I need some help with my car, it's idle is at 3-4k rpm.

It all started when I was messing with the Throttle Body to resolve a minor idle problem and decided to swap in my my old TB and removed the TPS. During all the TB madness i had quite a bit of coolant spilling everywhere.

At first I thought that the TPS was completely out of wack, but my friend came and I put his TB on with a correctly set TPS...no luck, still had 3-4k rpm idle.

During the last few months, my car's battery was dying constantly and not holding charge.

Right now my guesses on the extremely high idle are:

-bad alternator - i heard the car acts strange when this goes out

-shorted harness side of TPS

-blown lower intake manifold gasket (i do not know how this could have happened)


I put in my stock ECU but it still did the same thing. I still have to check the engine codes, but any thoughts on what the problem could be, or any comments on the above guesses would be greatly apreciated. I need to get my car up and running ASAP as I just got hired near FT in Los Angeles

I also need to know how to correctly check my harness for signal.

ahhh the 3rd gen...god bless the finicky bastard

 

Have you try adjusting the idle screw? Is the throttle cable that connects to the TB arm lose enough? I would check those things first.

 

I also forgot to mention, when i step on the gas, the car practically dies.

Throttle cable is loose, but I havent messed with the idle screw since I figured since my friend's TB off a perfectly running/idling FD eliminated that possibility.

Im gonna check the diagnostic codes right now because this problem is stressing me out =P

edit:

checked codes

long list
12
18
20
27
32 or 33
44
45
71
73

looks like a good part of the harness got fried... not good

 

sorry for double post

I think this eliminates the possibility of UIM and alternator

now the big question is what would cause such a huge catastrophical failure of the engine harness.

 

it probably has something to do with the massive heat and thw stock twins that are in that FD engine bay. go back to the FC my friend!
(just kidding man. hell, i'd love to have an R1)

 

Actually, I do have an 86 GXL sitting in my garage. I just have to put the engine in it. Bought it for 200 bucks... can't beat that!

To get back on topic...

Is it possible to repair whatever is wrong with the engine harness by myself?

((Hose Job)*20)/process of elimination

I've been 0wn3d by rotary. I just got a job that pays decently, but my car took a **** on me My friend will sell me his 89 240sx coupe for 1400 but I need to work for a month...but have no means to get there. Rock and a hard place. I am 0wn3d.

 

damn dude, well i have to put my turbo2 back together before i drive back to school on the 13th so i'm almost in the same boat.

i'd say just get a new wiring harness... its going to be a huge bitch to track down and fix all the little parts of your fucked harness. it may even be easier to install a new one.

 

This might sound lame, but just in case you havent checked it, some people on this forum a while ago laughed to find that their cruise control cable being pinched, causing the high idle. That harness swap doesnt sound like fun.

 

no cruise control on R1, if only it could be so simple...aiya

I'd take LIM gasket replacement any day over wiring harness swap

my car is building up quite a rap sheet

 

doh!

 

Garfinkle unwrapped his wiring harness(engine ) to find a broken wire. He said it took a volt ohm meter , the factory book and a lot of time. He rewraped the thing with fiberglass tape (sticky side out ) and black eletrical tape. The sticky side out lets the wires move when you bend or curve the harness back in place.

 

tomorrow im gonna go look at the harness a little closer and look for a large chunk of snapped off wires.

the volt ohm meter is to make sure that the sensor itself is still working im assuming

 

Well, didn't have a chance to take a look under the UIM. Any tips on repairing the harness?

 

If your wiring harness is all ripped up and exposed, they could short out certian componets in your car. I suggest finding a replacement in that case, or if your cheap go buy some electrical tape and go thru every single one and reconnect and shield them...... hours of fun

 

My car had the same problem after I put my motor back in. For me the lower butterfly of the three was getting stuck open. The adjustment screw on the right hand side of the throttle body wasn't letting it close all the way. So I backed it off a little and the idle drop to around 1300-1500. That is where I am at right now. Hopefully that helps

 

but you're not getting any codes are you?

 

heres the list of engine codes that its throwing

12 Throttle sensor - full range
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
27 Metering oil pump
32 or 33 32 Solenoid valve - switching 33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary

 

The thing is, he borrowed a complete TB setup from a friend that was working great on this friend's car, but it didn't solve his problems and he could still start the car without the throttle cable attached! I thought the same thing about maybe it's the cruise, or maybe the throttle springs came loose and it's staying open ... but he can start the car without any throttle cables attached to either TB and it idles near 4000. So I figured he's getting a large vacuum pull elsewhere ... possibly from the UIM (initially I thought maybe a sensor came out leaving a hole), UIM/LIM joint, or LIM. He's going to try a number of things like block off the air into the TB by capping the elbow and make sure it still starts that way with or without throttle cable ... and that'll definitely mean a vacuum pull somewhere. He doesn't have an air pump so he's going to check his blockoff plates and make sure they're secure. And I'm thinking really what he should do is get something aerosol that he can see that won't harm the motor and spray it while it runs and see if there's a pull somewhere ... like starter fluid? I realize it's ether so it's probably best to only do it to a cold motor. Pretty much anything that will fit this bill will be flammable and dangerous with a warm motor. Anyone have a take on this?

I know I rambled and thought aloud ... Mike wanted me to post so he'd get some more responses.

 

If the butterflies are closed (look to varify) than you have a big vac. leak. Maybe the valve that controls your cold start is sticking try pinching off or blocking the cold start hose by the back of the throttle body.