Just got the R1. Previous owner had parked it for a long time. Interesting issue with the car...

Everything was fine, even when it was parked. Guess some mice or something moved into the engine bay, and then some issues perked up.

He says it's fuel cut. I haven't driven the car so I can't really explain what it is, but he said everything is fine until it hits full boost. At that time, he said it's like hitting a wall, all the power falls off. I pulled off the UIM manifold, and some friends and I absolutely combed the engine bay looking for anything. The vacuum lines are all in WONDERFUL condition, no messed up wires, couldn't find a dang thing. Only thing I found was the Greddy profec had been severed by little teeth lol. But he said the boost was being controlled by a manual valve and the PFC. So that likely isn't the cause.

I'm at a loss. I don't even know where to start looking at this point. Three people spent 4 hours combing the bay and didn't find anything wrong.

Anyone have any clues whatsoever?

If it helps, the gas in it is ten years old lol.

I was wondering if just the gas would cause that problem?

And I will be changing the fuel this weekend. Then going to put some E85 in there and let it sit for a few days, then drain all that out, help it clean out. Then fill it with 100 octane from the station around the corner from my house.

Just... if anyone has any ideas... please. and thank you.

 

Test your secondary injectors

 

I'm not sure if you are serious or not about the mice. If you had mice in the engine bay, they likely also chewed on the wiring (it happens, a lot). Check the wiring for any damage or frays.

 

do you have an AFR gauge ?

 

Old gas isn't helping things. There is a drain at the bottom of the tank, drain the old gas out and fill with new 93 octane (or whatever you can get in Cali). You may have a plugged fuel filter from rust and debris in the tank. Start with that.

You may also need to pull the fuel pump and look in the tank, I've seen tanks SOLID with rust from sitting before.

Dale

 

Dale beat me too it. I would check the fuel pump voltage, rust in the tank, dirty sock, and get some new gas.

 

Literally, mice/rats lived in the engine bay, thouhh I don't think for long. I spent several hours going over the engine bay last night, with a friend. Everything is avtually in really good condition, much to my surprise. The only chewed wires I found, were for the Greddy Profec, that was it. The vacuum lines feel and look brand new, its crazy. The insulation for some of the wires are a little crispy from heat/age, but the wires inside are great!

And as far as the fuel, I thought of that just last night hahah. It stands to reason that is the problem, or certainly not helping. If the car was fine, then after sitting for a long time, it wasnt fine, gas goes bad....I want to upgrade the fuel system. Id1000s and a good pump, with an aeromotive fuel filter, to run e85. But not looking for even 500hp really. Just want thw car to be safer.

 

fyi The PFC has a screen that allows you to check the operation of the sensors. Might be useful - or might not.

Definitely sounds like a fuel supply / delivery issue or boost cut.

What mods does the car have? Considering you have both a PFC AND a boost controller makes me suspect that he might have been having boost control issues.

 

Car has non-seq mod, fidanza flywheel, PFC, pretty large streetport, etc. Friend who I got the car from said it was making about 400 at the motor, who knows what at the tires.

I don't know what's up with the manual boost controller and the PFC, seems a little redundant to me...

draining the fuel tank, going to replace fuel pump, filter, and get larger injectors. Hopefully that solves it.

 

BTW, I would get the car running and driving in the current condition BEFORE modding the car. Sounds like you have a pretty close to stock setup as it is right now, if you just try and rip everything out and figure it out/debug it later, you'll end up with a roller that you'll be selling. I've seen it happen MANY times.

Not to mention it will give you an opportunity to drive the car around as it is for a bit, see how everything else is and what else it might need. Quite possible it needs brakes, suspension work, etc.

If it's been sitting THAT long I would also plan on doing an oil change and flush/fill the radiator. Probably flush/fill the brake fluid as well.

Dale

 

The car does run and drive fine. It just has an issue once it hits full boost. It has been sitting a long time. did an oil change already, getting ready to drain the tank. Car has good brakes, coilover suspension, etc. not very stock engine. I just don't feel like typing all the mods that are certainly not applicable to this particular problem is all. Sorry if that seems rude...

not going to drain the coolant, as it is full of evans npg+ and that is good....forever, as far as I know. That stuff is pricey, don't want to dump it for no reason, you know?

 

You have an issue with the fuel system or tune. What boost is it hitting? What is the target boost in the pfc?

 

The car was never tuned, just running on the pfc basemap. I think the target boost was 13 psi?

