It's rebuild time!
#77
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Originally Posted by Tim Benton
If Rick only wants to use 3 mm in used housing, but your getting new housings, is it his opinion that 3 mm are better even in new housings as well?
Tim
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As I described in post #68 above, I saw a torn-down Rick motor with 50k on it with 3mm seals. Other than the very impressive dent in one rotor from massive detonation, there was very little wear to any of the housings and none of the apex seals were broken or even very worn. And that motor was driven HARD.
3mm seals may chatter or cause housing wear at extremely high rpm (above 8k rpm), but in a more typical situation, they don't seem to cause significantly more wear and they can obviously take detonation much better than 2mm seals.
I used to think 2mm seals were better but I'm definitely being convinced otherwise...
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I don't know who he uses but he does outsource the rotors for machining. I could ask if you're interested, it might be a local place or it might be Rotary Performance.
#80
Originally Posted by rynberg
Oh, and Ramy, the BNRs are going straight to my mechanic...no delivery shenanigans of leaving $2400 on my porch when no one's home...
Originally Posted by rynberg
3mm seals may chatter or cause housing wear at extremely high rpm (above 8k rpm), but in a more typical situation, they don't seem to cause significantly more wear and they can obviously take detonation much better than 2mm seals.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 06-25-05 at 07:48 PM.
#81
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Originally Posted by rynberg
I used to think 2mm seals were better but I'm definitely being convinced otherwise...
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Wow...I learn something new every day. So are 3mm seals a bad idea if you're trying to built a high revving motor? (And yes I know that means you gotta have adequate fuel, prob a 2 peice e-shaft, and a shatter shield)
#82
Originally Posted by Compilez
From what I've been told by the guy building my engine, he says that the 2mm seals can't take high hp as well as the 3mm seals can. He uses Hurley Seals. He showed me an example using the corner seals for each 2 and 3mm seals.
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Originally Posted by rebuild FD
what is the approximate cost diff between 2 and 3 mm?
#85
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I'm w/ you, and I've heard the same. But I wasn't referring to a high hp motor...I was referring to a high revving motor (yea I know usually the two go hand in hand), but the point is, Rynberg was saying how the 3mm chatter at higher rpms. I was curious if that meant if you're building a high revving application (say up to 10K rpm), would you actually want 2mm seals instead? Obviously there's a trade-off here...high hp resistance vs. high rpm resistance.
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Good luck with the whole rebuild. I'm anxious to see what numbers your car puts out when its all said and done. I might just even drop by ricks to see whats up if ya dont mind. Good luck man.
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just did mine on 74K with a mild port. Welcome to the club & keep us updated. IMO id go with the BNR stage 3's you still staying sequential or going non seq?
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hey Rynberg, and all you other gurus. Besides poor mileage, rough idle, and hot starts (please explain this to me too), what are the other symptoms that an engine is blown or has a blown seal? I just want to be aware of it, so I know when it's time for me to join the club.
Also, since my car is mostly stock (see sig for mods), would it still be adviseable to go with 3mm seals?
Also, since my car is mostly stock (see sig for mods), would it still be adviseable to go with 3mm seals?
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Originally Posted by HDP
Simplified sequential... all new solenoids?
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Wow, for some reason I thought you were going non-sequential. I have no idea why I thought that though..
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Tyler (like myself) is a hardcore sequential freak
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Originally Posted by RX 4 Speed
hey Rynberg, and all you other gurus. Besides poor mileage, rough idle, and hot starts (please explain this to me too), what are the other symptoms that an engine is blown or has a blown seal? I just want to be aware of it, so I know when it's time for me to join the club.
Also, since my car is mostly stock (see sig for mods), would it still be adviseable to go with 3mm seals?
Also, since my car is mostly stock (see sig for mods), would it still be adviseable to go with 3mm seals?
#96
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Originally Posted by RX 4 Speed
hey Rynberg, and all you other gurus. Besides poor mileage, rough idle, and hot starts (please explain this to me too), what are the other symptoms that an engine is blown or has a blown seal? I just want to be aware of it, so I know when it's time for me to join the club.
Also, since my car is mostly stock (see sig for mods), would it still be adviseable to go with 3mm seals?
Also, since my car is mostly stock (see sig for mods), would it still be adviseable to go with 3mm seals?
I could pass you along some videos of how my engine acted when it was blown ( seal ). It's not just hot starts, even an unexperienced ear when familliar with what a blown engine sounds like can tell the difference on startup. Another thing which one of my videos will show is poor vacuum, you can watch the vacuum on the boost gauge just bounce and shift around about 4hg's. Also the idle, if it idle's like a cam'd v8, most likely you have problems...
The first one shows the exhaust tone / note.
The second shows the cool vacuum fluctuation on the lower gauge.
The third is a startup, note how the engine sounds like its choking before it actually starts, ignore my loud *** radar detector ;p
http://www.fd3s.cc/blown/
#99
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Originally Posted by jsplit
I could pass you along some videos of how my engine acted when it was blown ( seal ). It's not just hot starts, even an unexperienced ear when familliar with what a blown engine sounds like can tell the difference on startup. Another thing which one of my videos will show is poor vacuum, you can watch the vacuum on the boost gauge just bounce and shift around about 4hg's. Also the idle, if it idle's like a cam'd v8, most likely you have problems...
The first one shows the exhaust tone / note.
The second shows the cool vacuum fluctuation on the lower gauge.
The third is a startup, note how the engine sounds like its choking before it actually starts, ignore my loud *** radar detector ;p
http://www.fd3s.cc/blown/
The first one shows the exhaust tone / note.
The second shows the cool vacuum fluctuation on the lower gauge.
The third is a startup, note how the engine sounds like its choking before it actually starts, ignore my loud *** radar detector ;p
http://www.fd3s.cc/blown/
#100
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Ahhh. Tyler = wuss. LOL
I will always support and recommend running seq twins for a car that is primarily street driven. However, as my car becomes more and more setup for the track, a small single turbo setup for quick response and not ultimate top-end power, becomes more desirable...
I do not and will not recommend running non-seq twins on a primarily street-driven car. I'm not softening much on that issue at all.