rotary.works

iTrader: (2)

I know i typed alot. Im trying to be as informative as i can. I guess my problem began when I had a coolant leak by my turbos. The motor was bone stock and I took pretty much everything apart. I decided while I was fixing that leak I might as well replace all the other coolant hoses and vac lines one at a time. Turns out they all needed it anyway.
I also instaled dual intakes, fmic, bov, a koyo rad. And battery relocation. After I got it running and ideling fine. I took it for a test drive down my block n sprung a boost leak (cracked charge pipe coupler). While it sat I got a banzai "block off plate kit" to do a non sequential & vac line simplifacation. I wire tied the waste gates open instead of welding them open. & everything is back together now
?-it idles fine. but when I drive it it starts sputtering and backfiering @ around 3500 rpm and doesn't boost & won't rev higher than that. I don't have a check engine light throwing codes.-?
One guy told me its an ecu problem if it wont rev. Not a turbo problem. Like a limp mode or something. But I honestly have no idea.
So Does any know whats going on? Or has any one experianced this before?

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

If you wired tied the wastegate open you will not get any boost.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

You are in limp mode because you didnt install the resistors in the wiring harness when performing the non-sequential conversion. You need 330 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors installed in the rats nest connectors and then unplug the battery for 10 seconds and hook it back up, you will be out of limp mode.

Of course this is an assumption but I am fairly confident this is the problem, the car is definitely in limp mode. If you deleted the OMP or have a knock sensor problem and still on the stock ecu these are also possibilities. However, it is DEFINITELY limp mode.

rotary.works

iTrader: (2)

so is it absolutly nessessary to take the turbos off? I tried doing a poor mans/ propped conversion so it can be reversable. Does the waste need to be welded open?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The wastegate? No.

You need to have the precontrol and turbo control both open.

rotary.works

iTrader: (2)

I've been reading other posts from people who have done it, and I didn't read anything abt resistors. Some peeps tie the gates open and some weld them. Does anyone know of a link that shows good pics and a step-step nonsequential because that would be perfect right abt now. My fd's been sitting for almost a year since that 1st coolant leak I wanna drive it.

rotary.works

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry I was being dumb when typed this. The turbo precontroll has a banzai bop and turbo control is wired open. "The waste gate is left alone" sry!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Not really with pictures, but basically has all the information you should need:

http://www.fd3s.net/non-sequential.html

As for the resistors, the stock ECU looks for resistance across the solenoids. If you remove them, the ECU throws a code. Most of the codes based on emissions are harmless. However, there are a few for the turbo system which will throw the car into limp mode if they are not there. The other option is to get a standalone ECU like the PFC.

rotary.works

iTrader: (2)

these resistors? Where do they go in the rats nest. And are the resistors needed if I use a power fc?

djseven

iTrader: (56)

If you run a Power FC you do NOT need the resistors, stock ecu or any variance(M2, pettit, etc) require them. You can pick them up at radioshack for $1.99 for a pack of 5, you will need 8 total. It takes about 15 minutes to install them, you can get detailed and solder them in or just use some male spade connectors and plug them into the colored connectors on the harness. If you do not have them and are on stock ecu then that is definitely your problem.

rotary.works

iTrader: (2)

I have a pfc, & a profec but I was hoping to get it running right on stock boost 1st b4 I plug it in. Its pre tuned from rx7store. I guess I'll plug it in & put the boost controller on right now. And see how it goes

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Well you will remove the boost restrictor pill going to the wastegate when you install the profec. Just set the profec on the lowest boost setting which should give you around 8-9lbs and this will be safe to run on and you wont have to worry about limp mode.

Also make sure you research the install on teh PFC so you know what 4 wires to cut and how to set the idle.