It's gone too far(beware, large post)...
#27
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pull your plugs and see if there are massive amounts of fuel on them. you may have a leaky primary injector, or a leaky o ring. last time i put my car back together, i crimped an o ring on one of the primary injectors, and it caused it to backfire and smoke, and even the exhaust was red hot all the way back to the muffler
#30
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Well I've been going to the Munday Mazda now everyday I get off work. The tech working on my car is named Mike. Mike has appearently been working with rotarys since 1983. Seems like a cool guy that actually knows what he's doing...
but anyways back on the subject...
As everyone else knew, the main problem ended up being something small and overlooked quite often. The check valve on the MAP sensor vaccumm hose was backwards. Though the car will start, it still runs too rich and after warm up the car kinda sputters and looses idle. But hopefully the problems will be worked out soon.
Thanks for the interest,
Andrew
but anyways back on the subject...
As everyone else knew, the main problem ended up being something small and overlooked quite often. The check valve on the MAP sensor vaccumm hose was backwards. Though the car will start, it still runs too rich and after warm up the car kinda sputters and looses idle. But hopefully the problems will be worked out soon.
Thanks for the interest,
Andrew
#31
Will u do me a kindness?
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Originally Posted by dcfc3s
You know, you don't need a code reader - a simple jumper wire is all you need to read codes .
Both of those codes are for turbo control system solenoids - could have boost problems, but the car should run fine.
Dale
Both of those codes are for turbo control system solenoids - could have boost problems, but the car should run fine.
Dale
#32
Originally Posted by RotaSpinna69
Well I've been going to the Munday Mazda now everyday I get off work. The tech working on my car is named Mike. Mike has appearently been working with rotarys since 1983. Seems like a cool guy that actually knows what he's doing...
but anyways back on the subject...
As everyone else knew, the main problem ended up being something small and overlooked quite often. The check valve on the MAP sensor vaccumm hose was backwards. Though the car will start, it still runs too rich and after warm up the car kinda sputters and looses idle. But hopefully the problems will be worked out soon.
Thanks for the interest,
Andrew
but anyways back on the subject...
As everyone else knew, the main problem ended up being something small and overlooked quite often. The check valve on the MAP sensor vaccumm hose was backwards. Though the car will start, it still runs too rich and after warm up the car kinda sputters and looses idle. But hopefully the problems will be worked out soon.
Thanks for the interest,
Andrew
#36
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Well its back to the beginning. What I didnt tell everyone about before was why I replaced the engine, not really that I had a blown apex seal, but because SGP Racing said I did. What was happening was that when at idle the car was fine but when you rev it up into boost range or when the secondary injectors come on, the car tends to die. SGP Racing said it was a blown apex seal. So I replaced the engine. Then I was having the problems stated on page 1. Now that is fixed and I have the same problem before the install. I'm at the dealership pretty much every other day now, and Mike showed me what was going on and that the car was only seeing about 1-2 pounds of boost. The only thing I can think of was when I was wanting to get my wastegate ported, the guy at SGP said not to cause it had some small cracks. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Andrew
Thanks,
Andrew
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driftfcbuckey
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12-02-15 05:48 PM