Just pulled my engine, have some questions
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apeiron
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Just pulled my engine, have some questions
Guys,
I just recently pulled my engine...
I have some questions as to what I should do first and what all should be done to the engine/turbos.
I plan on having my 7 down for afew months and take my time with everything step by step...
I'm not rich but I'm not poor, I'm keeping my stock ECU for starters... I've been thinking about upgrading the DP and I'm having a local welder take my stock cat and weld a straight pipe on in place of the cat. What size injectors should I upgrade to, do all the injectors need to be replaced?
Also, I've been in the process of doing the NON-SEQ conversion. I've already eliminated the hoses and that mess, blocked off the ACV, what else can be done to do the FULL NON-SEQ (What other plates do I need)
Any tips or advice on how I should approach my car would be great, I just removed the turbos tonight and nthey seem to be in pretty good condition, the front turbo is caked in oil for some reason but the inside looks clean.... hmm
I just recently pulled my engine...
I have some questions as to what I should do first and what all should be done to the engine/turbos.
I plan on having my 7 down for afew months and take my time with everything step by step...
I'm not rich but I'm not poor, I'm keeping my stock ECU for starters... I've been thinking about upgrading the DP and I'm having a local welder take my stock cat and weld a straight pipe on in place of the cat. What size injectors should I upgrade to, do all the injectors need to be replaced?
Also, I've been in the process of doing the NON-SEQ conversion. I've already eliminated the hoses and that mess, blocked off the ACV, what else can be done to do the FULL NON-SEQ (What other plates do I need)
Any tips or advice on how I should approach my car would be great, I just removed the turbos tonight and nthey seem to be in pretty good condition, the front turbo is caked in oil for some reason but the inside looks clean.... hmm
#2
Mr. Links
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Re: Just pulled my engine, have some questions
Originally posted by spoolage
I have some questions as to what I should do first and what all should be done to the engine/turbos.
I plan on having my 7 down for afew months and take my time with everything step by step...
I have some questions as to what I should do first and what all should be done to the engine/turbos.
I plan on having my 7 down for afew months and take my time with everything step by step...
Originally posted by spoolage
I'm not rich but I'm not poor, I'm keeping my stock ECU for starters... I've been thinking about upgrading the DP and I'm having a local welder take my stock cat and weld a straight pipe on in place of the cat. What size injectors should I upgrade to, do all the injectors need to be replaced?
I'm not rich but I'm not poor, I'm keeping my stock ECU for starters... I've been thinking about upgrading the DP and I'm having a local welder take my stock cat and weld a straight pipe on in place of the cat. What size injectors should I upgrade to, do all the injectors need to be replaced?
Have your stock injectors cleaned and flow balanced:
http://www.rceng.com/service.htm
Don't put a straight pipe on the car if you are keeping the stock ECU.
#3
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Yes, you can't have a fully open exhaust like that with the stock ECU. I would take the money you were thinking of putting into upgrading injectors and put that into a PowerFC. It would be a better bang for your buck, and protect your *modified* investment.
A upgraded ECU and a new Radiator should be close to top of the list in the way of modifications IMO.
J
A upgraded ECU and a new Radiator should be close to top of the list in the way of modifications IMO.
J
Last edited by Jason93RX7R1; 03-16-03 at 10:21 PM.
#6
apeiron
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I already have a greddy intake, IC is stock... I personally like NON SEQ, I did the "poor mans" version and I actually liked it alot. Plus I have no hoses under the UIM any more, its really nice, and simplifys things, just have to amke sure I get it running right when I put it back... but yea, non-seq is badass.
#7
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by spoolage
A good performance radiator is like... 350 - 400?
What are some good upgrades I can do for lets say 1000 dollars max.
A good performance radiator is like... 350 - 400?
What are some good upgrades I can do for lets say 1000 dollars max.
1. Downpipe (M2, HKS, they are all better than the stock pre-cat)
2. Get the injectors cleaned (about $25 or so per injector)
3. Replace all coolant hoses
4. Upgrade radiator (around $400 for the Fluidyne)
5. If you still have the stock AST, replace it with an aluminum one or eliminate it.
6. If you have the turbos out, you check the oil lines to the turbos. Might not be a bad idea to replace them while you have everything else out.
7. Miata Thermo switch
8. Replace the fuel pulsation damper
Have fun!
