3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old 12-03-09, 11:36 AM
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need gurus help cant figure this out

car still idling high, started it up, let it idle for about 10 to 15 mins and it started to idle pretty smoothly (but at 2k rpm), then it just starts to hiccup between 2.1k and 1.8k rpm .. i let it run for another 5 mins thinking it would learn to idle .. got out the car noticed puddle of water on the floor, overflow tank is spitting out water and lots of smoke from turbo area

what are symptoms of bad turbos? could bad turbos cause high idling? is this indicative of something more serious?

i took a video of it if this helps

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzN79tD9oqI
Attached Thumbnails need gurus help cant figure this out-cimg2565.jpg  
Old 12-03-09, 12:11 PM
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Are you sure the coolant is coming out of the overflow tank? If so, you may have pinched a coolant seal during your rebuild assembly.

Check the turbos and make sure the coolant banjo bolts aren't leaking. You are going to have to see what's burning in that area.
Old 12-03-09, 05:35 PM
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Leaking coolant would not cause the high idle. What mods does the car have? PFC?
Old 12-03-09, 06:11 PM
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From what I remember you've starting about 175 threads in the last year while you were attempting to install your new engine.

Who built the engine?

I think you posted the wrong video btw. that seems to be a still shot of your engine bay, car not running.
Old 12-03-09, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Who built the engine?
He did himself: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/question-engine-assembly-851708/
Old 12-03-09, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Are you sure the coolant is coming out of the overflow tank? If so, you may have pinched a coolant seal during your rebuild assembly.

Check the turbos and make sure the coolant banjo bolts aren't leaking. You are going to have to see what's burning in that area.
yes .. im pretty sure .. its coming out the overflow tank
Old 12-03-09, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
From what I remember you've starting about 175 threads in the last year while you were attempting to install your new engine.

Who built the engine?

I think you posted the wrong video btw. that seems to be a still shot of your engine bay, car not running.
sorry for the amount of threads, its been a long and very high learning curve for me as i have not had any mechanical background and this is the most massive project ive done with the car
yes its a still shot of the car i turned it off cause i was worried something was seriously wrong with it, the idling rpms were hiccuping before i turned it off
Old 12-04-09, 02:13 AM
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Try loosening your throttle cable all the way, I had a friend that had a problem like that.
Old 12-04-09, 05:36 AM
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When the car is cold, try starting it with the coolant filler cap off. Once it's running, observe the coolant and report back.
Old 12-08-09, 09:53 PM
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the coolant seems to be normal, just sits there no bubbles and it pretty much stays at same level

i have one of those burping systems, should i connect it and run the car and record it?
Old 12-09-09, 11:35 AM
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Like said above, are you sure the throttle cable isnt slightly cracking the butterflys open? Or is your throttle stop set to high? Or is the idle screw under the tb set to high?

Also, did you follow the correct coolant filling process? Running an ast?
Old 12-09-09, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cgotto6
Like said above, are you sure the throttle cable isnt slightly cracking the butterflys open? Or is your throttle stop set to high? Or is the idle screw under the tb set to high?

Also, did you follow the correct coolant filling process? Running an ast?
ive adjusted the screw and the air screw under the elbow .. the cable seems loose like it has some give so i dont believe its pulling it open .. i am running ast removal mod
Old 12-09-09, 09:22 PM
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I seem to recall my thermopellet being stuck causing the idle to be higher than normal. May want to check on the back side of the throttle body.
Old 12-14-09, 03:38 AM
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there are 2 throttle stops. the one that is vertical and an actual screw adjusts the bottom throttle plate and affects the TPS voltage. the second one is horizontal and doesnt have a head. it adjusts the top 2 plates and has no effect on TPS voltage. make sure both are adjusted.

I recently did a vac simplification and emissions/air pump removal, and afterwards I had a strange idle problem. This is exactly what I did to fix mine, it should work for you.

Disconnect the ISC, it is the white connector on the back side of the UIM/TB.
I would suggest backing the vertical adjustment screw all the way out (make sure you lock it in place, or the vibration from the engine will drive it in, prevent the throttle plates from closing, and leave the engine in a very high rpm).

then turn the Bleed screw under the TB about 2 turns out (this will give you room to adjust the idle slightly higer or lower later).

start the motor and adjust the horizontal adjustment screw untill your idle is near where you would like it, or slightely higher, as you can lower it with the bleed screw later. I would suggest setting it around 750 or so, with A/C and all electronics off, as the ISC will raise idle to compensate for the A/C and electronics.

This should help you get your idle in check. I would check your TPS voltages while your at it. if that isnt tight, it will vibrate loose and cause all sorts of problems. Hope this helps.
Old 12-14-09, 07:26 AM
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Pop the elbow and check the throttle body. When my turbo's were dying, they dumped a lot of oil in the inlet. This then clogged up all the idle control gubbins, and I was left with a weird idle that randomly got higher and higher. Was idling at 2.5k at one point.
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