When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Some may disagree, but those points are really just for the factory scissor jack. Jacking from there will mangle the pinch welds. They do make an adapter for the pinch weld points, but IMO it is still dicey.
I would jack from the front subframe or the chassis legs with a block of wood in between.
front center of the front subframe and the diff are the 2 jack points. you "can" jack it up from the pinch weld but like corbin said, you will mangle it. if it was already messed up then its whatever but yours is not so don't.
These work really well for the pinch weld jack points. Been using them for years with no issues. Just check them before each use as they do wear out but they are cheap to replace.
I also use them with jack-stands as I often jack from the subframe and use these on top of the jack stands at the pinch weld locations.
I just painted my pinch welds as part of my paint job and these block do not even scratch them!
The subframes can be used, but are NOT jacking points. The pinch welds are. If you use a pad like in the picture you don’t scratch them, and mine have never deformed. Most would consider me pretty ocd about things, but I’ve never worried about scratching my pinch welds and they don’t bend with even a little care.
Using a floor jack on the subframes, particularly on the front requires a lot more care with placement to avoid the oil pan, and from slipping. I’m fortunate to have a lift for most things I do underneath these days and the lift uses those pinch-weld locations set out in the owners manual. On the very rare occasions I want to put JUST the front of the car up for some reason, I use ramps and THEN carefully use a floor jack on the front subframe for more height… with stands on those factory pinch weld points.
If I want to raise just the rear of the car I’ll Jack at the differential, again with stands on the pinch-weld points.
I never put stands anywhere on the subframes.
And don’t forget to block wheels as needed.
+1 for pinch weld adapters. How do you even get to the subframe to jack on if you have your bumper on?
In my case it is a 2 stage process. Jack a bit from one pinch welds enough to get the big jack under the bumper then go from there. Once it is at the right height I remove the first jack and get the jack stands in place and lower it.
Maybe one of those low profile jacks would work but mine isn’t even close. I’m going to get a quick jack at some point.
+1 to quickjack, remember to get 4 pinchweld adapters for that too though. They make nice blocks that look like legos on the bottom so you can stack the pinch weld blocks on top of the regular blocks to get a couple inches extra height
+1 for pinch weld adapters. How do you even get to the subframe to jack on if you have your bumper on?
Another +1 on the pinch weld adapters. For jacking up the front from the subframe, you really need a long reach/low profile jack to do it. Something like this would work: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...lue-56641.html
I've been using a similar "Pittsburg" branded jack from HF for years now on my FC & FD. To clear the lip spoiler on the FC, I need to drive the front tires up onto a couple of 2x10 to get enough clearance to slip the jack under & reach the front crossmember
The subframes can be used, but are NOT jacking points. The pinch welds are. If you use a pad like in the picture you don’t scratch them, and mine have never deformed. Most would consider me pretty ocd about things, but I’ve never worried about scratching my pinch welds and they don’t bend with even a little care.
Using a floor jack on the subframes, particularly on the front requires a lot more care with placement to avoid the oil pan, and from slipping. I’m fortunate to have a lift for most things I do underneath these days and the lift uses those pinch-weld locations set out in the owners manual. On the very rare occasions I want to put JUST the front of the car up for some reason, I use ramps and THEN carefully use a floor jack on the front subframe for more height… with stands on those factory pinch weld points.
If I want to raise just the rear of the car I’ll Jack at the differential, again with stands on the pinch-weld points.
I never put stands anywhere on the subframes.
And don’t forget to block wheels as needed.
This is wrong. The FSM explicitly says to jack the car from the front subframe and the rear diff when using a floor jack. The pinch weld points are where you put the jack stands (or lift the car with a two-post lift).
This page you are showing is only talking about using the emergency jack to put a spare tire on.
I recommend against jacking the car from the pinch points, even with a pinch weld adapter, since I don't think those parts of the car are particularly strong.
I get the feeling it causes the chassis to twist a bit (the FD is not known for chassis rigidity).
You do need ramps and a low-profile jack to lift a lowered car with any sort of front lip from the subframe, though.
People have been jacking up FDs and all sorts of other cars from the punch weld points for decades. As long as you aren't folding them over, there is no problem. I wouldn't want to be rolling onto ramps just to get a jack on the subframe every time I work on it.
People have been jacking up FDs and all sorts of other cars from the punch weld points for decades. As long as you aren't folding them over, there is no problem. I wouldn't want to be rolling onto ramps just to get a jack on the subframe every time I work on it.
I’d say it’s fine if you’re working on one corner, but if you’re lifting the whole car high enough to work under it, it’s actually easier and faster to just put it on ramps and jack it up by the subframe/diff.
If you do this from one pinch weld without an adapter you’re pretty likely to bend it. It’s not so bad if you just want to get a wheel off.
This is wrong. The FSM explicitly says to jack the car from the front subframe and the rear diff when using a floor jack. The pinch weld points are where you put the jack stands (or lift the car with a two-post lift).
This page you are showing is only talking about using the emergency jack to put a spare tire on.
I recommend against jacking the car from the pinch points, even with a pinch weld adapter, since I don't think those parts of the car are particularly strong.
I get the feeling it causes the chassis to twist a bit (the FD is not known for chassis rigidity).
You do need ramps and a low-profile jack to lift a lowered car with any sort of front lip from the subframe, though.
I’m not wrong and you should re-read my post. I said the front subframe, and the rear diff can be used but they require a lot more care, especially at the front. And the pinch welds absolutely are jacking points. The only error was not singling out that the rear subframe should not to be used for either. AFAIK, everything else I said is in agreement with the FSM. You do whatever let’s you sleep at night.
Maybe the biggest takeaway I intended was to discourage placement of jackstands anywhere on the subframes just so they don’t risk scratching a pinch weld. IMO that’s silly because it’s dangerous to the car, but most especially to them. And easily avoidable.
08-11-23, 04:12 PM