 

Full list of mods will help. If you exceed the target boost set in the pfc it will cut fuel, which is what you may be experiencing. Whether or not the car has an issue it still really should be tuned. Sounds to me like you are hitting a fuel cut, which can hurt the motor.

 

Well, as far as I know the mods are this:

Large street port
non sequential turbos
Greddy Profec
boost gauge
Apexi power fc with commander
3"downpipe to dual 4" mid to 3" straight pipe
zero emmisions on the car
Fidanzda flywheel
ACT clutch
aluminum AST
3" intercooler and all the other reliability mods... uhm...

I dunno? lol. Trying to remember all he said... the car is supposedly making somewhere around 400hp at the flywheel... so I don't know how much boost he was pushing or anything...

Interesting to note however, that today, while going back over the rats nest, and such, a friend was intrigued by the ignition system on the car, and had no concept of leading/trailing plugs and noticed one of the trailing plugs had the boot for the wire completely off the plug haha. I never bothered looking over there, as he said the problem was in the rats nest, and I was trying to hunt that down before anything else, as to try and not blow up the car, you know?

I drained the gas tank today. I did it in my driveway, with a mask on, and I think I still got very very high. almost blacked out. the gas was just... so potent. I popped the sending unit out as well, as I plan on upgrading the fuel pump to a Bosch 044, and putting in an Aeromotive fuel filter, ID1000 injectors, running 9's for the plugs...maybe a FPR, not sure if I would need that though....

THoughts everybody?

also, thank you all for your help so far. It's indispensable.

 

I have decided to just got 850 primary and 1300 secondary injectors. Should be more than adequate for my power goals, with room to spare, and I dont need to fiddle with the fuel rails really. Still upgrading the fuel pump and new filter obviously.

 

That car should never make 400 crank hp which is around 360whp on stock injectors if it has the stock pfc tune then more then.likely its going lean when you go into boost do you not have a widebnd?? Id say replace the fuel replace filter replace plugs and wire take.it for a drive try light 5psi pull then if afrs are.good try 10

Ideal afrs at 5psi is 12.0 not 12.8 try that and.come back just so you know there is always a.plus or minus abojt .3 because of air temp

 

He did say the car leans out a lot in the top which I know is very dangerous. I do not have a wideband though.

Trying to upgrade the fuel system and see where I am at from there.

 

Putting the 850s in the primary rail is far less than ideal. You will never get a great idle or be able to lean the car out enough for decent cruising afrs with the power fc. The 1300s are just modified 850s and have a high failure rate. I had 3 sets go bad last year alone. I will not install them. Get some proper rails like FFE and Bosch ev14 injectors. You want the AFRs to be in the high 10s/low 11s under boost. Leaning out will blow the motor in no time.

 

This is a huge mistake if you upgrade your injectors and do not followup with a tune your car wont even run without a wideband you are blind you have no idea what the issue even is start there and dont beleive what mr 400hp says he was just lying to get the car off his lot

 

Exactly if you can afford it go with modern injectors but otherwises ive had good luck with 550 stock primaries and 1300 secondaries which.is enough for the limit of the twin turbos

If you plan to go single then. Id get some ev14s

 

My own personal rule of thumb when ever I buy a used car is a COMPLETE tune up and replacement of ALL fluids.... I don't trust anything about the car unless I go thru it completely. More so with a car that has sat for "10 years"...

My List...
Plugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, diff fluid, tranny fluid, coolant, oil w/filter change, all fan belts, all brake pads,....

This gives me a clean start just in case something happens it's easier to troubleshoot...

good luck

 

I agree.
I would guess "he" parked it because of the issues your now trying to deal with.

I think you need to drive the car, and stop trying to diagnose only off "what he said", because "he" obviously did not know what he was doing.

Do you really have dual 4" mid pipes? if so previous owner is a moron.

 

I am very hesitant to drive the car. I want to at the very least make sure I have an adequate fuel system, but honestly dont want to bother going to a top feed setup.

I am looking at possibly running 1200 secondaries, on the account I have heard a lot of 1300 fail.

I want a fuel system than can safely deal with up to 350whp.

 

Its good that your hesitant to drive the car
I think a good place to start would be to change your pump, fuel filter and sock.
Next clean all grounds and replace spark plugs & leads.

Then lower your boost to the theoretical minimum and test.
If no problems turn boost up to 10psi. Tune.