Guys,

I just recently pulled my engine...

I have some questions as to what I should do first and what all should be done to the engine/turbos.

I plan on having my 7 down for afew months and take my time with everything step by step...

I'm not rich but I'm not poor, I'm keeping my stock ECU for starters... I've been thinking about upgrading the DP and I'm having a local welder take my stock cat and weld a straight pipe on in place of the cat. What size injectors should I upgrade to, do all the injectors need to be replaced?

Also, I've been in the process of doing the NON-SEQ conversion. I've already eliminated the hoses and that mess, blocked off the ACV, what else can be done to do the FULL NON-SEQ (What other plates do I need)

Any tips or advice on how I should approach my car would be great, I just removed the turbos tonight and nthey seem to be in pretty good condition, the front turbo is caked in oil for some reason but the inside looks clean.... hmm

 

Have the injectors cleaned. Go ahead and replace the FPD.

If you are keeping the stock ECU, then you need to leave the injectors the stock size. The stock ECU cannot compensate for larger injectors.

Have your stock injectors cleaned and flow balanced:

http://www.rceng.com/service.htm

Don't put a straight pipe on the car if you are keeping the stock ECU.

 

Yes, you can't have a fully open exhaust like that with the stock ECU. I would take the money you were thinking of putting into upgrading injectors and put that into a PowerFC. It would be a better bang for your buck, and protect your *modified* investment.

A upgraded ECU and a new Radiator should be close to top of the list in the way of modifications IMO.

J

 

PFC + Commander is like 1100 dollars isnt it???

A good performance radiator is like... 350 - 400?

What are some good upgrades I can do for lets say 1000 dollars max.

 

Don't waste you $$ on the bigger injectors, your a long way from needing them.

DP= good mod

Non-seq coversion, wasting your time, especially if you don't do the IC and intake along with a full exhaust.

Jeff

 

I already have a greddy intake, IC is stock... I personally like NON SEQ, I did the "poor mans" version and I actually liked it alot. Plus I have no hoses under the UIM any more, its really nice, and simplifys things, just have to amke sure I get it running right when I put it back... but yea, non-seq is badass.

 

Here's what I would recommend:

1. Downpipe (M2, HKS, they are all better than the stock pre-cat)
2. Get the injectors cleaned (about $25 or so per injector)
3. Replace all coolant hoses
4. Upgrade radiator (around $400 for the Fluidyne)
5. If you still have the stock AST, replace it with an aluminum one or eliminate it.
6. If you have the turbos out, you check the oil lines to the turbos. Might not be a bad idea to replace them while you have everything else out.
7. Miata Thermo switch
8. Replace the fuel pulsation damper

Have fun!

 

Miata thermal switch?

 

Replaces the stock thermo sensor to turn the fans on around 205F instead of 226F. Much better than the fan mod IMO as it's automatic, no user intervention required.

 

speaking of the Fuel pulsation damper, if that was bad what would it cause the car to do? I never replaced mine when i did my engine... where is it located on the fuel system? I think mine might be a cause to one of my problems? please let me know. thanks

 

I still have yet to understand why everyone thinks non-sequential is so bad ***.

 

I've never heard of any "performance" problems associated with a failing FPD. Usually it will crack and leak fuel, which will lead to a strong gas smell (and eventually an engine fire if not fixed asap).

 

Thanks for the tips Mahjik, seems like a pretty good course to follow... If possible, could you direct me to a good site where I could purchase replacements for the coolant hoses? Or would I have more luck just going to my local Mazda dealer?

Also, if anyone is selling any of what Mahjik listed new or used, feel free to PM me... I'm a student and am on a tight budget and would rather pay half price for a used IN GOOD SHAPE item than a new. Pulsation dampeners are 115 at the dealership, can anyone beat that ?!?

Also,

I just pulled my injectors out..... the tips of two of them are cracked, the pinkish/redish area, there is a hairline crack in the plastic.... is this bad ?!?

Another question, when pulling off my LIM a red gassy smelling fluid came leaking out of the block.... what the hell is this ?!? It was a liquid, more like gas than oil but it was red...

Another question, when cleaning my turbos, I noticed some oil build up on the fan it self and around the edges on the inside of the turbo, the other turbo was clean... It wasnt bad but should there be any oil at all on the inside of these, maybe that explains why my car would blow smoke at 4,000 + rpms?

So far I have the LIM off, turbos, what all else should I remove to prep for a rebuild?

 

As for the coolant hoses, there are some expensive aftermarket hoses. However, the stock hoses are fine. If you are needing to order ANY oem parts, the place to call:

Malloy Mazda
1-888-533-3400
Talk to Ray Crowe

Try to order everything you need at one time and Ray may help you out with shipping costs.

 

The broken plastic pieces of your injectors are called pintel caps. If you send them to RC Engineering for clean/balance, they will replace the caps and the o-rings as part of their deal. It is $27.50 per injector, IIRC.

As for parts, I've heard Ray Crowe is the cheapest. I've always gone with Mazdaformance, but I guess Ray is a little cheaper. I paid around $90 for my FPD.

Don't worry about the red gassy fluid. Just make sure you replace your FPD and fuel lines, injector o-rings, and all other seals. You must have had a fuel leak somewhere. It's probably red because it has picked up dirt and other garbage.

If you were blowing blue smoke at 4000 rpm, you may be in need of a turbo rebuild.

 

Wheres a good place to send my turbos to have them rebuilt if they infact need to be fixed? Should I go single turbo?

 

If you don't have a lot of money, then a single turbo will be out of the question. However, if you do need a turbo rebuild, at the moment I wouldn't trust anyone but BNR for the turbo rebuild. I've heard many horror stories of other places rebuilding turbos and them failing soon after. I have yet to hear anything bad about BNR, only praises:

http://www.lourdsmusic.com/bnrsupercars/

 

I have 2500 dollars to work with...

What would you do???

The engine tear down, clean, port job, and rebuild is costing me -500

PD - 90

DP -200ish

Clean/rebuild the injectors - ???

Atkins Reseal Kit (is this a good kit to use for a rebuild) - 500 ish

Upgraded Radiator - 300/400?

New coolant hoses - ???

And if my turbos do infact need to be rebuilt.... I'm definatley going to want to go to a single turbo, whats a fairly cheap but reliable single turbo setup I could go with???

 

Well i do get a gas smell under boost and some other little problems, like hesitation and backfiring over 6k. I can't get past 6k at WOT. The car just bucks and kicks. Its kinda notchy all they way up at WOT, but under 1/2 throttle its fine... but i smell fuel. Everything but the FPD is NEW, so its got to be it.

If anyone else has any other suggestions..?

 

As for the fuel smell, when do you get it? Can you start your car up and then smell any gas while it's idling?

 

hmmmm..... how much does a decent single turbo setup cost... just a nomral setup, Im not looking to ever make more than 350 horsepower max

 

You can get a single turbo kit starting around $3000, but that's not including other things you need (ecu, fuel mods, etc).

 

ahahaha.... shut down, so much for the single turbo idea

 

no not while its idling, its only under boost. the injectors are new, the fuel lines are new, the FPR is new, so... kinda only leaves the FPD...?

 

well, looks like you pulled your injectors out already, so don't forget, you need to replace all 8 o-rings. do not reuse the old ones! they are $80-100 from mazda for all of them, and mazda is the only place you can get them.