Yes I have searched.
Yes I have read.

I understand how to install and tune WG & PC with manual valves.
I understand the common ways to install and tune with electric controllers.

I think I understand how to adjust boost with the PFC.

What I don't understand is how to INSTALL the MAC solenoids.

I have two MAC solenoids and two factory harness connectors from Ballinger.

Do you just swap the factory solenoids out for the MAC boys (lines on ports #2 and 3, vent on #1), and remove the pills in the vacuum lines?
Or do I replace the pills with the MAC valves (again, lines on ports #2 and 3, vent on #1), and then cap the factory solenoid side of the actuators similar to other methods?
Hoping @arghx will chime in...

 

lectrically connect the MAC solenoids where the factory wastegate control and precontrol solenoids (I and J) were. Move the vacuum connections from the old solenoids to the new, but either remove the pills or just use new lengths of hose instead. Toss the old solenoids and vacuum lines in your spare parts bin.

Really great info in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-531676/page3/

 

The above diagram covers it.

You can hardwire the solenoids or use 2 pin AMP connectors to mate to the stock connector. This is the cleanest way to plug it in. You'll have to find a place to mount them.

 

That link had some great info and I'm pretty sure I see what is going on now, thank you.

Sorry to be so pedantic, but just to be 100% clear, does this image accurately illustrate the general configuration?



A de-energized factory solenoid will be closed, so you can just leave the existing lines connected? I feel like it would be "safer" to pull them off the solenoid and cap them.




And if you want to get really autistic about it you can direct the vented air back into the intake, yes?

 

You can leave the original solenoids in place, they will be electrically disconnected and the vacuum lines to/from them won't be connected to anything anymore. But removing them and their associated plumbing is probably cleaner and will make for less confusion 10 years from now. No need to return the MAC vent to intake, it's a trivial volume of air and our our cars run on MAP anyway. Also, I don't know what would happen when the turbos pull vacuum on the vent, whether that would be enough to cause the solenoid to open or not. Better not take the chance. Or test it with a mityvac or something first.

 

The turbo inlet is never under true vacuum - at most it's a few inches of water, which is way less than 1" of traditional vacuum on your boost gauge. The only place where you see actual vacuum on the engine is between the throttle plates and the engine itself.

But, yes, there's no reason to vent them to the turbo inlet. Mazda did this with the stock solenoids for emissions reasons - the engine can't vent anything, all engine air must be burned and scrubbed by the cat.

Dale

 

Why use a mac valve over stock boost control solenoids?

 

For one, cost. The MAC solenoids are much less than replacing a tired or failed OEM part. The MAC units are the exact same part as was used in various aftermarket boost control kits from Apexi and the like. Installing them gave my car better throttle response and primary/secondary transition than I ever had with the factory unit, but that could be chalked up to the age of the original solenoids, not sure.

 

Thought I posted this up before... Anyway posting for @sergejcik

All done! Works well.

 

Dang, nice job on the plumbing and wiring harness!

Dale

 

Clean install. Would that tuck under the stock intake?

 

I haven't actually tried it yet, but yes it seemed as though it would.

 

hi
i did same as you
just question left, what should i do with 2 nipples on the picture, as i dont understand , i think its a vent , should i keep it or not, also do i need any pills ? greetings from lithuania

 

Just leave those two hoses alone.

If you haven't already seen it, the vacuum hose diagram is indispensable: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-turbo-749702/ Really, if you haven't seen it, get familiar with it. Most people print it out and keep it handy.

And no, you don't need the pills.

 

hi
thanks
i saw it many times too, the think is i dont understand where dark blue line goes to(injectors?) turbos? and second hose doesn't colored at all, its white, so thats why im asking where it goes, also is i removed old lines from 2 solenoids i replaced there, i need 4 silicone caps (not on the wastegates) but on metal connection barel where is 5 or 6 outputs , as now i have only 1 of them left!

 

The blue hose is just a positive pressure source that is used for a bunch of different things. If you removed the two factory solenoids from the "barrel" just plug the holes where they were connected.

 

and if i have another hose connected right next to blue line, to turbo, what da hell is that? is not marked on vacuum scheme... want to find out, is it a vent too

 

You mean the smaller one, to the right of the large blue one, that is un-colored in the diagram? I donno. Leave it alone.

 

There are 2 lines going to the black plastic primary turbo inlet. One is for a vent for the turbo solenoids (wastegate control/precontrol) mounted to the upper intake manifold, as well as a vent for the OMP nozzles.

The other one eventually goes to the nipple on the oil fill neck that points down. This is a vent for the PCV system.

Dale

 

See, listen to Dale, not me.

 

Does polarity matter on the solenoids? My mac valves do not show any sort of positive or negative indications on the wiring.

 

I recall having the same question and testing them— they don’t care.

 

I know I'm 4 years late but what do I search for to get those fittings? They're exactly what I'm looking for but I can't find them. Thanks!!

 

They're brass 1/4 NPT thread I think. Barb fitting (6mm?), right angle, and filter.

 

Ahh okay I thought there was some sort of swivel fitting going on to allow that angle, but I guess just crank down on it til it's the at the right angle?