New on ClubRX - Rewire your fuel pump! Easy, cheap, reliability mod!
#126
Almost back together
iTrader: (4)
I need to does thsi mod to my car. I have some parts that I have not installed yet do to waiting to get more stuff son I can tune at one time. With this mod i will not have to worry about a tune and I can feel like I have done something.
I will go the route that Gadd has done.
I will go the route that Gadd has done.
#127
OK boys, checked out my idea - using the existing FP fuse to implement this mod. Turns out reality is not as simple as the wiring diagram. The problem is not that there isn't sufficient power available in the under dash fuse box. This box is actually called the "joint box" by Mazda. No the problem is that it is not very user servicable. It is kind of like a multi-layered circuit board in there. Once I removed the joint box and popped off the back cover, I quickly decided I did not want to try my idea at all:
So I went the Gadd route. Nice thing is that Mazda left a beefy unswitched positive power wire in the second to last (unused) fuse slot right next to the fuel pump relay (these are the very heavy gage black wires visible in the picture below). There is no need to run a new wire from the battery to power the Big Blue wire, you only need to add a fuse and a connection to the Blue wire. I snipped the Big Blue wire and crimped a bullet connector to it. Then I drilled a 1/4 inch hole straight through the unused side of the fuse connector, from the top, to allow my female spade connector to fit. I crimped the female onto a heavy gage wire a few inches long and dropped it down through this hole in the top, and installed the fuse. On the backside, I installed a bullet connector onto this wire. Finallly I plugged the two bullets into a female-female bullet coupler and closed it all back up:
I used the 20 amp fuse from the under dash joint box, to plug into my new fuse location next to the fuel pump relay. Looks very clean and there was no need to run a new wire to the battery:
Before I did this modification, my fuel pump readings were not quite as low as Dale's. But I did get 1.1 volts out of this modification:
before:
WOT / no accessories: FP reading = 12.7 volts
WOT / headlights and AC max: FP reading = 12.5 volts
after:
WOT / no accessories: FP reading = 13.8 volts
WOT / headlights and AC max: FP reading = 13.6 volts
So I went the Gadd route. Nice thing is that Mazda left a beefy unswitched positive power wire in the second to last (unused) fuse slot right next to the fuel pump relay (these are the very heavy gage black wires visible in the picture below). There is no need to run a new wire from the battery to power the Big Blue wire, you only need to add a fuse and a connection to the Blue wire. I snipped the Big Blue wire and crimped a bullet connector to it. Then I drilled a 1/4 inch hole straight through the unused side of the fuse connector, from the top, to allow my female spade connector to fit. I crimped the female onto a heavy gage wire a few inches long and dropped it down through this hole in the top, and installed the fuse. On the backside, I installed a bullet connector onto this wire. Finallly I plugged the two bullets into a female-female bullet coupler and closed it all back up:
I used the 20 amp fuse from the under dash joint box, to plug into my new fuse location next to the fuel pump relay. Looks very clean and there was no need to run a new wire to the battery:
Before I did this modification, my fuel pump readings were not quite as low as Dale's. But I did get 1.1 volts out of this modification:
before:
WOT / no accessories: FP reading = 12.7 volts
WOT / headlights and AC max: FP reading = 12.5 volts
after:
WOT / no accessories: FP reading = 13.8 volts
WOT / headlights and AC max: FP reading = 13.6 volts
The following users liked this post:
tomatoto (03-10-20)
#128
MY FD WAS STOLEN FROM PPR
so i decided to go the "GADD" route as well. i basically screwed myself over. i cut the wire in the wrong direction, meaning i cut it extremely short to the relay to the point that i cant get anything on there. for some reason i thought i had to have the wire coming from the wiring harness as long as possible when it was the complete opposite which i now understand. sucks to be me.
with that being said, can some please explain to me how to de-pin the blue wire from the green relay so that i can fix my mistake without making the situation worse then it already is.
thanks in advance
with that being said, can some please explain to me how to de-pin the blue wire from the green relay so that i can fix my mistake without making the situation worse then it already is.