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#8
rotary sensei
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Originally posted by Mahjik
Here's what I would recommend:
1. Downpipe (M2, HKS, they are all better than the stock pre-cat)
2. Get the injectors cleaned (about $25 or so per injector)
3. Replace all coolant hoses
4. Upgrade radiator (around $400 for the Fluidyne)
5. If you still have the stock AST, replace it with an aluminum one or eliminate it.
6. If you have the turbos out, you check the oil lines to the turbos. Might not be a bad idea to replace them while you have everything else out.
7. Miata Thermo switch
8. Replace the fuel pulsation damper
Have fun!
Here's what I would recommend:
1. Downpipe (M2, HKS, they are all better than the stock pre-cat)
2. Get the injectors cleaned (about $25 or so per injector)
3. Replace all coolant hoses
4. Upgrade radiator (around $400 for the Fluidyne)
5. If you still have the stock AST, replace it with an aluminum one or eliminate it.
6. If you have the turbos out, you check the oil lines to the turbos. Might not be a bad idea to replace them while you have everything else out.
7. Miata Thermo switch
8. Replace the fuel pulsation damper
Have fun!
#12
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by twinturborx7pete
speaking of the Fuel pulsation damper, if that was bad what would it cause the car to do? I never replaced mine when i did my engine... where is it located on the fuel system? I think mine might be a cause to one of my problems? please let me know. thanks
speaking of the Fuel pulsation damper, if that was bad what would it cause the car to do? I never replaced mine when i did my engine... where is it located on the fuel system? I think mine might be a cause to one of my problems? please let me know. thanks
#13
apeiron
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Thanks for the tips Mahjik, seems like a pretty good course to follow... If possible, could you direct me to a good site where I could purchase replacements for the coolant hoses? Or would I have more luck just going to my local Mazda dealer?
Also, if anyone is selling any of what Mahjik listed new or used, feel free to PM me... I'm a student and am on a tight budget and would rather pay half price for a used IN GOOD SHAPE item than a new. Pulsation dampeners are 115 at the dealership, can anyone beat that ?!?
Also,
I just pulled my injectors out..... the tips of two of them are cracked, the pinkish/redish area, there is a hairline crack in the plastic.... is this bad ?!?
Another question, when pulling off my LIM a red gassy smelling fluid came leaking out of the block.... what the hell is this ?!? It was a liquid, more like gas than oil but it was red...
Another question, when cleaning my turbos, I noticed some oil build up on the fan it self and around the edges on the inside of the turbo, the other turbo was clean... It wasnt bad but should there be any oil at all on the inside of these, maybe that explains why my car would blow smoke at 4,000 + rpms?
So far I have the LIM off, turbos, what all else should I remove to prep for a rebuild?
Also, if anyone is selling any of what Mahjik listed new or used, feel free to PM me... I'm a student and am on a tight budget and would rather pay half price for a used IN GOOD SHAPE item than a new. Pulsation dampeners are 115 at the dealership, can anyone beat that ?!?
Also,
I just pulled my injectors out..... the tips of two of them are cracked, the pinkish/redish area, there is a hairline crack in the plastic.... is this bad ?!?
Another question, when pulling off my LIM a red gassy smelling fluid came leaking out of the block.... what the hell is this ?!? It was a liquid, more like gas than oil but it was red...
Another question, when cleaning my turbos, I noticed some oil build up on the fan it self and around the edges on the inside of the turbo, the other turbo was clean... It wasnt bad but should there be any oil at all on the inside of these, maybe that explains why my car would blow smoke at 4,000 + rpms?
So far I have the LIM off, turbos, what all else should I remove to prep for a rebuild?
#14
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by spoolage
Thanks for the tips Mahjik, seems like a pretty good course to follow... If possible, could you direct me to a good site where I could purchase replacements for the coolant hoses? Or would I have more luck just going to my local Mazda dealer?
Also, if anyone is selling any of what Mahjik listed new or used, feel free to PM me... I'm a student and am on a tight budget and would rather pay half price for a used IN GOOD SHAPE item than a new. Pulsation dampeners are 115 at the dealership, can anyone beat that ?!?
Thanks for the tips Mahjik, seems like a pretty good course to follow... If possible, could you direct me to a good site where I could purchase replacements for the coolant hoses? Or would I have more luck just going to my local Mazda dealer?
Also, if anyone is selling any of what Mahjik listed new or used, feel free to PM me... I'm a student and am on a tight budget and would rather pay half price for a used IN GOOD SHAPE item than a new. Pulsation dampeners are 115 at the dealership, can anyone beat that ?!?
