^in not so many words...I'd connect the spade to the blue wire then push it up in the empty slot.

 

What's the difference in performance by doing it this way rather than running a larger gauge wire from the battery and wiring in a relay at the pump?

 

thanks for the diagram that makes it nice and clear

 

My bad completely wrong thread.

 

Anyone?

 

Doesn't use the stock voltage-switching system that depends on load, from what I've read.

 

performance wise??! probably nothing. What you would gain by doing it the way you describe...probably just the weight of wires and relay

I try to keep all wires bundled in a harness...so you don't have random wires just tucked away behind things...more of a chance they get snagged/cut/chaffed.

 

Well, I guess what I'm asking is does this method still lower voltage at idle and increase at WOT or supply a constant voltage all the time?

 

that is correct. This still allows for the two speed set-up. You are right, the method you mentioned does do that.

 

Thanks.

 

damn, I always forget to type contractions...and that makes it hard to get points across.

FIXED

 

So I did it Dale's way and it was very easy. Lowered my duty cycle pretty good as well

 

This was something I wasn't aware of. Thanks Dale and Gadd. I will get mine taken care of right away.

 

It did??? Did you make changes to your Injection map?

Your injector duty cycles are controled by your inj map not the fuel pump.

Your AFRs are controled by the inj map and fuel pressure, and the fuel pressure needs to be controled by the pressure regulator, NOT the pump or any mods related to it. If the pump is changing the pressure you will never be able to tune the fuel map properly.



Paul

 

Gadd,

What kind of connector did you use to connect the wire into your fuse box? I know you said "spade" aka fork connector, but, I can't envision that gripping the lug of the fuse properly. Did you mean quick-disconnect connectors (square lugs), using the female type? If so, which size (Yellow, blue, red)? I'm also concerned about a connector that'll fit with the wire, vs. a connector that'll fit in the fuse block.

Furthermore, I tried some GM terminals that look similar to the stock connector for the fuse, but the wire from the fuel pump is too thick fit in the connector for a crimp. So, i tried soldering it on, and lo and behold, the wire itself it is a bit thick to fit in the fuse block.

A picture is worth a thousand words. If you would be so kind to post a photo of how you terminated the wire, I'd be very grateful.

 

It did slightly tonight. I will have to check on it more though Gadd. I know normally when I boost to 10psi my duty cycle goes up to around 80%. Tonight it was about 73.5% I'll have to run it more though to prove it though.

 

so which is the best method..which one will keep the 2 speeds for the pump

 

Sorry, I think I used the wrong name for the connector.

One of these here thingys:

 

I did this mod as well, although I did it a little bit differently because I hate to cut wires....my wideband readings are showing a full point richer.

 

new project! it doesn't make any difference that I have the battery in the trunk right?

 

LOL

Just use a Power Bleeder, I got one and it's great!

 

doesn't matter...they both do. Either you run your own (fused) wire to the battery or use the one Mazda supplies, and have an actual fuse holder...and less wires run thru the engine bay.

No...except the new wire has a longer 4AWG wire to travel thru to get to the B+ (read slight voltage drop).

 

im currently trying to do this mod GADD's way. shoving up the connector through the fuse block might pose some problems, like for example when you are trying to insert the fuse, won't the connector just slide back down the hole? i'm going back down to the garage to look into it more, hopefully i can get it to work!

 

support the wire/connector while you push the fuse down...once connected it should stay put.

 

This is a great thread, I definitely plan to do this to my apex'i BNR33 pump.

Only problem is, according to Max Cooper's site, the pump is limited to 75 psi by an internal bypass valve. Sucks, b/c if you add base fuel px (40) plus theoretically px drop through system (15), looks like I'm limited to 20 psi with my current setup?