Ok i've posted alot on this forum about my problems, but it's just gone too far. When I bought the car almost 2 years ago it was noticably slow. The only 1/4 race I had ever won was against a modded V6 Accord. I mean SLOW. I knew it was a boost problem because the car had awesome acceleration, but top end stunk. It was like the power just left after about a second of boost.

So, I got to work. After about 5 minutes of rippin' **** off the engine, it was obvious things were ghettofied. The "poor man" non-sequential mod was definitly poorly done, had a half-*** looking intake, and the exhaust was "custom" welded at every flange(stock pre-cat, modified cat-back with high-flow cat and A'pexi GT muffler). Everything else besides a Pettit ECU running 14psi was stock. The problem ended up being the secondary flapper door stuck shut. While in the engine bay I did some r+r. Installed Greddy Intake, Greddy Pulley Kit to eliminate emissions/air pump, Greddy stock intercooler piping, SPI boost gauge, did the home-depot boost controller(keeping everything at 10psi), and Rotary Performance downpipe/O2 sensor.

I decided to do a full non-sequential turbo set up. I went down the list and completed everything. I put resistors in all the solenoids but the FPR(I kept that intact). Now the car had been in the garage for a good 2-2.5 months. We started it up and everthing seemed fine until a strange idle came about. We couldnt figure out what was wrong. Took it for a drive, boosted, blew the motor. Ended up being the return and charcoal canister fuel lines were switched.

Ok, so back to square one. Recently replaced the motor with a Mazda Reman. Kept everything non-sequential and put resistors in the female ends of the solenoids. Talking to a local shop called SGP Racing, they had done the non-sequential set-up to a customers Rx7 and kept the solenoids in.
So I decided to do that and bypass the FPR solenoid. Everything ready to go. Started her up and again a strange idle, though different from the one heard when the fuel lines were backwards. I was paranoid thinking about driving it but did anyways. It seemed to be running really rich and back fired frequently. I brought it back home and decided to replace the Pettit ECU with the stock ECU just to make sure it wasnt anything to do with the ECU. Went back out again and on the way home the car was spitting fire out the exhaust with just the mods I have in the second paragraph.

Again I ripped the engine apart and thought it might be the bypassing of the FPR solenoid while keeping the solenoid on. A friend of mine had some solenoids so I thought I'd put one in the place of the FPR sol. Tried to start the car, nothing. Went back and just put resistors in the female ends, including the FPR solenoid and bypassed it. Went to start the car and it tried to start but died. I did this 3 times with the same effect.

What could possibly be going on? What have I done wrong? If there is anyway someone can come out to where I live to look the car over would be awesome and you will be paid. I am running out of patience and money with this car on such simple things. Please if there is anything that can be done pm me or reply to this post.

Please help me out, and thanks,

Andrew

 

did you check for engine codes by chance? i know this is a stupid question but i have forgot to do so and it has shown me my problem

 

you might want to elaborate a bit more on the specifics of the idle

in an unrelarted matter - if you have an ecu that runs 14psi, run a controlled 14psi (though I can see, at this particular stage, why you might want to limit power)

you see to be having a few serious issues with diy - might be a good idea just to bite the bullet and take it to a specialist, before it costs you more anyway

 

if you messed with the harnes, you might have swaped 2 green connectors. One goes to Watter thermosensor, the other to Fuel Thermosensor. I swapped these together, and i had bad idle, car dying and a lot of backfiring.

Amel

 

thanks for fast replies.

1. No codes shown at all. But I will check anyways.
2. Idles have been up and down, searching, as low as 500rpm and as high as 2000rpm.
3. Everything DIY is quite simple.
4. I will check the green sensors.

Thanks again and I hope to see more posts,

Andrew

 

Do you have pics of where these thermosensors are located?

Thanks,

Andrew

 

the water thermo is on the back of the filler neck the fuel thermo is on the sec fuel rail. also ohm the coolant temp sensor to see if it is within spec. are the plugs wired right? check the tps is ok. is the air bleed screw adjusted at all?

 

I will check all of this. Thank God for a FSM...

 

check the voltage on the fuel pump....make sure it is going to 12V...really should wire straight to pump with amp guage wire...I blew three motors before i figure it out....GET A WIDEBAND

 

You may want to consider getting a trailer and taking it down to Gotham Racing (www.gothamracing.com) - Theyre only about 4 and a half hours away, and they are certainly able to fix all your problems. But of course, always try everything you can do yourself first, just don't go boosting until you have a steady idle... also, check the MAP sensor, and the vaccum hoses it is connected to. It is located near the throttle body on the firewall side. make sure it is connected correctly and there are no leaks from the lines

 

I would first keep the stock ECU in the car, and remove any mods that aren't exhaust, DP, and intake. Then look up the non sequential Vac hose diagram on this forum, and follow it religiously. From there, find out if you have a constant Fuel pressure. If not check your Fuel filter. fluctuating idle can be a disconnected vac hose or a map sensor issue from what I've seen. Spark plugs tell alot about being rich or lean. I think that's about it. Oh yeah, and don't forget some of the ghetto parts can get you through the 1/4 mile with the same ET, and that's what counts when the hood shuts. good luck man.

 

Are you a member of our Houston RX-7 Club, and have you contacted any of our experienced members?

You can PM me.

 

A teacher and old friend of mine let me borrow his Monitor 4000E code reader and came up with these two...

45-Charge Control
32-Switch Sol. Valve

Also this is off of the Pettit ECU. I will swap them out and see if anything is different, though I think the Pettit is just a chipped stock ECU.

If anyone has more info or can tell me exactly whats wrong, please post or pm me.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

You know, you don't need a code reader - a simple jumper wire is all you need to read codes .

Both of those codes are for turbo control system solenoids - could have boost problems, but the car should run fine.

Dale

 

Well then either of the codes dont mean anything because I dont have boost problems. The charge control was taken out with the other crap when doing the non-sequential. But the switch sol. valve code I dont know about...

 

you will need a resistor in there if you removed the solenoid. you should not diagnose probs when there are engine codes to be delt with first.

 

Andrew, which side of town are you on?

 

When you drove the car was it backfiring throughout your test drive. Also is your bov venting off an unusual amount of air? I would check your map sensor, tps, and coil packs to make sure they are within specification. From what I hear fresh rotary engines will run and start shitty, so that may be part of your problem.

 

1. no engine check light has come on, just checking.
2. resistors are in all solenoids.
3. yes the car was backfiring through out most of the test drive. I dont know anything about abnormal bov air because its a new engine and im not boosting. The map sensor is hooked up, dont know anything about the TPS, coils should be good.

By the way I live in Spring on the north side of Houston.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

Just check that Green connector on the behind the coolant filler neck and the Green connector on the 2ndary fuel rail have the wires like it says here:

Fuel: brown with yellow stripe
brown with black stripe

Coolant: green with white stripe
brown with black stripe

 

So am I. I'm off of Louetta.

 

Sorry I meant to say at idle, if you were getting a lot of blow out. The reason that I have asked is in my experience when the blow off valve vents an unusual amount of air, it has been vacuum related.

 

I checked, the fuel/water thermosensors are in the right places. About the BOV, now the car wont even start so...I cant check that.

 

Andrew, I live in Spring off of Louetta. Where are you at. Maybe I can come by and check it out.

 

In the neighborhood Memorial Northwest.