thiasRx7

Ok guys here is my proplem. I just finished installing my rebuilt motor I bought from djseven on the forum who said the motor was rebuilt by rotary resurection. So the motor should by all means have been a good rebuild. For my mods I have removed all emissions, Apex N1 catback, DP, intakes, AST, all new vac hoses. everything else is all stock.

On my first start up it started kind of hard which I had expected, but then persisted on still running rough and would not idle by itself, I had to keep my foot on the gas the whole time or it would die. I then went back through all of the vac hoses and the wiring harness to double check everything was connected and running to the right place. Everything checked out ok. I also checked all fuses and those were also all ok. I tried a few more times that night to get it running double checking everthing over and over again and nothing changed.

I should also add that with the rebuilt motor I also put in new plugs and plug wires, cleaned and flow tested injectors, fuel filter, and O2 sensor.

Now here is the strange part. The next day I tried again and after starting hard it would run perfect except it would stil not idle by itself. For the time being I tightened the throtle cable so I could start it and actually get out of the car to look under the hood since I have no help and have to do everything by myself. I had to get the idle up to 1200 rpm to keep it running by itself and even then it was still hunting off and on. Everything under the hood looked and sounded good so I took it out on a test drive. I drove it on a loop through town and came back. A total of about 4 miles. On my drive it was real sluggish starting out from a stop. I had to give it about three times more gas than I used to to get going. Once moving it would run smooth. I never took the engine past 3000 rpm and definitely never boosted. Right before I got home I put the car in nutral and let off the gas to coast to my turn and all of a sudden it just died. luckly I was on a hill and still going fast enough to pop the cluch to get it going again. Now the car was back to running just like it was the first time I started it and is exactly how it ran when I thought I blew the last motor. It didnt even have enough power to get me up the little hill to my house. I stalled in the road and had to push it to my house.

since all of this has happened I have done alot of reading on the forum and have tried the following: swaped out coils and ignitor, retested injectors which are good, checked the TPS and voltages are all in range, checked fuel pump resistor which runs .8 ohms speck says .57 - .70, dont know if thats a problem or not, I have done a compression test with a piston compression tester but only tested it with the engine cold. I cant keep the engine running long enough without smoking myself out long enough to get it to normal opperating temp. Front had three equal spikes to aprox. 33- 35 psi and rear had three equal spikes to aprox. 53 -55 psi. Not what I would call great numbers. Thats all I can think of that I have done right now.

Symptoms as of right now: Starts very hard if i can even get it to start. When running it runs horrible with lots of bucking under 2000 rpm. Boost gauge while running does not bounce to my surprise. It runs around 10 -12 in hg. which is low but keep in mind I am having to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. Smells greatly of raw fuel and is very wet in exhaust tip. There are no fuel leaks anywhere. there are no leaks of any kind anywhere. Lots of smoke coming out of exhaust. I dont have a aftermarket temp gauge yet but my factory gauge reads right where it always has.

Thats all I can think of right now. Please help, I am out of money, out of ideas, and definitely short on help. Please bear with me if I dont respond right away. I work out of town durring the week and have no access to the internet durring that time.

Thank you all for taking time to read my novel and please help.

Matthew Nieman

thiasRx7

Oh a few more things. Pulled codes by blinking check engine light method. Came up with 16, 30, 33, 38, and 39 which only have to do with the emissions that I removed. Pulled dip stick and it has a hint of gas smell.

On my old motor apex seals all seamed to be intacked and still had spring to them when I pushed on them through the exhaust port. Very small amount of metal shavings came out of rear housing.

So did I get a bad rebuild or am I completly missing something. I am thinking that somehow I already blew the rebuild because of the same problem that blew the first one even though it has only seen 4 miles and 3000 rpm or my first motor really isnt blown and I still have the original problem and dont know what the hell it is. sigh.

Eggie

Since you're getting codes, the stock ECU has you in limp mode.

spandy

iTrader: (1)

A fuel smell in the oil seems to be the norm.

thiasRx7

So how do I get it out of limp mode? If it is just disconnecting the ground waiting 20 seconds and depressing the brake pedal and then reconnecting the ground again, I have done that numerous times now.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Those codes won't cause limp mode.

First thing, are you sure you have the CAS connectors on the proper sensors?

