Another blown engine thread
#1
Another blown engine thread
Well after the 1st. blown engine, which was about 7 months ago, it blew again. Follow this:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/blew-engine-4-000-miles-813194/
Friend was driving the car last night, I totaly trust him and he doesnt abuse it. He said he revved it to 7K went to shift and it shut down. He tried to start it and it whins. Same noise when it blew last time. I'm pretty sure it dead cause I went to get a compression check after the 2nd. rebuild and they said they that rotors were in bad shape.
It's time to take legal action. I'm not paying 5k for antoher rebuild 2 in one year. Come on!
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/blew-engine-4-000-miles-813194/
Friend was driving the car last night, I totaly trust him and he doesnt abuse it. He said he revved it to 7K went to shift and it shut down. He tried to start it and it whins. Same noise when it blew last time. I'm pretty sure it dead cause I went to get a compression check after the 2nd. rebuild and they said they that rotors were in bad shape.
It's time to take legal action. I'm not paying 5k for antoher rebuild 2 in one year. Come on!
#5
Mr. Links
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Considering your past threads, it seemed the car was not exactly right and probably shouldn't have been driven too hard quite yet.
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#13
Needs a tune
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Killeen TX
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While I have no personnel dealings with Pettit Racing, I have only heard good things about them. Did you talk to them about the issue? I think the least they could do is break down the engine and tell you WHY is blew, ofcourse if your issue resides in their work you may want to take it to a third party and go from there. Mahkik is right though, from a legal perspective you would have to prove mechanical fault that was cause by their engine build, that whole innoccent until proven guilty thing. I also agree that since you added the Meth it makes it harder to win for your side. Regardless of whether meth only helps or not you added a variable and that changes things. Good luck though.
#14
I dont care..
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Please tell us;
* the exact details of the mods you did. Ie what amount of meth is added when.
*Your break in process
*Service history in the last 2k miles.
* the exact details of the mods you did. Ie what amount of meth is added when.
*Your break in process
*Service history in the last 2k miles.
#16
mods were PFC, twin power, 550/1600, walbro, 500R, 4 " straight through, greddy boost controller, meth was the stock large nozzle on the cool mist vari. cool stage 3 from RX-7 store. straying not full till 8psi.
break in. was babying it 500 miles not above 4K. change oil. 1,000 mile 5K rpm. change oil. All off boost 1500 miles 6 psi. 6K rpm. 2,000 full break in. I went to the dealership to get a compression check and they showed me how the engine was weak!! So right there proves that it was a bad build, that was before I put the meth. in.
Im not sure about service history? What do you mean?
break in. was babying it 500 miles not above 4K. change oil. 1,000 mile 5K rpm. change oil. All off boost 1500 miles 6 psi. 6K rpm. 2,000 full break in. I went to the dealership to get a compression check and they showed me how the engine was weak!! So right there proves that it was a bad build, that was before I put the meth. in.
Im not sure about service history? What do you mean?
#18
Rotor Nut.
iTrader: (34)
you must have a fuel problem somewhere then. what type of fuel pressure regulator?
as for driving style you should redline your motor every time you drive it. at least once. its not bad for the motor to spin up. redlining it keeps the motor carbon to a minimum. i have pulled apart an engine that was carbon locked because it was only driven at 4k or less rpms all the time. nothing wrong with spinning your motor up to 8k rpms.
do you know exactly what broke in the last motor? also who ported the side plates?
as for driving style you should redline your motor every time you drive it. at least once. its not bad for the motor to spin up. redlining it keeps the motor carbon to a minimum. i have pulled apart an engine that was carbon locked because it was only driven at 4k or less rpms all the time. nothing wrong with spinning your motor up to 8k rpms.
do you know exactly what broke in the last motor? also who ported the side plates?
#20
Yes I have the results on paper, no I didn't go back to him, but I DID call him and tell him about the results and he said its just cause of the port.
fuel pressure regulator: Aeromotive, I was thinking maybe the fuel pump died. But if it did the car will shut down. And not blow the engine. It will at least start no? and then stall. I think the apex seal went out the last time, and cam did the port this time around.
fuel pressure regulator: Aeromotive, I was thinking maybe the fuel pump died. But if it did the car will shut down. And not blow the engine. It will at least start no? and then stall. I think the apex seal went out the last time, and cam did the port this time around.
#21
Rotor Nut.
iTrader: (34)
aeromotive is a good unit. i would consider buying a fuel pressure guage in cabin which is electronic. more expensive but worth it. also a full time wideband. at this point after 2 motors i wouldnt consider it a bad build. pettit builds and tunes very well. something is causing you to go lean here.
#22
I have a full time wide band in the car, no fuel pressure gauge though in the car. I know the guy is like the rotor God he is great. Just cant get it why they blew so easily. I see these cars on dynos making 400+ hp, at 17psi and mine blows at 8?
Thanks for the input guys, passing out now, have to wake up early for work tomorrow.
Thanks for the input guys, passing out now, have to wake up early for work tomorrow.
#24
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
My 2 cents:
1. Verify for sure the engine is damaged/blown
2. If #1 checks out, contact Cam immediately and see what he says
Cam is pretty good with working with customers when they are in a jam even when it's not necessarily Pettit's responsibility. If it is blown, it's time to figure out what is going on with your setup. Given some of your past threads like this one:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/im-baffled-873953/
something is/was going on with your car... Whether that's ignition, fuel, engine build or something else, I don't know but the car obviously wasn't running properly. If you find out the engine is toast and you believe Pettit is at fault, talk to a lawyer. I don't really see a case here, but I'm not a lawyer so speak to a professional. However I would figure out what's going on before crying foul.
1. Verify for sure the engine is damaged/blown
2. If #1 checks out, contact Cam immediately and see what he says
Cam is pretty good with working with customers when they are in a jam even when it's not necessarily Pettit's responsibility. If it is blown, it's time to figure out what is going on with your setup. Given some of your past threads like this one:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/im-baffled-873953/
something is/was going on with your car... Whether that's ignition, fuel, engine build or something else, I don't know but the car obviously wasn't running properly. If you find out the engine is toast and you believe Pettit is at fault, talk to a lawyer. I don't really see a case here, but I'm not a lawyer so speak to a professional. However I would figure out what's going on before crying foul.
#25
Eh
iTrader: (56)
So you want to take legal action on a car with a aftermarket ecu, modified engine, aftermarket fuel kit, aftermarket turbo, aftermarket meth injection kit, damn near aftermarket everything on the most unreliable car made in the history of the automotive world? If I was the builder of the engine I would rebuild the engine labor free but you would still have to pay for the parts and rebuild kit. Anytime an engine is ran with an aftermarket ECU you are taking a risk. You are asking an engine that made 255hp from the factory to make near double that and want it to be dead on reliable? This is part of playing the game, seems there is an issue somewhere in the setup causing your failure and you want to place blame anywhere you can to avoid having to come out of pocket.
"Shifting at 5k everytime is bad for the engine?" Good lord, most people shift between 2700-3500 rpms.
Take a deep breath and figure out the issue that is causing the failure. Pettit didnt tune it the first time and it failed, they tuned it this time and it failed. Common sense would say there is another problem somewhere in the setup.
Just my opinion, good luck either way.
"Shifting at 5k everytime is bad for the engine?" Good lord, most people shift between 2700-3500 rpms.
Take a deep breath and figure out the issue that is causing the failure. Pettit didnt tune it the first time and it failed, they tuned it this time and it failed. Common sense would say there is another problem somewhere in the setup.
Just my opinion, good luck either way.