HDP

iTrader: (2)

Ha ha... I never said the engine was a rotary

matty

why go 99's? from what i have read/seen they arent an upgrade.

usma_2006

iTrader: (3)

HAHAHA... I know this was old, but I had a flashback to my first week with my first car, a 1.8L '91 Protege... I beat everything I raced, and if it beat me, I wasn't really racing...

rynberg

I need new turbos period, so it's not purely a matter of "upgrading" for me. The 99s are great new turbos, better than the 92-98 turbos, with more efficiency and quicker spool.

It was a very tough internal debate for me whether or not to get brand NEW turbos, or to go with Stage 3s, which are built with used housings. As you can see, my housings weren't reusable, at least not for a sequential situation.

I have seen a few bad sets of the old BNR rebuilds, which had me heavily leaning toward the 99s...however, conversations with Rich, Stephen, and Bryan, leaned me far enough to risk going with the Stage 3s. I hope I'm not disappointed.

matty

i think u will be happy with the new bnr's. When the time comes thats the route i will end up going or ball bearing single.

Having said that...I would buy a low mileage used set of 93-95 for cheap before buying the expensive 99s.

rynberg

I hope so...

To be honest with you, as much of a fan I am of the sequential twins, I would have gone with a very small single if I didn't have to worry about the Cali emissions laws. As much as I track the car, a nice 320-330 rwhp with great boost reliability at low psi would have been nice....

Maybe...there's a lot to be said for the quicker spool and the fact that you are getting brand new turbos...

HDP

iTrader: (2)

True, very true. I'm still waiting for my engine to take it's last spin so I can get a new one before I install my brand new '99s which have been sitting in my spare room for almost 2 years (along with a lot of other brand new parts).

rynberg

All engine parts are in, Rick should start putting my motor together next week. Bryan should be building my Stage 3s first thing next week. Possibly done in as little as 2 more weeks. Whoohoo. Car has been in shop for 2 months now.

To those who are curious and to dump a little more fuel to the flame that is the 3mm vs 2mm seal debate:

I stopped by Rick's today for a quick visit -- he had a motor torn apart that he rebuilt several years ago. The motor was streetported and had 3mm seals. The reason for the teardown was evident on one of the rotors -- detonation had occured so badly that not only was the rotor dented, but the metal was cracked, allowing oil from the interior of the rotor to leak into the combustion chamber. Despite this, NONE of the 3mm seals showed the slightest signs of any damage. In fact, after ~50k miles, the apex seals had only been worn down less than 0.5mm and looked great. To address the comments of 3mm seals tearing up rotor housings, both housings were in incredible condition with no chrome flaking or visible damage of any kind. And I KNOW that the owner of this car drives it hard, I've personally seen him powersliding the car around the corner in front of Rick's shop...

Seeing that motor today made me feel even better about trusting Rick to build my motor as he feels it should be done.

I hope Rick and the owner of the motor don't mind me posting that, I just thought it was very interesting info.

rynberg

I also got my tail lights back from Ryan Wolfe (rx7even on the forum). For those of you who haven't been on the forum long enough, Ryan was the original converter of tail lights to the "99-spec" tail lights. He has done dozens of conversions and had an impeccable reputation on the forum.

Anyway, the lights look GREAT! The lights look OEM, the quality of work is outstanding, and Ryan even cleaned/polished the lights for me! I'll post pics later.

Ryan has been in semi-retirement, but he may be willing to do more sets of lights if you are interested. I strongly urge you to do so! I have seen a set of lights converted by another forum member (who shall remain nameless) and they had flaws easily seen from a foot away. I also had reservations about the lack of professionalism displayed by some of the current tail light conversion guys on the forum.

No such worries with Ryan, he is a great guy and is professional. You can PM him (rx7even) if you are interested.

rx7what

iTrader: (6)

whats with all the deleted posts. also i hope you get the car up and running. my car has about 139,000 on my original motor and it just starting to act wierd. hard to start when hot. so im going to get her rebuilt soon. good luck.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely. Ryan did mine as well a few years ago and it was well worth the price:

https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/99-spec-fd-round-tail-lights-rx7even-work-83529/

Rynberg, take some pics of the engine work if you can.

rynberg

Whoohoo, Bryan shipped out my BNR Stage 3s today...

I'll do my best to get some pics of the motor build-up, as well as of some of the other upgrades.

Damn, I miss driving her.....2-1/2 months now.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say he prob had Mahjik delete all the unncessary posts since for a good page or so this thread become the official "how many miles do you have on YOUR engine" shoutout thread

Tyler, I bet you're gonna be coming home every day, checking, double checking, and triple checking each and every *possible* entrance and bush to see if the turbos arrived yet Keep us posted!

quicksilver_rx7

It's my fault. I was slamming this guy that posted a lame-*** comment about how long it took him to remove the valve covers from his rotary engine

Rynberg:

Definitely look forward to seeing the results of this build. I may have missed this, but what did you use as a core for the BNRs.

rynberg

Bryan (BNR) had a few good hotsides sitting around...

Oh, and Ramy, the BNRs are going straight to my mechanic...no delivery shenanigans of leaving $2400 on my porch when no one's home...

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

If Rick only wants to use 3 mm in used housing, but your getting new housings, is it his opinion that 3 mm are better even in new housings as well?

Tim

rynberg

Tim, Rick will not build a motor with used housings period (other than with very special circumstances). He does recommend 3mm seals, especially with used rotors.

As I described in post #68 above, I saw a torn-down Rick motor with 50k on it with 3mm seals. Other than the very impressive dent in one rotor from massive detonation, there was very little wear to any of the housings and none of the apex seals were broken or even very worn. And that motor was driven HARD.

3mm seals may chatter or cause housing wear at extremely high rpm (above 8k rpm), but in a more typical situation, they don't seem to cause significantly more wear and they can obviously take detonation much better than 2mm seals.

I used to think 2mm seals were better but I'm definitely being convinced otherwise...

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

that's some good info. Who does his machining on the rotors? That's another important job when using the 3mm seals. Does he do it all in house?

Tim

rynberg

I don't know who he uses but he does outsource the rotors for machining. I could ask if you're interested, it might be a local place or it might be Rotary Performance.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

That's a good idea. But it only means someone's gonna be takin extended lunch breaks or duckin out of work early to pass by the shop lol

Wow...I learn something new every day. So are 3mm seals a bad idea if you're trying to built a high revving motor? (And yes I know that means you gotta have adequate fuel, prob a 2 peice e-shaft, and a shatter shield)