Malloy Mazda
1-888-533-3400
Talk to Ray Crowe
Try to order everything you need at one time and Ray may help you out with shipping costs.
#15
Rotary Freak
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The broken plastic pieces of your injectors are called pintel caps. If you send them to RC Engineering for clean/balance, they will replace the caps and the o-rings as part of their deal. It is $27.50 per injector, IIRC.
As for parts, I've heard Ray Crowe is the cheapest. I've always gone with Mazdaformance, but I guess Ray is a little cheaper. I paid around $90 for my FPD.
Don't worry about the red gassy fluid. Just make sure you replace your FPD and fuel lines, injector o-rings, and all other seals. You must have had a fuel leak somewhere. It's probably red because it has picked up dirt and other garbage.
If you were blowing blue smoke at 4000 rpm, you may be in need of a turbo rebuild.
As for parts, I've heard Ray Crowe is the cheapest. I've always gone with Mazdaformance, but I guess Ray is a little cheaper. I paid around $90 for my FPD.
Don't worry about the red gassy fluid. Just make sure you replace your FPD and fuel lines, injector o-rings, and all other seals. You must have had a fuel leak somewhere. It's probably red because it has picked up dirt and other garbage.
If you were blowing blue smoke at 4000 rpm, you may be in need of a turbo rebuild.
#17
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by spoolage
Wheres a good place to send my turbos to have them rebuilt if they infact need to be fixed? Should I go single turbo?
Wheres a good place to send my turbos to have them rebuilt if they infact need to be fixed? Should I go single turbo?
http://www.lourdsmusic.com/bnrsupercars/
#18
apeiron
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I have 2500 dollars to work with...
What would you do???
The engine tear down, clean, port job, and rebuild is costing me -500
PD - 90
DP -200ish
Clean/rebuild the injectors - ???
Atkins Reseal Kit (is this a good kit to use for a rebuild) - 500 ish
Upgraded Radiator - 300/400?
New coolant hoses - ???
And if my turbos do infact need to be rebuilt.... I'm definatley going to want to go to a single turbo, whats a fairly cheap but reliable single turbo setup I could go with???
What would you do???
The engine tear down, clean, port job, and rebuild is costing me -500
PD - 90
DP -200ish
Clean/rebuild the injectors - ???
Atkins Reseal Kit (is this a good kit to use for a rebuild) - 500 ish
Upgraded Radiator - 300/400?
New coolant hoses - ???
And if my turbos do infact need to be rebuilt.... I'm definatley going to want to go to a single turbo, whats a fairly cheap but reliable single turbo setup I could go with???
#19
Juris Doctor
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Originally posted by Mahjik
I've never heard of any "performance" problems associated with a failing FPD. Usually it will crack and leak fuel, which will lead to a strong gas smell (and eventually an engine fire if not fixed asap).
I've never heard of any "performance" problems associated with a failing FPD. Usually it will crack and leak fuel, which will lead to a strong gas smell (and eventually an engine fire if not fixed asap).
If anyone else has any other suggestions..?
#20
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by twinturborx7pete
Well i do get a gas smell under boost and some other little problems, like hesitation and backfiring over 6k. I can't get past 6k at WOT. The car just bucks and kicks. Its kinda notchy all they way up at WOT, but under 1/2 throttle its fine... but i smell fuel. Everything but the FPD is NEW, so its got to be it.
If anyone else has any other suggestions..?
Well i do get a gas smell under boost and some other little problems, like hesitation and backfiring over 6k. I can't get past 6k at WOT. The car just bucks and kicks. Its kinda notchy all they way up at WOT, but under 1/2 throttle its fine... but i smell fuel. Everything but the FPD is NEW, so its got to be it.
If anyone else has any other suggestions..?
#22
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by spoolage
hmmmm..... how much does a decent single turbo setup cost... just a nomral setup, Im not looking to ever make more than 350 horsepower max
hmmmm..... how much does a decent single turbo setup cost... just a nomral setup, Im not looking to ever make more than 350 horsepower max
#24
Juris Doctor
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Originally posted by Mahjik
As for the fuel smell, when do you get it? Can you start your car up and then smell any gas while it's idling?
As for the fuel smell, when do you get it? Can you start your car up and then smell any gas while it's idling?
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well, looks like you pulled your injectors out already, so don't forget, you need to replace all 8 o-rings. do not reuse the old ones! they are $80-100 from mazda for all of them, and mazda is the only place you can get them.