Just got done with a rebuild, and now the engine is stalling when i give it gas. its hard to start, and idles rough until it warms up, and if i try to give it gas itll stall out on me. any ideas? im thinking electrical, and it sounds like a timing issue but im not completely sure.

 

did you go through the idle procedure? idle screws, tps, etc...

 

to an extent, i checked the idle screws and tps, but it sounds a little like a timing issue

 

oh and which way is the tps supposed to point? the plug on mine is pointed towards the passenger side and the siring is opposite what it should be from the how to adjust the tps guide i found

 

frustration bump

 

ran an engine diagnostic, threw me codes for the TPS, OMP, Relief solenoid 2 and EGR valve, got a tps on order, the OMP is being difficult ive checked the wiring and such, but ive had no luck... can anyone let me know that the wiring pattern on the six prong plug is? how i have it now is
B - R/w - Y
W - R - L

I believe that this may be a jspec engine as the previous owner blew out the engine a year ago and replaced it, and considering the error codes im getting regarding the egr and relief 2 solenoid it does make sense. any help would be appreciated

 

TPS should be pointed to the drivers side.
If you have PFC, check the voltage on VTA1 and VTA2.

My TPS was damaged during shipping of the engine and same thing was happening to me.

 

If you have a stock ecu than that OMP code (22 i think) will have you in limp mode.

 

ive still got the stock ecu, and i checked the voltage for the tps and its waaaaaaaaay off. also the fins that move the spring inside the tps are pointed horizontally while the fins on the tps are pointed vertically so the throttle isnt even making contact with the tps until over 50% throttle, correct me if im wrong, but this is wrong i think. there are two codes for the oil pump when i checked and im getting code 23 OMP is open/short. Im not sure if this has something to do with it, but when i pulled the engine out the wires were cut, but i soldered them back together correctly and re-insulated them with some liquid electrical tape, it doesnt sound like that could cause that error, but i could be wrong. I checked with a dealer in my area and they say a new OMP;will run me $300 and change but i would prefer not to have to spend the money if this is just a wiring problem.

thanks for the help btw, this car is slowly starting to drive me crazy, but i know itll be worth it when its finally running again.

 

Dont buy parts from your dealer buy them from Ray Crowe cause he is literally the MAN! Also you can find tons of used OMPs in the classified section. wouldnt hurt to premix a little bit also because those OMPs are shady to say the least.

 

Yes, breaking the wires will cause code 23. Mine got caught in the belt and I re-soldered them still got the code. I bought a used OMP here on the forum for $40 and just plugging it in will clear the code 23. Your going to be stuck in limp mode until you get that fixed. Best of luck !!

 

You'd need to check the continuity from the OMP to the ECU. You may have some other wires damaged which are contributing to the problem. It's also possible that the repair is throwing off the ECU readings with some added resistance.

 

what resistance values are within spec?

 

Have you checked the FSM?

 

i did, but i guess i missed a page... in any case i think i found the problem. The sensor has full connectivity, however the pump portion is missing continuity in two of the wires. the ECU pins are 4J, and 4K. so now if im not mistaken i get to pull out everything and open up the wiring harness to find the break right?