That's one thing thats cool about RC Engineering: they replace your o-rings as part of the deal. I'm sure there are other places you can get them, you would just have to match up the diameter, thickness, and material. Mazda ones are a total ripoff!

 

I'm not sure how much you know about the RX7, but I don't think with $2500 you are going to get much farther than a rebuilt engine and a few new OEM parts. You're not budgeting nearly enough for the engine rebuild ($500!). If you need one new rotor housing, there goes $600. In an absolutely best case scenario, where you only have to replace all the seals, you're still looking at nearly $1000 in rebuild parts. And don't forget about $150 to $200 in other gaskets, $75 ? for a new waterpump and thermostat, $40 for new OMP lines... I'm sure I'm missing a lot here. Probably another $150 for coolant hoses, $125 for injector cleaning.

 

Oh yeah, and don't forget about the clutch that will probably need replacing too. There goes another $500.

 

Sorry, I don't want to hijack this thread from spoolage but take a look at this thread I started a while back:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88176

It might help you out.

 

Clutch is okay, it has a new centerforce clutch, as for the engine rebuild. Yes. it will cost 500 dollars, the guy thats doing it for me is a good guy and is the one that taught marcus williams the basics of rebuilding a rotary engine. He basically does it for the pleasure of working on 7's. But yea, 500 is the labor fee hes charging for what I had previously posted.

but regardless, of how cheap. 2500 dollars really isnt much to work with but I think if I use the money I have carefully I will be able to get the job done properly.

Hopefully my turbos are okay, supposedly the guy i bought it from said they were rebuilt 30,000 miles ago, but I just dont know why my car would be blowing blue smoke. Im hoping it was just the result of a bad line somwhere. Almost all the lines hardened from the heat and cracked when I removed them.

When replacing the OIL lines, is it a good idea to stay OEM or can I switch to silicone? I hear that silicone isnt good for any kind of oil/coolant lines?!? Is this true?

 

unless something has changed in the past year, RC does not have the o-rings and it is up to the customer to replace them. at least that's what i went through last summer.

 

lol....

so which is true, do they or do they not include the o rings.... has anyone recently had their injectors repaired by these guys? Did the rings come with ?!?

 

that's what i'm saying. i sent my injectors to RC Engineering last summer. They could not and would not supply me o-rings (at that time). they specifically told me they have been unable to find o-rings for these injectors anywhere except from mazda. i looked myself locally at advance, auto zone, car quest, napa, etc... they did not have them either.

i guess you could find o-rings that are the same size, but i think it would be a mistake not to buy proper ones to save $50-60.

 

I've always heard they supply new O-Rings, but I always thought it was strange (as the o-rings for all the injectors is actually pretty expensive for what they are... around $60+ or so for all of them).

Just call them up.

 

also, when i bought mine, they cost me $92 for all of them - and that was with the parts guy taking off a couple of dollars per pack.

 

You can get them for about $70 total at Mazdatrix:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

However, I'm sure Ray Crowe will beat that price.

 

I just sent my injectors to RC about a month ago during my engine swap, and they replaced all the o-rings, pintel caps, and cleaned / balanced for $27.50 each. A pretty good deal when you consider the ripoff price Mazda charges just for the o-rings.

 

Well, i'm running non-seq so i don't think i have that aluminum check valve. I already ordered a new FPD from mazdacomp, it was 70$ or something like that. My car always seems to have the weirdest problems.

While i'm down there, i plan on checking all my grounds and moving some of them to better places, maybe part of my problem is a bad ground? No telling with my damn car, i can't begin to tell you all the wack problems i've had, but i've always found the problem. I think it might be the FPD, because when i first broke in the motor i was able to push the car at WOT no problem with no fuel smell, so maybe the FPD decided to take a crap, the car has around 105000 miles on it now and its still using the original FPD. I'm hoping to god that it will fix my problem so i can finally get this thing on a dyno.

Thanks, if any more suggestions, they are most certainly welcome!

 

The aluminum check valve is used in the Non-seq conversion. take another look at the diagram.

 

So far...


93$ - FPD
50$ - All 8 o-rings

Ray said there were 3 coolant hoses I need?
The long one 5.88
Medium 3.06
Short one 3.36 (Throttle body to hard line?)

Turbo lines
3.60
7.38 so I guess only 2 lines are needed to be replaced to the turbo.

45$ for the oil metering lines, mine are still in tact, but they seem hardend from the heat and I want to replace them anyways. I know my brother is eliminating these lines and running synthetic w/ the premix tank... Im just gona replace them though.

10.80 for the thermostat + gasket

What other small things am I missing, also, if there are lines that I didnt include, hoses, anything of that sort please add to the list.


Main question..... should I go through Ray to buy all the parts needed for the rebuild or should I buy an atkins kit?


gota work out, be back in a bit!

 

Don't forget your upper and lower radiator hoses, the hose that goes from the AST to the filler neck and from the AST to the radiator. I would also highly recommend you replace your water pump too.

 

Would it be a good idea to get a billet AST? I know the plastic ones have a tendancy to fail? Keep in mind my car has 98,000 miles on it and compleatly stock, the engine was driving when I pulled it apart but thats so I could save my self a thousand dollars rebuilding an already okay, leaky engine vs a blown, scraped up one.

 

hmm......... in regards to the engine rebuilt/buying the parts... apex seals, springs, etc.... what did you guys do. Atkins rebuild kits? what other path can I take

 

You should definately replace the plastic AST with a metal one, or do the mod to remove it copletely. I just paid $850 for the master OH kit (which includes everything) from Bruce T. Unless I'm reading it wrong, Atkins is charging $1262 for the kit. If you go to rotaryaviation.com, they sell the kit for $918.

You'll also need a gasket kit. that cost me $127 - i didn't check the other sites on price, but i think it was around $155 or so on those other sites.

 

Greatly appreciated silver

 

Anyone on this forum used any of the kits that silver gave on his post above?

Silver, do you know if atkins sells the gasket kit? Would I have better luck just buying OEM ones from a dealer?

 

I used the OEM Mazda kit with some MazdaComp parts, i get all my parts through MazdaComp, so i get everything at dealercost. I would recommend getting the AST elimination kit from M2Performance, its cheaper, and better than the Pettit AST. You rid yourself of annoying coolant lines and you dont have to worry about AST problems. AST becomes a hassle when you get a larger intercooler.

 

If you can, I would go through Bruce T to get your parts. I wasn't aware that he sold rebuild kits, but I can say that he a great guy to deal with, and it sounds like his prices are good. He is definitely a rotary expert, and I would trust his kits have good parts.

pete: You say the AST elimination is 'better' than upgrading the AST? That's another debate altogether, and there is no evidence to support your assertion. It's definitely cheaper to eliminate it.

 

Bruce sells the gasket kit as well. if you want i can take a pic of the entire kit when i get home, but the bulk of the material is in mazda bags. You don't have to worry about bruce skimping on anything - you get real deal parts.

i'm not sure if atkins sells the gasket kit, but i imagine they probably do.

 

Silver,

That'd be great if you could get me a picture. Its not neccessary but it'd be nice to see anyways.

If you could give me his contact # or an email that I could reach him with, that would be a big help.

BTW... I was reading somwhere, that eliminating the AST has problems, there is a fix to it but I'd rather just replace the AST tank, its not TOO expensive and its there for a reason so I might as well just leave it.