Is my car running hot OR WHAT?!?
There is so much BS in this thread it's not even funny.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
3. This guy doesn't need a new radiator or fans, he needs a new t-stat. New caps would certainly be good idea as well.
4. Running the fans all of the time is DUMB. It is just pointless wear on the fan motors. Once the t-stat closes, the fans will be doing little but wearing out.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
3. This guy doesn't need a new radiator or fans, he needs a new t-stat. New caps would certainly be good idea as well.
4. Running the fans all of the time is DUMB. It is just pointless wear on the fan motors. Once the t-stat closes, the fans will be doing little but wearing out.
Also, the other cap is just a flat cap, right? It's not leaking at all & seems to be in good shape, So I see no need to replace it. Thanks for your input.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 10
From: San Lorenzo, California
The 13-lb cap is fine. The stock AST is fine (if delicate) if new. 
You shouldn't have to worry about the filler neck cap. In reality, if your caps were bad, you would have boiled over well before 120C.
You shouldn't have to worry about the filler neck cap. In reality, if your caps were bad, you would have boiled over well before 120C.
PV = nRT
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand (was California)
Well its summer time so im sure the car will warm up anyway.
I like to be safe. It already became a habit of just switching the fan on when i hit around 170-180F because at least i know when im driving i wont forget.
I remember one time i forgot to switch the fan on and i like 35 min past and i looked at the gauge it was about 210F. I was like damn, time to hit those fans LOL
I like to be safe. It already became a habit of just switching the fan on when i hit around 170-180F because at least i know when im driving i wont forget.
I remember one time i forgot to switch the fan on and i like 35 min past and i looked at the gauge it was about 210F. I was like damn, time to hit those fans LOL
You don't need fans to have a steady 190-200F. Now don't get me wrong - I could understand if you're sitting in the dead heat of traffic and it starts creeping up - sure hit the fans. But if you're moving along and seeing 210 without the fans - not normal. Not the end of the world, but not normal either. I must emphasize that this is when the car is *moving*.
Whenever i do drive my car, 90% of the time its stop and go traffic. Hitting 200F, especially now in the warm weather will come with the quickness. I rather have the peace of mind knowing my car will maintain a 185F with the fans on and i dont have to worry about it during my entire drive (unless i do a spirited run).
I been having this habit since i got the car, i dont see the harm in it. Maybe the fan motors will burn soon. If it does, ill replace them, whats that gonna cost?
I understand what you and rynberg mean about its dumb to do this because it will cause no harm but i like being extra safe. Nothing wrong with keeping a 185-190F temp with the fans on.
toeachisown
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: glen burnie, md
Whenever i do drive my car, 90% of the time its stop and go traffic. Hitting 200F, especially now in the warm weather will come with the quickness. I rather have the peace of mind knowing my car will maintain a 185F with the fans on and i dont have to worry about it during my entire drive (unless i do a spirited run).
I been having this habit since i got the car, i dont see the harm in it. Maybe the fan motors will burn soon. If it does, ill replace them, whats that gonna cost?
I understand what you and rynberg mean about its dumb to do this because it will cause no harm but i like being extra safe. Nothing wrong with keeping a 185-190F temp with the fans on.
I been having this habit since i got the car, i dont see the harm in it. Maybe the fan motors will burn soon. If it does, ill replace them, whats that gonna cost?
I understand what you and rynberg mean about its dumb to do this because it will cause no harm but i like being extra safe. Nothing wrong with keeping a 185-190F temp with the fans on.
Thruthfully i don't think its dumb, period. Its a precaution. Any precaution is really not considered dumb. my stock fans have been operating constantly for about 50k miles and that is after the rebuild. they are meant to operate and last. i have done this on my 240sx when i did the sr swap. there is nothing detramental about constantly running fans.
Exactly
New Jersey is one big mess so anywhere you go, basically anytime you will run into traffic. Its like cali so you guys should know what i mean.
So when i do drive the car, 90% of the time its stop and go. The other 10% is when i have to drive back from the shop which involves highway
By now i live like 5 blocks from the highway so my cruises will involve more highway. So thats good.
Btw, the HKS controller costs money, i did the the fan mod for free
O well, im gonna continue to do it the way i been doing it because nothing bad came out of it.
New Jersey is one big mess so anywhere you go, basically anytime you will run into traffic. Its like cali so you guys should know what i mean.
So when i do drive the car, 90% of the time its stop and go. The other 10% is when i have to drive back from the shop which involves highway
By now i live like 5 blocks from the highway so my cruises will involve more highway. So thats good.
Btw, the HKS controller costs money, i did the the fan mod for free
O well, im gonna continue to do it the way i been doing it because nothing bad came out of it.
UPDATE: After changing my thermostat, the temps are perfect! Normal driving in hot Miami 90 degree F weather brings the car to the 90-100 degree C range and when I push it very hard, it doesn't go any higher than 108, which is MUCH better.
I took the old thermostat out of the car and put it in boiling water in my kitchen to see if it was bad, and indeed it was. After sitting in boiling water for ten minutes, it didn't open at all! I guess the rest of my cooling system is probably in pretty good shape since my car didn't overheat completely with the old thermostat never opening, huh?