Next, did you have the injectors cleaned before they were installed?

thiasRx7

I'm 100% positive the CAS connectors are on the right sensor. I made little paint dots to make sure of it when I took them off of the old motor.

As for the injectors, no they were not cleaned before I installed them. I checked the resistance on all of them and made sure they weren't stuck by hooking them directly up to a 12v supply and they all clicked. I know they could still have had bad flow or be dripping, but I didnt believe that an injector was the problem since it apears to be running super rich with the smell of raw gas and fuel coming out of the exhaust. I bought another set and installed them after just to make sure they weren't the problem. I still have the original set and could get them tested just to make sure I guess.

John Magnuson

Did you remove the ECU at any point? Sometimes the ground wires that are part of the wiring harness that connects to the ecu will slip up into their protective covers and if you fail to reconnect them you'll get a really poor idle.

thiasRx7

No I never even touched it.

thiasRx7

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

Matthew Nieman

thiasRx7

ttt

thiasRx7

Do you guys think that I might have an ECU problem? Or maybe the factory timing got out of wack some how. I just find it hard to believe that I already blew this motor and why would it run crapy then run fine for 4 miles and now run even worse than the first time. Someone has had to have this problem before.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

It may just be flooded.

thiasRx7

It might be flooded now but that still doesnt explain why it just died all of a sudden after running fairly smooth for 4 miles.

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

Have you checked your MAP sensor?

thiasRx7

I havent been able to check that yet. The FSM says you have to warm up the engine and leave it running to check it. I cant keep the car running to check it. I will probably just buy one from the for sale section just to make sure too.

I will be out of town til tuesday night so i will not be able to respond til then, but please keep the ideas coming guys.

thanks

Matthew Nieman

pincusa

iTrader: (1)

Check your coils to make sure they're all firing. If you lose one pack, or if the ground wire isn't seated correctly, that might cause a weak spark and give you some problems.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Here's where I would start if I were you:


1. I would recheck your CAS connectors. The white connector goes on top, grey on the lower.

2. Check/test your ignition system

3. Check/test the MAP sensor

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Maybe I'm confused but didn't you write that you compression tested it and it has very low compression?

If those #s are correct then that's your problem.

bryant

is it blackish smoke??
if so its probley the map sensor!
that would have it running rich like raw fuel, and you would have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running.
and if you have ran it to far like this, you will need new spark plugs because the old ones will be about fowled out.

so if its plugged in make sure it in the right hole on the uim, or that it works at all.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

EXACTLY what I was about to write...very surprised you were the first to point it out besides me. My motor had 90 on all 3 faces on the rear and 30-30-90 on the front when it was blown....those numbers are way too low.

Trev

thiasRx7

Mahjik...1. The CAS connectors are in the right spot
2. Everything on the ignition system has been replaced. I replaced plugs, plug wires, coils, and ignitor. Even the old stuff tested good but I replaced them anyway. Please explain how else I might test this stuff or if I might be missing something.
3. As for the map sensor it is pluged in and the hose is hooked up to the right spot. Like I said before I really cant test it so I am going to get one from the for sale section just to be safe.


As for some of the other questions asked here goes. . . I checked the coils and they are all firing and the ground wire is fastened properly. I have bluish white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Now I dont quite now whats up with the compression. If it was a bad apex seal it would get two low #s and one high. What I am getting is all three low #s that are very close to the same. On both rotors I had three even spikes. Front rotor was 33-35 psi and the rear was 53-55 psi. So either I have a **** compression tester or the motor wasnt built very good if I'm getting that low of numbers. I dont know what to think. I might just go down to the mazda dealer and see if they even have a rotary compression tester and see what they get. Only problem is I dont have any way to get my car there.

Well my plan for now is I am going to buy new plugs because I'm sure my new ones are already fouled beyond belief and get a different map sensor. It will probably take a week or more to get the stuff, but I will let you guys no what happens as soon as I get them.

Thank you all for your concern

Matthew Nieman

rd_turbo

iTrader: (4)

Try to figure out your compression first. If the values that you mentioned are reconfirmed with a new compression tester, then you have serious issues. When compression is down all the way around like that, it's a result of stuck side or corner seals. That would be really poopy. Start with a reliable compression tester...it doesn't have to be a Mazda unit.