Need info on removing clip from heater return disconnect
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 422
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Need info on removing clip from heater return disconnect
Had the return heater hose replaced yesterday, they used a worm clamp instead of stock, apparently cracking the plastic connect which failed tonight a block from home.
Do you push, pull or pry the little guys clip to get it off?
For the record searching has occured that's how I found out about the metal clip.
Do you push, pull or pry the little guys clip to get it off?
For the record searching has occured that's how I found out about the metal clip.
It's not well documented. Many people simply break the old one off then replace with a new part. The trick is using (I think) a 22mm open end wrench - push it against the two tabs and it will slide off.
Some people elect to ditch that connector entirely and just hose clamp the hose straight to the metal pipe coming from the block. While that works, you get a MUCH better fit with the adapter, and it spaces the rubber hose farther from the block. Oil from the oil filter drips on the hose during an oil change and degrades the hose over time - with the spacer, it hits the spacer instead. Sounds goofy, but ask any FC owner - FC's go through heater hoses like CANDY because of this.
Here's your neat-o-keen trick of the day Jeff H taught me (Turbojeff) - you can get that quick disconnect connector in the Help! section at the auto parts store of all places. I prefer the OEM part, but if you want something quick, that's one way to do it.
Funny thing is there's nothing quick about that connector - it's tricky to install and remove. Beats me as to the real purpose behind the design - it might have made motor installs at the factory faster or something.
Good luck,
Dale
Some people elect to ditch that connector entirely and just hose clamp the hose straight to the metal pipe coming from the block. While that works, you get a MUCH better fit with the adapter, and it spaces the rubber hose farther from the block. Oil from the oil filter drips on the hose during an oil change and degrades the hose over time - with the spacer, it hits the spacer instead. Sounds goofy, but ask any FC owner - FC's go through heater hoses like CANDY because of this.
Here's your neat-o-keen trick of the day Jeff H taught me (Turbojeff) - you can get that quick disconnect connector in the Help! section at the auto parts store of all places. I prefer the OEM part, but if you want something quick, that's one way to do it.
Funny thing is there's nothing quick about that connector - it's tricky to install and remove. Beats me as to the real purpose behind the design - it might have made motor installs at the factory faster or something.
Good luck,
Dale
I just break off the plastic and put the hose on the metal tube .I have not seen one degrade from oil falling on the hose but if Dale says it is so then listen to him .Maybe tiewrap a sheet metal piece around the hose for protection .Next time I get under my car I sure will check the hose and cover it with something to keep any spilled oil off of it .Thanks Dale for the heads up .
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 42
From: Kennewick, Washington
My buddy has an FC and I can confirm the oil degrading the heater hose. this will start out as a small leak. the prior owner had put the quik silver stuff in there to patch up the hole as much as possible. it worked temporarily. but when it went, it went QUICKLY!
Oil + Rubber = Bad. Always. might not be in 10 or even 50k miles, but it will happen. Plus, once the oil drips on the hose, it will settle on the bottom... hanging droplets, and will make the rubber weakest at the least visible point.
Oil + Rubber = Bad. Always. might not be in 10 or even 50k miles, but it will happen. Plus, once the oil drips on the hose, it will settle on the bottom... hanging droplets, and will make the rubber weakest at the least visible point.
Originally Posted by car hugger
Thanks to both Dale Clark and Garco Motorworks. I'll break it off and secure the hose while I wait for Ray at Malloy to send me a new piece.
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yep, i have had to replace tons of those coolant lines on FCs which is why i always try to keep one of those hoses in stock at all times for emergency purposes. the best way to eliminate the issue is to do careful and clean oil changes, i always cover the hose with a shop rag when i remove the filter and always clean the area well after i'm done to keep oil from soaking into the hose.
you can remove the quick connector with most generic fuel line quick disconnect tools, the connector kit comes with various size fittings and should work fine and is what i use but you may have to modify the plastic tool slightly to get it to work ok.
i think what i had to do to modify the tool was cut the head off the appropriate size fitting and use the next size smaller one to butt up behind it and put pressure on it while you slide off the connector.
you can remove the quick connector with most generic fuel line quick disconnect tools, the connector kit comes with various size fittings and should work fine and is what i use but you may have to modify the plastic tool slightly to get it to work ok.
i think what i had to do to modify the tool was cut the head off the appropriate size fitting and use the next size smaller one to butt up behind it and put pressure on it while you slide off the connector.
Maybe it is just me, but I pride myself on keeping the little details like these stock pieces. In my opinion it is just laziness and ghetto to not use/replace the insulator fitting.
Needing to replace this coolant connector on my FD.
Last edited by karsty; Feb 14, 2022 at 07:44 AM.
When I went in to my local Mazda dealership, the 20 year parts guy couldn't find the connector in his parts diagrams. He wasn't sure what I was talking about. So if anyone has an actual part number for this it would be helpful. I also don't have a Ford part number to reference. More than happy to get a good quality OEM piece no matter the manufacturer.
Mazda PN is B45561240A.
Reference diagram here: https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...category=20231
Reference diagram here: https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...category=20231
Don't bother with your dealership. You'll get the run around and if they can get it you'll be charged a VERY high premium.
Ray Crowe is the guy you want, his contact info is on the forum. He will get you the right part and a fair price. He knows every inch of these cars and can get you the right thing with a description.
Dale
Ray Crowe is the guy you want, his contact info is on the forum. He will get you the right part and a fair price. He knows every inch of these cars and can get you the right thing with a description.
Dale
Like a n AC line or Ford fuel disconnect
The inner clip presses outward, and the fitting pops off (two inner O rings) similar to a quick disconnect on Fords or your hvac. Lost my tool, so I used two hook pics
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. Ford sells it cheaper, the "Help" section in your local auto part store sells it cheaper yet.

