More Coolant Issues...
#1
Patience=POWER
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More Coolant Issues...
So the problem is that whenever I start the car or accelerate, I can hear water on the passenger side. Sounds like water from behind the glove compartment ...I've been burping it for quite some time now but it seems to help for a little while...example a week it will be okay and then it's back to the begining where alot of coolant leeks from the resivior...I just replaced the plastic tank as well as the ast cap and the filler cap.....What should I do now????Please help much thanks!
#2
Rotary Freak
It sounds like you have a coolant seal leak. You have the same symptoms that my car had when my coolant seals went(the first time). You may just have bad radiator pressure caps...
Do the champagne "Bubble test" to see if you are gettign exhaust gasses into your cooling system. Do you have white smoke at start-up?
Bad coolant seal = Rebuild time. Sorry.
Search: "bubble test" & "block weld"<---Might buy you some time before you have to rebuild your motor.
Do the champagne "Bubble test" to see if you are gettign exhaust gasses into your cooling system. Do you have white smoke at start-up?
Bad coolant seal = Rebuild time. Sorry.
Search: "bubble test" & "block weld"<---Might buy you some time before you have to rebuild your motor.
#4
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by EfiniBoy01
I have no white somke when I start up my car nor do i smell the sweet coolant smell...I guess I have to try the test...
I just went through all this crap.
#5
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My temp guage doesn't ever go up either and the car runs strong....Can it be the seals even if I have no signs of any problems other then the air pockets and the occasional coolant leeking from the resivior tank?
#7
~17 MPG
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The stock temp gauge is pretty worthless. The gauge won't start rising until coolant temps have reached 220F (105 C).
The hot mark on the gauge indicates 266 F (130 C). FYI, a 50/50 water/coolant mix will boil at 261F (127C ) when used with your stock 0.9 bar AST cap. For comparison, pure water will boil around 246F (119C) when using the stock 0.9 bar AST cap.
By the way, overheating is only one of the ways to kill coolant seals. It's possible to damage your coolant seals by boosting on a cold motor, when the aluminum rotor housings have not yet expanded to normal operating temps, which leaves the coolant seals more vulnerable.
That 'water rushing sound' indicates that you've got a large pocket of air in your system. For starters, remove both the AST cap and the filler cap when you check your coolant level or add coolant. I would also suggest that you start saving money for a rebuild.
-s-
The hot mark on the gauge indicates 266 F (130 C). FYI, a 50/50 water/coolant mix will boil at 261F (127C ) when used with your stock 0.9 bar AST cap. For comparison, pure water will boil around 246F (119C) when using the stock 0.9 bar AST cap.
By the way, overheating is only one of the ways to kill coolant seals. It's possible to damage your coolant seals by boosting on a cold motor, when the aluminum rotor housings have not yet expanded to normal operating temps, which leaves the coolant seals more vulnerable.
That 'water rushing sound' indicates that you've got a large pocket of air in your system. For starters, remove both the AST cap and the filler cap when you check your coolant level or add coolant. I would also suggest that you start saving money for a rebuild.
-s-
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#8
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I know this may sound dumb but where can I get the bubble test to see if there is gas or carbon present in my coolant??? I called pep boys, auto zone, kragen, and even napa only to find out they had no idea what I was talking about....is there another name for it and how much does it run....also what exactly is it...? Thanks so muck guys....!
#9
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
You, sir, might be interested in the 'C' section of the FAQ, which can be found at https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/ . There are TONS of coolant-related links there.
Also, if you search ( https://www.rx7club.com/search.php ) for "bubble test," and limit your search to the 3rd Gen Section, I guarantee you'll find a thread titled " Champagne Bubble test" by svelte_7. There is a very good description of this simple test given in that thread.
I also recommend the Coolant Burping Tool/ Radiator Cap Funnel that is linked from the FAQ. It makes the Champagne Bubble test much less messy, and is a great way to remove air trapped in your coolant system.
-s-
Also, if you search ( https://www.rx7club.com/search.php ) for "bubble test," and limit your search to the 3rd Gen Section, I guarantee you'll find a thread titled " Champagne Bubble test" by svelte_7. There is a very good description of this simple test given in that thread.
I also recommend the Coolant Burping Tool/ Radiator Cap Funnel that is linked from the FAQ. It makes the Champagne Bubble test much less messy, and is a great way to remove air trapped in your coolant system.
-s-
Last edited by scotty305; 05-02-06 at 09:14 PM.
#10
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Buy new radiator cap, new cap for AST and a new FC Thermoswitch and make sure you properly burp the system either using the burping tool referenced above or you can make your own. If then you are still having problems then start saving money for a new engine.
#11
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Okay Guys Much Thanks Im Gonna Try The Burping Method With The Funnel And Then See What Happens ....otherwise I'll Be Into Another Engine.......ohh Well, Gots To Love The Rotary Regardless Of The Issues That Come With It!
#12
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I have replaced my thermostat, my water pump, and my radiator. Today I replaced my AST cap when I pressure tested it and found a slow leak. No white smoke at start up. Just a low coolant buzzer everytime I drive and temperatures rising when idling in traffic. No " Champagne Bubbles in my filler neck. I sure hope it isn't a bad coolant seal.
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