New on ClubRX - Rewire your fuel pump! Easy, cheap, reliability mod!
01-22-07, 11:05 AM
#28
Big Snail
No its richer. Lower the number the richer the A/F ratio.
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
Am I reading this right... Walbro with the wiring mod resulted in leaner AFR???
01-22-07, 01:45 PM
#29
Crimped connectors
Originally Posted by DaleClark
There's a lot of debate about it, but a crimped connection is best in an automotive environment. I also illustrated using crimped connections as it's easy for most anyone to do and get a solid, quality connection.
Dale
Dale
When buy some molex connectors (wiring gauges) at a local electronics house, the proprietor made the same point. He builds off-road vehicles in his spare time.
The key to good connections are to buy a decent crimper (Kline or similar - $20) and good quality connectors. You cannot get good connectors are Harbor Freight. Home Depot on the other hand seems to have some decent stuff.
This is one of those rare instances where the easier solution is also the better one.
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tomatoto (03-09-20)
01-22-07, 02:10 PM
#31
Originally Posted by jkstill
The GRM article on automotive wiring a couple years ago made this same point. Crimped connections in a car are superior to soldered connections. Solder wire connections tend to be brittle and crack/break when subjected to vibration. I've experienced this myself.
When buy some molex connectors (wiring gauges) at a local electronics house, the proprietor made the same point. He builds off-road vehicles in his spare time.
The key to good connections are to buy a decent crimper (Kline or similar - $20) and good quality connectors. You cannot get good connectors are Harbor Freight. Home Depot on the other hand seems to have some decent stuff.
This is one of those rare instances where the easier solution is also the better one.
When buy some molex connectors (wiring gauges) at a local electronics house, the proprietor made the same point. He builds off-road vehicles in his spare time.
The key to good connections are to buy a decent crimper (Kline or similar - $20) and good quality connectors. You cannot get good connectors are Harbor Freight. Home Depot on the other hand seems to have some decent stuff.
This is one of those rare instances where the easier solution is also the better one.
01-23-07, 02:19 PM
#32
development
Gadd - good tip with the spare 12V 10AWG source
^little fun with Paint
for those that can't picture what is going on...
The "L" (blue) wire on the Fuel Pump Relay is now being supplied straight from the battery...oppose to about 5 connectors and the ignition switch
Great Thread Dale!
I have to recommend splicing over soldering as well...I have extensive rewiring projects on my FD (and many others, and many other cars), and have 0 solder joints and 0 failures. Good tooling and use is key, as mentioned. Always "pull" check splices...if a slice is loose and can pull out, better to find out now...also loose splice = HIGH resistance = HEAT...we don't want any fires. Heat shrink is also a good idea in the engine bay, keeps moisture/corrosion out.
^little fun with Paint
for those that can't picture what is going on...
The "L" (blue) wire on the Fuel Pump Relay is now being supplied straight from the battery...oppose to about 5 connectors and the ignition switch
Great Thread Dale!
I have to recommend splicing over soldering as well...I have extensive rewiring projects on my FD (and many others, and many other cars), and have 0 solder joints and 0 failures. Good tooling and use is key, as mentioned. Always "pull" check splices...if a slice is loose and can pull out, better to find out now...also loose splice = HIGH resistance = HEAT...we don't want any fires. Heat shrink is also a good idea in the engine bay, keeps moisture/corrosion out.
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b3delta (03-10-20)
01-23-07, 03:03 PM
#34
development
^will connect to the other side of a fuse that gets power from that spare fuse holder (edited finger point). You have to crimp a spade connector on too the solid blue wire and fit it into the "blank" side of the spare holder.
damn, clear as 3k mile FD engine oil?
damn, clear as 3k mile FD engine oil?
01-23-07, 04:42 PM
#36
As always Dale, A fantastic writeup with pics, Adding to an already superb Website.
Think maybe with the extra grnd i will be doing this mod very soon.
Soon as i sort my AFR and inj map i will log before and after AFR's with my walbro pump and c what diferences it makes, then post results.
Think maybe with the extra grnd i will be doing this mod very soon.
Soon as i sort my AFR and inj map i will log before and after AFR's with my walbro pump and c what diferences it makes, then post results.
01-24-07, 09:12 AM
#37
Indifferent
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
Hey guys, check it out -
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=71&mnu=5
Been meaning to do this for a while.
The stock fuel pump wiring has a pretty good voltage drop. But, you don't have to reinvent the wheel or even add a relay to the system - just giving the stock circuit opening relay more voltage to start with does the trick just fine.
Basically, with some wire and an in-line fuse, you can make this work. Took me about 30 minutes, tops.