DIAGNOSING YOUR CAR WITH HELP FROM RX7CLUB.COM....................................... ................$0.00
NEW THERMOSTAT FROM RAY CROWE AT MALLOY MAZDA............................................. ...........$13.63
LABOR COSTS FOR REPLACING THERMOSTAT YOURSELF.......................................... ..............$0.00
DRIVING RX7 HARD FOR HOURS AND HOURS WITHOUT OVERHEATING....................................... .PRICELESS
Thanks for all your help guys,
Ian
I took the old thermostat out of the car and put it in boiling water in my kitchen to see if it was bad, and indeed it was. After sitting in boiling water for ten minutes, it didn't open at all! I guess the rest of my cooling system is probably in pretty good shape since my car didn't overheat completely with the old thermostat never opening, huh?
DIAGNOSING YOUR CAR WITH HELP FROM RX7CLUB.COM....................................... ................$0.00
NEW THERMOSTAT FROM RAY CROWE AT MALLOY MAZDA............................................. ...........$13.63
LABOR COSTS FOR REPLACING THERMOSTAT YOURSELF.......................................... ..............$0.00
DRIVING RX7 HARD FOR HOURS AND HOURS WITHOUT OVERHEATING....................................... .PRICELESS
Thanks for all your help guys,
Ian
PV = nRT
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand (was California)
UPDATE: After changing my thermostat, the temps are perfect! Normal driving in hot Miami 90 degree F weather brings the car to the 90-100 degree C range and when I push it very hard, it doesn't go any higher than 108, which is MUCH better.
I took the old thermostat out of the car and put it in boiling water in my kitchen to see if it was bad, and indeed it was. After sitting in boiling water for ten minutes, it didn't open at all! I guess the rest of my cooling system is probably in pretty good shape since my car didn't overheat completely with the old thermostat never opening, huh?
I took the old thermostat out of the car and put it in boiling water in my kitchen to see if it was bad, and indeed it was. After sitting in boiling water for ten minutes, it didn't open at all! I guess the rest of my cooling system is probably in pretty good shape since my car didn't overheat completely with the old thermostat never opening, huh?
Full Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Norway
Or did you mean by this response, than an always-on solution is a bad idea? The 86/87C setup in PFC is advices I've gotten from others, anyone has other suggestions? My car has not seen 88C after I received the PFC and I'm very happy with that, but having the fans on a lot is annoying by itself...
Is 90 or 95 any better?
Still running original radiator.
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: LAS VEGAS
Normal operating temps should be around 90 95 so having the fans come on at 85 would just burn them up faster. I think if you are that worried then 100 would be a good compromise and keep them from coming on all the time and burning them up I think if mazda was worried about it they would of had them turning on earlier. Just my two cents
I think if mazda was worried about it they would of had them turning on earlier. Just my two cents
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 986
Likes: 0
From: Okayama - Japan
There is so much BS in this thread it's not even funny.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
3. This guy doesn't need a new radiator or fans, he needs a new t-stat. New caps would certainly be good idea as well.
4. Running the fans all of the time is DUMB. It is just pointless wear on the fan motors. Once the t-stat closes, the fans will be doing little but wearing out.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
3. This guy doesn't need a new radiator or fans, he needs a new t-stat. New caps would certainly be good idea as well.
4. Running the fans all of the time is DUMB. It is just pointless wear on the fan motors. Once the t-stat closes, the fans will be doing little but wearing out.
Hey guys did anyone notice a change in temp with a CF vented bonnet?
here are some pics at the bottom of the page
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/thermostat-removal-560841/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/thermostat-removal-560841/
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,014
Likes: 40
From: CT
u dont need to pull over when temps get to 96. in stock form the car gets to 100 easily. i;de pull over at 105-107 though unless of course u have your fans set to come on early. actually its hard to target a number in which its time to pull over i guess the right answer is if u see temps that deviate from the norm u are used to seeing.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,014
Likes: 40
From: CT
There is so much BS in this thread it's not even funny.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
3. This guy doesn't need a new radiator or fans, he needs a new t-stat. New caps would certainly be good idea as well.
4. Running the fans all of the time is DUMB. It is just pointless wear on the fan motors. Once the t-stat closes, the fans will be doing little but wearing out.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
3. This guy doesn't need a new radiator or fans, he needs a new t-stat. New caps would certainly be good idea as well.
4. Running the fans all of the time is DUMB. It is just pointless wear on the fan motors. Once the t-stat closes, the fans will be doing little but wearing out.
Man you got lucky, glad it worked out in the end.
Next time your temps get well over 110C dont romp on it shooting for 120C, thats just flirting with disaster!
I am running with no A/C now (condenser removed) and my temps according to PFC get up to about 95C when driving. When I had A/C I would turn off the A/C at 105 and turn on the heat if it hit 110, would cool it right down.
Next time your temps get well over 110C dont romp on it shooting for 120C, thats just flirting with disaster!
I am running with no A/C now (condenser removed) and my temps according to PFC get up to about 95C when driving. When I had A/C I would turn off the A/C at 105 and turn on the heat if it hit 110, would cool it right down.
There is so much BS in this thread it's not even funny.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
1. With the stock caps and "normal" coolant/water mix, the coolant will not boil over until over 120C.
2. All you guys worried about hitting 100C are just plain ignorant. The stock ecu/switch doesn't even turn the fans on to LOW until 105C. While it's better for daily use to keep temps REASONABLE, there is nothing wrong with hitting 100-105C in hot weather with the A/C on. When tracking the car, it takes a LOT of modification to keep the car below 105-110C on a hot day.
The oil probably isn't even up to operating temps if coolant is at 93c.
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