In regard to the Turbo Control Solenoid that is attached to the ACV, if the 2 vacuum lines attached to the solenoid got switched around, would that have an ill effect as far as accelerating goes with the vehicle? I can see the way the lines are supposed to go on according to the manual, and mine were swapped around and I am still having power/acceleration bogging issues. I have simplified the seq. system and was going over my lines and found this today. Thoughts?

Trev

 

5/8 of the page down

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

 

That has great info, but I can't find out what effect it would have if I switched around the two vacuum lines on accident on the turbo control valve which is bolted to the ACV...anyone?

 

ttt

 

ttt

 

I've found that they leak if you have the vacuum hooked up to the wrong side. But that's just what I learned by testing witha mityvac; I have not had a boost problem that was caused/solved by crosssing the hoses.

Dave

 

Its very hard to study that part of the vacuume hose diagram, but personally from having a good look it could cause a bad problem,,, i can see that because the hoses are switched it would mean you had a vacuume leak on the pipe complex that is supposed to control the charge control actuator (meaning the charge control actuator might not close,,, you will have a major lack of boost that will be vented throught the charge releif valve) basically yes its not good.

 

Oh, yeah, Tiger18 is right. Make sure the nipple closest to the body of the solenoid is the one routed to the actuator. It's a 3 way valve.

Dave

 

I wonder if this could cause my vacuum being unstable and hesitant acceleration?

Trev

 

It shouldn't have a bearing on your vacuum reading. It will cause an issue with the TCA and Charge Control operation. The TCA requires both vacuum and pressure (push and pull mechanism) to work properly. Without one or the other it will not be able to respond quick enough. If the charge control isn't working properly, you probably won't have any boost until the CRV closes.

 

that could explain why i couldn't build boost at all...could it be a reason for the bucking and sluggish acceleration though?

 

I don't believe that would cause any bucking. How severe is the bucking? Does the bucking go away as the car warms up?

 

it goes away as it warms up i guess. It just feels so sluggish and with only 600 miles on the motor, i am not crazy about WOT pulls yet. If I get it over 3500, it feels much more responsive than under 3k rpms..

 

Well, you are going to have to do a boost test at some point to see what's happening below 3500. If the bucking goes away as it warms up, I would check things which revolve around temperature. I noticed some cold bucking on my car (years ago) after I removed the Double Throttle.

 

I have the double throttle still connected and wondered if it could be causing issues with the car if it were stuck opne/closed?