Removing the heater hose that goes under oil filter
#1
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Removing the heater hose that goes under oil filter
Hey...
I posted about a week ago because the hose that connects to the block under the oil filter was leaking coolant (this hose is all bendy and stuff, goes from the block to the firewall)
Ordered a new one from Mazdatrix, got it a few days ago, and had some free time today so I decided to swap it out...
So I got the part off the block, but the part that goes into the firewall will not come out, theres just not enough room to get in there and pull the sucker out..
Its moving very very little, I was wondering if there is anything special to get that end out, or does it need to be cut etc?
My hands are bleeding I've been trying for like 20 mins, any tips or help are greatly appreciated
any tips on how to get the replacement hose installed are also welcome
thanks guys
I posted about a week ago because the hose that connects to the block under the oil filter was leaking coolant (this hose is all bendy and stuff, goes from the block to the firewall)
Ordered a new one from Mazdatrix, got it a few days ago, and had some free time today so I decided to swap it out...
So I got the part off the block, but the part that goes into the firewall will not come out, theres just not enough room to get in there and pull the sucker out..
Its moving very very little, I was wondering if there is anything special to get that end out, or does it need to be cut etc?
My hands are bleeding I've been trying for like 20 mins, any tips or help are greatly appreciated
any tips on how to get the replacement hose installed are also welcome
thanks guys
#3
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Be very careful with the firewall side- the heater core pipe there is very soft, and will easily crush if manhandled with tools...Since you have a new one, just get an exacto knife (or razor blade) and VERY CAREFULLY cut a lengthwise slit from the end of the hose, to the end of the joggle on the internal pipe (probably about 2"). Try not to make any marks into the pipe, or the new one will leak. It should pop right off after the cut is through the hose material. For the new one, I always use black RTV for sealing purposes on all my new hose connections (also helps the hose "slip" on easier, just don't let the RTV cure first, lol). The major drawback to this is that if/when the hose needs to come back off, it will be a PITA and will need to be cut. The major advantage to this, is that no more coolant "slips by" at the hose-to-barb coonection internally, which puts a stop to the corrosion on the barbs. RTV will also effectively seal any imperfections (corrosion "bumps", scratches, etc...)...
#4
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Just as a side note... if you have not ever replaced this hose yet, please do so. Two of my cars in the last month have split this hose. I believe it is a combination of old age, oil deteriorating the hose, and the crappy two-band clamps that Mazda uses. Luckily when both these hoses split it did not do any damage to the engine.
Anyways, this hose is not very expensive. And if it does split, it will dump your coolant in a matter of a minute or two. If you go to a NAPA place to get the hose, the one that they list is not the right one. They have to look it up in the hose replacement catalog and if I remember correctly, the part number is 10490.
Anyways, this hose is not very expensive. And if it does split, it will dump your coolant in a matter of a minute or two. If you go to a NAPA place to get the hose, the one that they list is not the right one. They have to look it up in the hose replacement catalog and if I remember correctly, the part number is 10490.
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I finally got the pipe off, there was some adhesive on there which was making getting it off such a PITA...now thats it off..
The pipe looks weird, its..crushed, like wayne88 said...picture the circular end of it stickin out, then pinch two sides so the middle-top is shut off, and the bottom has a tiny opening, I know its not supposed to look like that and I tried bending it back out but its not budging....what should I do??
On a side and not as important note, what is RTV?
The pipe looks weird, its..crushed, like wayne88 said...picture the circular end of it stickin out, then pinch two sides so the middle-top is shut off, and the bottom has a tiny opening, I know its not supposed to look like that and I tried bending it back out but its not budging....what should I do??
On a side and not as important note, what is RTV?
Last edited by MirageJHU; 08-13-04 at 11:50 AM.
#6
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
Originally Posted by AcidShock
Just as a side note... if you have not ever replaced this hose yet, please do so. Two of my cars in the last month have split this hose. I believe it is a combination of old age, oil deteriorating the hose, and the crappy two-band clamps that Mazda uses. Luckily when both these hoses split it did not do any damage to the engine.
Anyways, this hose is not very expensive. And if it does split, it will dump your coolant in a matter of a minute or two. If you go to a NAPA place to get the hose, the one that they list is not the right one. They have to look it up in the hose replacement catalog and if I remember correctly, the part number is 10490.
Anyways, this hose is not very expensive. And if it does split, it will dump your coolant in a matter of a minute or two. If you go to a NAPA place to get the hose, the one that they list is not the right one. They have to look it up in the hose replacement catalog and if I remember correctly, the part number is 10490.
#7
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RTV is a siicone rubber. On this site it is mostly used for making gaskets. Any auto store or hardware store stocks it. Go to your local auto store and ask where they keep their tubes of RTV. Buy a tube. Play with it. Think DowCorning when you think of RTV. Maybe even GE.
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RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing = silicone sealant.
The heater nipple sounds FUBAR.
Good luck rounding it back enough to get a good seal on the hose (even with RTV).
The heater nipple sounds FUBAR.
Good luck rounding it back enough to get a good seal on the hose (even with RTV).
#9
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Yep, you're definetly gonna need some, because you'll never get it back to perfectly round, and the RTV will help fill in the "gaps"...
This is also a good time to tell everyone of a "trick" I've learned- use the same black RTV to cover that 4 or 5" section of that hose that meets with the engine nipple. Put a good coating around the entire circumference right after installing the hose, before the clamp gets in the way, and this will prevent any oil drips from saturating the new hose for quite a long time...
GE makes the best stuff, IMO...get black, or red...
This is also a good time to tell everyone of a "trick" I've learned- use the same black RTV to cover that 4 or 5" section of that hose that meets with the engine nipple. Put a good coating around the entire circumference right after installing the hose, before the clamp gets in the way, and this will prevent any oil drips from saturating the new hose for quite a long time...
GE makes the best stuff, IMO...get black, or red...
#10
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I have to wait til my friend gets back to go the auto store...
Basically I should bend back what I can, fill the crumples with this miracle goo, slide the hose on and pray?
If I get a crappy seal, won't coolant come leaking out?
Gah this sucks, now I'm in a crappy mood....
Basically I should bend back what I can, fill the crumples with this miracle goo, slide the hose on and pray?
If I get a crappy seal, won't coolant come leaking out?
Gah this sucks, now I'm in a crappy mood....
#11
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Lol, it'll be all right, man...Get the pipe as round as you can...Put enough RTV on there so that when you slide the new hose on (keep it as straight going on as you can), any RTV that's not fiiling a void will be pushed out of the way, but any that's filling a bad spot will remain & seal everything up. It WON'T leak if done correctly, trust me- just make sure to let it cure for a while (at least 30 min.) before putting pressurized coolant on it...
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