Results? I went from 11.8 volts at full throttle with no electrical load to 13.8 volts at full throttle with no electrical load - that's a BIG improvement. The more voltage the fuel pump gets, the better it can maintain fuel pressure at high RPM/high load.
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
Dale
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=71&mnu=5
Been meaning to do this for a while.
The stock fuel pump wiring has a pretty good voltage drop. But, you don't have to reinvent the wheel or even add a relay to the system - just giving the stock circuit opening relay more voltage to start with does the trick just fine.
Basically, with some wire and an in-line fuse, you can make this work. Took me about 30 minutes, tops.
Results? I went from 11.8 volts at full throttle with no electrical load to 13.8 volts at full throttle with no electrical load - that's a BIG improvement. The more voltage the fuel pump gets, the better it can maintain fuel pressure at high RPM/high load.
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
Dale
Thanks for the idiot proof write up. When it comes to electrical issues I am a moron. I have been seeing slowly increasing leaner readings on my wideband for the past couple of years so I am curious as to how rewiring my fuel pump will help me.
One question- did you also clean and rewire the ground near the pump? I recall one forum member(chuck westbrook?) saying this also added a half a volt to the pump.
Thanks again,
John
01-24-07, 10:18 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
^^John - check your fuel pressure readings also. I heard about a guy with similar scenario and his fuel pump was on the way out. He noticed by checking fuel pressure.
John
01-24-07, 09:22 PM
#41
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Is it possible to not cut the blue wire and run a 12v source directly to it anyway as an addition?? I don't think it would backfeed to the ignition system....would it? It just seems like a way to avoid cutting the stock wiring, which I hate to do.
John
John
01-24-07, 09:46 PM
#42
Warming the planet.
Originally Posted by Jodeny
Is it possible to not cut the blue wire and run a 12v source directly to it anyway as an addition?? I don't think it would backfeed to the ignition system....would it? It just seems like a way to avoid cutting the stock wiring, which I hate to do.
John
John
No. The EGI and fuel pump relay would be energized all the time.
Just to clarify, this mod shoud not change your AFRs in any way. If it does you have other problems with your fuel system that need attention. But it does give you a small amount of insurance against going lean at high loads.
Last edited by Gadd; 01-24-07 at 09:56 PM.
01-25-07, 02:23 AM
#44
Wish this thread was made last year when I wired up my pump direct to the battery. This method is soooo much easier instead of running wire inside the the car to the trunk area. I might just rip it all out and use this meth it's alot cleaner. Good stuff Dale.
Jodeny, myself and all of my friends have been using the FJO unit for along time. We all have the pod guage on the pillar and the sensors are great. I have an account with FJO if you need pricing pmme...
Jay7...
Jodeny, myself and all of my friends have been using the FJO unit for along time. We all have the pod guage on the pillar and the sensors are great. I have an account with FJO if you need pricing pmme...
Jay7...
01-25-07, 09:00 AM
#45
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sorry guys i am a bit slow....the blue wire that goes to the relay cut that and use the end running from the relay and crimp a connector on the end and then push that end into the fuse holder is that correct..do u have to add a fuse anywhere..thks
01-25-07, 10:01 AM
#47
Derwin
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Since this is related I am wondering if anyone has tried these products from Eastwood.
I really can't choose which one to go for.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
It seems that the advantage of the last two would be that I can do other things than bleed brakes, aka change tranny and diff fluid ( I don't have a lift so on jack stands I am under the impression that it may make things a little less frustrating).
Thanks in advance for the help,
Alex
I really can't choose which one to go for.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
It seems that the advantage of the last two would be that I can do other things than bleed brakes, aka change tranny and diff fluid ( I don't have a lift so on jack stands I am under the impression that it may make things a little less frustrating).
Thanks in advance for the help,
Alex
01-25-07, 10:03 AM
#48
development
Originally Posted by dradon03
Since this is related I am wondering if anyone has tried these products from Eastwood.
I really can't choose which one to go for.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
It seems that the advantage of the last two would be that I can do other things than bleed brakes, aka change tranny and diff fluid ( I don't have a lift so on jack stands I am under the impression that it may make things a little less frustrating).
Thanks in advance for the help,
Alex
I really can't choose which one to go for.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
It seems that the advantage of the last two would be that I can do other things than bleed brakes, aka change tranny and diff fluid ( I don't have a lift so on jack stands I am under the impression that it may make things a little less frustrating).
Thanks in advance for the help,
Alex
LOL
01-25-07, 10:08 AM
#49
development
Originally Posted by rx7bomex
also which terminal is it thats spare in 1st pic its the last term but in 2nd pic its the 4th
here he is pointing to the "newly added" fuse.