idonaldson

iTrader: (2)

So I have a 94 with a blown engine. Blown engine has been pulled out, along with everything else under the hood so the bay could be primed and repainted to fight a little rust issue. Now that that is all finished, I'm at a crossroads as to whether put my low mileage rebuild in, or sell it and the other blown engine and try and fund a v8 swap. So far it looks like I'll be needing a few gaskets, a hose kit, all the radiator / heater hoses, almost all the vacuum solenoids and a new set of turbos. The turbo wastegate actuator was full of oil when I popped the vacuum line off.

So, I'm sitting here wondering what would be the most cost effective and future proof.
Options at this point:
13B, with twins and simplified sequential.
13B, with twins and non sequential.
Swap to some ls something or a lm7

Currently have about $1600 to spend on parts to get going.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Your most cost effective bet is probably going to be to keep the twins and go simplified sequential. Keep it at or close to stock boost and just do the reliability mods and enjoy it for a while..

idonaldson

iTrader: (2)

Why would you say simplified over non? Reliability sake?

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

My personal opinion is that non-sequential is for people who can't figure out how to make the sequential system work and want a simplified, linear, power delivery but don't feel like spending the money on a single turbo setup.

The power difference between sequential and non-sequential is negligible for a given boost level, however the difference in response is pretty noticeable.

Going non-sequential is basically keeping all the downsides of the twins (heavy as hell, tons of heat in the engine bay, limited boost ceiling) while missing out on the benefits of a single conversion (less heat, higher power, more space in engine bay, etc.).

I dunno, personally if I were to have a set of twins in the engine bay they would be sequential or not at all.

MattGold

iTrader: (108)

I agree with fendamonky. Simplified sequential is the way to go.

idonaldson

iTrader: (2)

I can see that. I'll round up the solenoids tomorrow or Tuesday and see what I need to replace to go simplified. I like the idea of not having to grind on the manifold as well.

Other than looking at the fins of the turbine wheels, how else can I check if this set is blown or usable?

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

Check for side to side shaft play and in/out play. Excessive side to side can indicate bearing wear and any in/out is bad.