs tonight Ill post some pictures of them. When the car is started up there is a continious grey/blue smoke. When it is first started its smokes pretty good but dies down quit abit when idling. When traveling down the road it seems to disapate but when under boost its alot of blue/grey smoke countinous according to a friend of mine. he said that when driving normal down the road he could not notice any smoke. I hope this makes alittle since..




Top Back Plug


Top Back plug


Top Front Plug

 

As Mahjik mentioned, you should test the compression of your motor. Second, some new spark plugs would be a good idea; your electrodes are looking pretty worn, and that could have something to do with your flooding issues. From your photos, it looks like your car has NGK BUR9EQ plugs installed in all four positions. I've documented my spark plugs in the past, so here are some photos of spark plugs both new and used.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/post-your-spark-plug-photos-here-417119/


Blue smoke usually means burning oil: it's possible that your turbo is getting worn out, or the factory oil-injection pump (MOP) is injecting too much oil. It's also possible that smoke is a result of the car being tuned very very rich to keep the engine from getting too hot (which is better than overheating and ruining the motor).

-s-

 

You seriously drive 170 mi to work? Thats insane....

 

Thats round trip. Ive got a 2000 Honda Cbr 929RR I ride to work.

 

Smoke at first start up and then only under boost sounds alot like the seals in the turbo are going. One thing you can do is take off the Downpipe and inspect for oil, also check the IC pipes for oil. Oil should not be in the IC pipes unless you have a turbo seal problem. Good luck

Also, the white spark plug looks to me like an indicator of running lean. Correct me if i'm wrong.

 

Here are a couple pics from the Turbo to the Intercooler.

Turbo


45 Elbow


Intercooler

 

Piping looks good. So we have eliminated the compressor side oil seal as the culprit. I would check the DP next. If no oil is found than we can assume that the oil is coming from inside the motor. Possible causes would be the OMP system and oil control seals. As a side note, if you still have a PCV, make sure you also have a hose running from the inlet side of the turbo to the oil filler neck. This caused smoke during boost for me, as the PCV closes under boost and the crankcase will pressureize causeing oil to be pushed passed the seals, especially if its already "watered" down with fuel.

 

Even if it is the exhaust side seal, he probably won't see any oil in the exhaust side. As hot as turbo engines, let alone turbo rotaries run, any oil will pretty much turn to dry carbon, that was my experience anyway.

 

True, however, he indicated that there is a ton of smoke on startup, which if it is the exhaust side seal, would tell me that its leaking in to the exhaust with the engine off, and is burning off when started.

 

Really corroded spark plugs, haven't been changed in a long long time also rich needs a tune maybe........

 

Got the car on jackstands today there is alot of oil underneath the oil pan and i guess what would be a rear main seal. But without puddles of oil on the ground im finding it hard to believe that this is the whole problem.

Back Side of engine and oil pan



Right side near oil pan drain

 

holy crap that a lot of oil. something similar to this happened to me a while back. turned out to be the rear main seal and apex seals......rebuild. good luck.

 

Thats not what i wanted to here!!!! lol

 

Holy heck is that an wastegate go to atmosphere? I have heard that is crazy loud.

Second to the more details on the hood, looks factory with louvers