FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

ok so iv been having trouble since i got the car, and now i figured i have time to try and fix it.when i took off the door panel and saw the lock motor, i press my alarm button to unlock/lock and i see it kinda move and see it wasn't connected to the lock cable. After putting it on and trying it it seems like it doesn't have enough power to pull or push it... i also notice the wires to it are crimped like it was removed before and reattached.. so I just take it off to test it and make sure that is the problem.

I connect it to a 12v source and see the thing jump to life and extend, reversed the connection and see it compress.. seems like that cant be the problem then...

i am guessing the current isnt strong enough to move the motor as to how it should be. anyone got any ideas where i should look or what to do?

i am curious as to where the oem wires connect to.

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

On my 93 FD there is a “door lock timer” located behind the kick panel on the driver’s side. The door lock actuator is powered from there. On my 93, when you unlock the driver’s door with the key, it unlocks the passenger door automatically. If yours has that feature, does it work? If so the door lock actuator/mechanism is good and the problem is probably related to your alarm module or the wiring between your alarm and the actuator. If it doesn’t work then either the actuator is defective, the locking mechanism is jammed or you have a wiring problem. To rule out a wiring problem, connect a voltmeter across the leads of the actuator, with everything connected properly, and see what voltage is getting to the actuator. Use the alarm and the automatic unlock feature to make sure if it’s the factory wiring or the alarm wiring.

When you say you took it off to test it, does that mean you separated the actuator from the latch or did you remove the actuator/latch as a whole? If you removed the entire assembly and it works when you put 12v to it the actuator/lock is okay. You should start looking for what is causing it to bind when it’s all installed and connected (stuck cable, interference, etc.). If you removed the actuator from the latch and the actuator works when you put 12v to it, I’d be looking at the locking mechanism itself. Can you lock/unlock it easily by hand? If not the mechanism has a problem. If it does work easily by hand then the actuator is bad. Just because the actuator will work when disconnected doesn’t mean it is good. It may have enough torque to extend/retract when disconnected, but not enough to move the lock mechanism.

Sideo

Freakin awesome!

edit: looks like i posted in the wrong thread some how