jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Got a recent problem with my brakes and I hope someone can help. So my rear brakes begun to bind lately becoming hot and smelly. This has happened in the past and required removal of the rear pistons and a through clean. I did this again this time and the pistons were loosened up. However, the brakes begun to bind again after pressing the brake pedal and I soon figured out that it is not the pistons being tight in the calipers anymore but the hydraulic pressure in the brake lines not being relived when releasing the pedal. If I open the rear bleed valve the wheel frees up immediately Does this indicates a problem in the master cylinder. Could it be a blockage in the relief port in the Master Cylinder. Is there anyone with experience on this.

Beans912

Sounds like the brake hose.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Did you reverse the rear pins?

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

What could be wrong with the hose? Please explain

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Hey Narfle, not sure which pins you are referring to. Is it the bolt/pin that the calliper slide on?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Similar issue on another car of mine. The inner lining of the hose failed and effectively created a check-valve. Fluid could only move one direction.
That was on an antique car and the line was just really old. But it’s also a reason you don’t want to otherwise stress the lines and support the calipers during brake work.

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Well this makes a lot of sense, and I did have the calliper hanging on the hose momentarily. Hoping that this the case and not the Master Cylinder.
Any other suggestions to Isolate this problem of the lines remaining pressurized even after the pedal is released?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Yes, they are labelled L & G and should not be swapped.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Worth checking everything but I think if it were the pins binding the pads, bleeding fluid wouldn’t have helped.

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

What does L and G mean? Is there anywhere in the FSM that details this?

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

It’s stamped on the bracket or the caliper which hole the L and G bolts go into.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

http://www.wright-here.net/files/man...ing_System.pdf

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the FSM diagram.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Sure no worries. Should be pretty easy to lay under the rear and verify which pin is in which hole by the letter stamped on the head.

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Update: It turns out I did have the L & G pins reversed. On both wheels. I also went ahead a full bleed on the system flushing out all the old fluid. It is not maintaining hydraulic pressure anymore with the pedal released. However, I have only tried it with the motor off(no booster assist) so far. I'll see what happens with a full test. If the problem persists, I suppose the master cylinder will have to be removed.

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Took the car out for a full test today. The brakes work perfect now. No more issues​​​​​​.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for posting this thread. Apparently my bolts have been backwards on both sides for a better part of 2019

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

Subscribed for next time I do my brakes I can check it out.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I'm not certain of the implications of reversing those pins, but I still don't think that was the OP's only issue. If it had been, bleeding shouldn't have had any effect. And if reversing the pins caused the pads to bind, you would have probably noticed a lot earlier.

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

I agree, the binding was coming from hydraulic pressure not being relived after releasing the pedal. I believe purging the old brake fluid and properly bleeding the system is what really solved the problem.