New on ClubRX - Rewire your fuel pump! Easy, cheap, reliability mod!
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: PEI canada
just did this to my FD an i do notice a difference in high boost high rpm range when fuel would be more required,
my car still runs good air fuel ratios 13.5-13.8 at idle and under boost and heavy throttle around 10.5 area
my car still runs good air fuel ratios 13.5-13.8 at idle and under boost and heavy throttle around 10.5 area
Thinking about doing this. Did your AFRs change?
Eric Seven
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 276
Likes: 32
From: France
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,833
Likes: 493
From: Stockton, CA
Eric Seven
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 276
Likes: 32
From: France
On that schema, it looks like you need to add a new relay and wire from the battery, and if it's not necessary I'd like to avoid it and go the "easy" way.
I think I will follow that one finally : https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ewire-1124167/
Last edited by tomatoto; Mar 11, 2020 at 04:38 AM.
Tomatoto... posts #10 and #32 have what you are looking for. Instead of feeding the L (blue) fuel pump wire thru the ignition switch and a bunch of connectors you are feeding it with an existing large gauge + wire already in the fuse box.
I connected the blue FP wire to the existing spare + lead in the fues box with a new 20A fuse and mounted it next to the fuse box.
I connected the blue FP wire to the existing spare + lead in the fues box with a new 20A fuse and mounted it next to the fuse box.
Gadd - good tip with the spare 12V 10AWG source
Attachment 700978
^little fun with Paint
for those that can't picture what is going on...
Attachment 700979
The "L" (blue) wire on the Fuel Pump Relay is now being supplied straight from the battery...oppose to about 5 connectors and the ignition switch
Great Thread Dale!
I have to recommend splicing over soldering as well...I have extensive rewiring projects on my FD (and many others, and many other cars), and have 0 solder joints and 0 failures. Good tooling and use is key, as mentioned. Always "pull" check splices...if a slice is loose and can pull out, better to find out now...also loose splice = HIGH resistance = HEAT...we don't want any fires. Heat shrink is also a good idea in the engine bay, keeps moisture/corrosion out.
Attachment 700978
^little fun with Paint
for those that can't picture what is going on...
Attachment 700979
The "L" (blue) wire on the Fuel Pump Relay is now being supplied straight from the battery...oppose to about 5 connectors and the ignition switch
Great Thread Dale!
I have to recommend splicing over soldering as well...I have extensive rewiring projects on my FD (and many others, and many other cars), and have 0 solder joints and 0 failures. Good tooling and use is key, as mentioned. Always "pull" check splices...if a slice is loose and can pull out, better to find out now...also loose splice = HIGH resistance = HEAT...we don't want any fires. Heat shrink is also a good idea in the engine bay, keeps moisture/corrosion out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,724
From: Pensacola, FL
I don't think I've tried it with a stock car. That said, it depends on how it's wired up, I think you can keep the relay function with a higher voltage input.
3k hesitation will ALWAYS be there with a stock ECU, period. Some cars are better, some are worse, but it's really just a bug in the software in the stock ECU. PowerFC will absolutely remove it. Supposedly some of the Japanese chipped ECU's will get rid of the 3k issue as well.
Dale
3k hesitation will ALWAYS be there with a stock ECU, period. Some cars are better, some are worse, but it's really just a bug in the software in the stock ECU. PowerFC will absolutely remove it. Supposedly some of the Japanese chipped ECU's will get rid of the 3k issue as well.
Dale
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