My battery keeps dying!!
#1
Keep it Easy
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My battery keeps dying!!
I usually drive this car about once a month or so and i always have to jump start it. My garage doesn't have an electrical outlet for a trickle charger either. Someone told me my alternator might be the problem. Any theories? My mechanic is so far away i would rather try and take care of this problem myself.
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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You can buy a manual battery disconnect switch for about $10:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
You might also try to see what your current drain is when off with a multimeter.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
You might also try to see what your current drain is when off with a multimeter.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
I Had the same problem. turned out it was my air pump . the electrical clutch on the pump went bad and created an electrical draw that killed the battery over night. also make sure the door is closed and the interior lights are off when parked. you have something on and its drawing a load.
Jeff
Jeff
#5
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
You have one or more of the following problems:
1. Crappy battery that won't hold a charge.
2. Crappy alternator that won't charge the battery.
3. Crappy electrical draw that is draining the battery.
You will likely have to do some wire testing to find the drain if that is the problem. First check aftermarket additions (if you have any) like alarm systems.
1. Crappy battery that won't hold a charge.
2. Crappy alternator that won't charge the battery.
3. Crappy electrical draw that is draining the battery.
You will likely have to do some wire testing to find the drain if that is the problem. First check aftermarket additions (if you have any) like alarm systems.
#6
Racecar - Formula 2000
Probably not the alternator
If it were the alternator, the car wouldn't keep running long after you started the car with jumper cables. It is either an internal short in the battery, a battery that won't take much charge, or excessive current draw while the car is off.
#7
TANSTAFL
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If your battery has been drawn down that many times, it's probably toast. A good battery should last a month without a draw on it.
To test the alternator output all you have to do is put a multimeter set for DC voltagte on the battery terminals while the engine is running. If it's 12V or below the alternator isn't working, if it's closer to 14v, the alternator is working. Do this test with a new battery.
Also get a float charger if you drive your car that infrequently. They're $10 at harbor freight.
To test the alternator output all you have to do is put a multimeter set for DC voltagte on the battery terminals while the engine is running. If it's 12V or below the alternator isn't working, if it's closer to 14v, the alternator is working. Do this test with a new battery.
Also get a float charger if you drive your car that infrequently. They're $10 at harbor freight.
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#8
Use a digital multimeter and measure across the battery terminals while the car is running. You should have over 14v. If you don't, your alt is bad. Also, let your car run for a while to charge up your battery. Then, remove your negative cable and measure the voltage. You should have over 12v. Let it sit overnight (with the cable disconnected) and check your battery again. It should still be over 12v. You can let it sit a few more days and check again. If it drops, you have a bad battery. If both check out OK, then you have a draw somewhere.
To check for the draw, place the car in it's resting state (doors locked, however it is that you let it sit in the garage). Set your multimeter to amps, and remove the neg battery cable. But the black multimeter lead on the neg batt post, and the red on the neg batt cable. Touch the cable to the post for half a minute so everything powers up, then remove it while still keeping the multimeter leads connected to the batteyr post and the cable. You should not have over .05 Amps. If you do, then something is draining your battery. Start removing fuses until the draw drops to find the culprit circuit, then narrow it down to which component within the circuit is causing the problem.
To check for the draw, place the car in it's resting state (doors locked, however it is that you let it sit in the garage). Set your multimeter to amps, and remove the neg battery cable. But the black multimeter lead on the neg batt post, and the red on the neg batt cable. Touch the cable to the post for half a minute so everything powers up, then remove it while still keeping the multimeter leads connected to the batteyr post and the cable. You should not have over .05 Amps. If you do, then something is draining your battery. Start removing fuses until the draw drops to find the culprit circuit, then narrow it down to which component within the circuit is causing the problem.
#9
13BREW
iTrader: (16)
I usually drive this car about once a month or so and i always have to jump start it. My garage doesn't have an electrical outlet for a trickle charger either. Someone told me my alternator might be the problem. Any theories? My mechanic is so far away i would rather try and take care of this problem myself.
#10
as has been stated. check for drain first as this will be a problem with a good or "bad" battery that will not hold a charge, and you can do it without needing to load test the battery. then charge and load test the battery. a month is a long time i would look into a trickle charger
#11
Put it in her butt
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get your battery and alternator tested at your local store.. if that is good get out a current tester and starting checking major lines, its probably a bad wire or something is not turning off and is constantly drawing power if it is not the battery or alternato.
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