okay i just bought my FD, and its acting up already. When i bought it, it was only boosting to 6lbs. (a week ago). Now it backfires (getting more frequent) and it idles like ***. Oh and for the icing, its leaking oil at the front of the motor? I think the oil leak is from the oil pan, any ideas on the boost issue and the rough idle and backfire? I am guessing a vacuum problem but i am knew to the rotary/turbo setup. Thanks to any help!

 

go here for turbo trouble shooting

http://home.istar.ca/~dvandit/turbocharger.htm

backfiring from too rich? O2 sensor? SOOO many things effect idle mixture!!

oil leak? That sucks! no advice on that... although the connectors to the oil cooler can leak if the washers were not replaced. Just a thought...

 

the boosting problems may be easy to fix. Check the couplings from the Y-pipe,it is under the black intake tubes. Then check the couplings that run to the intercooler. Oh, is it stock? How many miles on it?

 

Its mostly stock, has pfs downpipe and cat-back. Also ty-wrap job. Has 100k on the clock but 12k on mazda rebuilt installed by pfs.

also has turbosmart(?) bov.

 

Ok in searching the site given by spurvo, it says if i'm only making 6-7 lbs i could be missing my pills. Good place to start? Thanks again

 

does it have a boost controller? If not, why would the pills be missing? check the stock couplers!! Are they black? or blue? or red? or yellow?

 

yea, i would check the couplers first. thats where i found my boost leak. look for the more common and easy stuff first.

 

for the oilpan replacement, your gonna have to pull the engine...

as for the back fires, those are perfectly normal.

you are warming up the car to 180 degrees each time you start it right??? and you do got a water temp gauge right??? How often are you taking it to redline? rotaries just love to go to redline (well thats my experience with them, all of my cars love it when they go past 7500rpm and seem to run better after)


Good luck

P.S. If you do find a tear in the coupler and fix it, watch out for over boost!

 

I don't have a boost controller, i do have a turbo timer and greddy warning boost gauge. I am installing a pfs intake today so i will check out couplings. So am i not even hitting the secondary turbo? I thought i was because it goes to like .5 bar, then at 4500 drops and shoots back up to .5 bar? I thought that was the switchover. Hell if i know. I guess if i can't figure it out i'll take it to peter farrell.

 

i dont think the 2nd turbo comes on unless you are getting 8psi with the primary.
the backfiring is pretty normal because you are running rich I hope.
spark plugs could do this also

oil leanking if its coming from the pan you will have to deal with. I would also check your oil level

make sure you know your **** so you dont get ripped off

 

How much oil is it leaking? My dad overfilled his car with oil, and it blew out the front seal. Symptoms would be a 12" diameter oil puddle underneath the car.

 

Hi, I need a jap. spec ecu for mazda rx7 1986 # N322

 

Hi Casper23,

Sounds like I've got the same problem as you, mine used to boost to .8 bar drop for switch over then .8bar. But now for some unknown reason it only boosts to .5bar then drops then .5bar. Extremely annoying as it means I have trouble beating very slow cars off the lights! They'res no loss in top speed (Had 160mph out of her the other day! ) but acceleration is SERIOUSLY lacking! I'll let you know if I solve it before you do!

Rob

 

Well, considering Casper had this problem in October of 2002! I think its safe to say the car is fixed by now, or sleeping with the fishes.

As far as what Skunks said, Car feels more powerful/better after 7500rpm? I don't think so. Dyno graphs show a loss of power past 6500rpms does it not?

And you don't need to warm up the car to 180 degrees before MOVING, but definitely before boosting. In the warmer weather my temp shows around 70-80 degrees "cold-start". In this NE Cold weather it starts from 30 degrees, and I usually wait for 80-100 degrees before moving, and 170 before boosting.

 

No you dont. Motor mounts have to be removed and without removing any other components, lift the engine just enough to get oil pan out.

Edit- aaw crap didn't realize that this proplem was 2 years old! oh well I'll still leave the info there anyway.