I used aluminum and steel from lowes. It is quite strong and relatively easy to work with. I was able to manipulate it with a vice, anvil, small sledge, and vice grips. I saw no reason to make the brackets more complicated, they should really be a pretty straight forward and easy thing to fab (and they were).

The problem with just flipping the radiator over and running long hoses is you begin to run into clearance issues with the fans and also the ground depending on how low your car sits. Really I would not want a rad hose running that low to the ground and exposed that much even with a stock height car... Too dangerous.

The endtanks need the separator in there b/c if not then fluid will take the easiest route and this would be to just travel from the input across the top of the radiator and out the other side. The separator forces the coolant down through the radiator to the lower (now fully closed) end tank, and back up the other side and out of the newly constructed upper end tank. Allowing the coolant to cool and serving its purpose (ulitmately now cooling the engine).

Hopefully this answers your question. Short answer: Yes, unfortuneately they do need to be that complicated to work in a properly designed vmount.

This is really why all the vmount kits are so expensive. The fab time and cost of welding the radiator. If I had to pay someone to weld I would have just purchased one from rx7store.

Yeah, I have not had AC on the car for over two years. My car is not a DD so I ditched it. PS is also about to disappear... Yeah, with that 3row you will have less room to work and I bet a more horizontal fit. I was happy with the angle I was able to set mine at. It allows for great airflow with little resistance. It will be even better once I install a vented hood.

 

pretty sweet looking setup, if only i knew how to weld

 

I used steel "L" brackets for the top mounts and aluminum 1" x 2" bar for the bottom mounts.

 

i am also doing a vmount fill build up in which i will make a tread in a few weeks but i also noticed that the filter was hitting the intercooler, hks makes a filter thats really short, there is even a knock off version just type in 100mm air filter on ebay or hks air filter it will help you out alot better with your build.

 

Now this I like. The OP could always or rather maybe I didn't see it but a petcock would be in order.

 

will the high dense foam withstand the heat ad where can i buy that?

 

Where did you buy your Ron Davis IC and how much was it?

 

if you read it says look on ebay. and yes the filter will do fine

 

Sorry, not like myself to miss those things!?

 

If you're talking about my Ron Davis *radiator*, I got it custom made from Ron Davis. Here's the thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/my-new-custom-v-mount-intercooler-862551/

 

...put some socks and shoes on

 

looking good Eddie, i gotta stop by and see this in person... ima need some more idea's off of you ... or you should stop by... im in the middle of removing all the interior on the fd removing all the sound deadening from the fd...


looking good though.

 

I had my radiator altered for my vmount. I am going to take pictures and ask your opinion on if I need that block plate for the water passage or not. I am kind of concerned now. Yours looks really good.

 

Great fab work!

 

Great project oo7, keep it up, congrats.

Yours is also looking great pacman.

 

Uhmm... OK.... Why don't you try and increase your post count by making useful posts. Threads on this board do not need useless, random crap like this posted. You don't like my feet, don't look at em...


Yeah I actually have the authentic HKS filter you are referring to. I liked the look of this filter better and the fact that it is NOT a foam filter like the HKS. It is near impossible to tell from the pics but the filter does not actually contact the IC at all. There is about a cm gap.

Yes it will withstand heat. You should be able to pick it up at places like hobby lobby or maybe they even have it at lowes or home depot. I picked mine up from work out of some boxes that come packed with reagent and dry ice.

If both inlet and outlet are on the top of the radiator then yes you will need a separator plate.

By petcock do you mean drain plug? And yes, I got the entire thing back together, filled it up and noticed my dumb self forgot to move the drain plug from the front (top) to the back (bottom). I am actually getting ready to yank it all back out and fix that.

Pacman, I really like what you have done. I think the bar is a bit overkill for support but it has no ill effects and I may borrow this idea from you when I tear all this back out and build something similar. Thanks for the great idea and great pics!!

 

They are not on top, although, I wish that they were. It would have given me more ground clearance and allowed me to run a better angle on the IC/Rad. Owell, when I am done with the ducting, it shouldnt matter too much.

 

edit...

 

I actually borrowed the idea from Speed of Light, so I have to give credit where credit is due! But that's what we're all here for anyways, to exchange ideas, right?

 

^^absolutely...

On a separate note, I noticed you sold your RC a while ago to buy a ring.. Don't worry you are not the only one that has done that. I loved my RC51. Such a fun, deep throated bike. I used to rip through the mountains in colorado by my condo with mine. 120+ with no guardrails gets a lil sketchy on occation...