thanks in advance
#129
Originally Posted by InitialFD
so i decided to go the "GADD" route as well. i basically screwed myself over. i cut the wire in the wrong direction, meaning i cut it extremely short to the relay to the point that i cant get anything on there. for some reason i thought i had to have the wire coming from the wiring harness as long as possible when it was the complete opposite which i now understand. sucks to be me.
with that being said, can some please explain to me how to de-pin the blue wire from the green relay so that i can fix my mistake without making the situation worse then it already is.
thanks in advance
with that being said, can some please explain to me how to de-pin the blue wire from the green relay so that i can fix my mistake without making the situation worse then it already is.
thanks in advance
Maybe somebody who has unplugged the relay can comment on this?
#130
MY FD WAS STOLEN FROM PPR
no such luck. its pretty much flush with the plasic. no soldering if i wanted to. it pretty much just needs to come out and a new one put back in from what ive seen.
i tried pulling it out from the bottom of the fuse box but am getting no where fast and am afraid i am going to end up breaking something if i persist.
i tried pulling it out from the bottom of the fuse box but am getting no where fast and am afraid i am going to end up breaking something if i persist.
#131
MY FD WAS STOLEN FROM PPR
i got it!! if anyone wants to know how to de-pin this **** let me know. not as hard as you would think just gotta know what to do. all the pulling and pushing in the world wouldnt help if i didnt figure it out. should be able to pick up some parts tommorow and be good to go.
what can i say frustration can be blinding sometimes.
what can i say frustration can be blinding sometimes.
#135
MY FD WAS STOLEN FROM PPR
sounds about right, kinda has a trianglur shape on the backside of the spade connector holding it from coming out. just gotta bend the spade connector to enough to get past it, then pull from the back of the fuse box. i was planning on posting up some pictures for those want a visual but that about sums it up.
to get it back in is the exact opposite, push spade back in, bend spade ends and your basically done.
not hard just gotta now what to do.
to get it back in is the exact opposite, push spade back in, bend spade ends and your basically done.
not hard just gotta now what to do.
#136
development
Originally Posted by rxcited2
So I went the Gadd route.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=87
^just for ref. There is a reason you won't see the stock "joint box"
#137
Originally Posted by dubulup
I'm glad we see eye to eye, now
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=87
^just for ref. There is a reason you won't see the stock "joint box"
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=87
^just for ref. There is a reason you won't see the stock "joint box"
#138
A Fistfull of Dollars!
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by dubulup
I'm glad we see eye to eye, now
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=87
^just for ref. There is a reason you won't see the stock "joint box"
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=87
^just for ref. There is a reason you won't see the stock "joint box"
#143
Dunno what it is. But this does explain why our US cars have a beefy wire supplying half of what is needed for this mod.
Without knowing what your JDM fuse is doing, I would leave it alone. There should be one more vacant position in that fuse box. You'll need to use two female spade connectors, one for the relay side and one for the power side. You could jumper the power side with a heavy gauge wire to one of the beefy black wires already there. This would still be cleaner than running a whole nother separate wire to the battery.
Without knowing what your JDM fuse is doing, I would leave it alone. There should be one more vacant position in that fuse box. You'll need to use two female spade connectors, one for the relay side and one for the power side. You could jumper the power side with a heavy gauge wire to one of the beefy black wires already there. This would still be cleaner than running a whole nother separate wire to the battery.
#145
Originally Posted by BobfisH
Yeah but that wouldnt be fused either...think im just gonna run a separate wire.
#147
Originally Posted by BobfisH
There are no empty fuse slots! lol but thanks for your help anyway.
Separate fuse with wire to battery then I guess.
#148
Searching for 10th's
iTrader: (11)
The history impaired among us, and/or those just too young to know about it, may not realize that using 'jap' as short for 'Japanese' is considered a racial slur.
Some may contest this due to the context (not referring to people) but the context really doesn't matter. Best just to not use it.
Some may contest this due to the context (not referring to people) but the context really doesn't matter. Best just to not use it.
Last edited by jkstill; 03-19-07 at 01:55 PM.