HELP!!! SE susp swap: bled the brakes 5 times, on the 2nd mstr cyl, still no pedal!
#1
HELP!!! SE susp swap: bled the brakes 5 times, on the 2nd mstr cyl, still no pedal!
alright, got all the GSL-se suspension and brake stuff into my 82.
Remaned calipers and Thermoquiet brake pads all around.
Stainless braided hoses.
New hard lines on the rear axle.
I rebuilt and honed the original SE Master cylinder. Bench bled the master on the car, Vacuum bled the calipers one at a time, twice in a row. pedal still goes to the floor. I get some braking pressure, which will stop the car, but not the rock hard pedal I should have. With the car running it feels like nothing is there.
so I get a new remaned master from champion. Bench bleed that and twice around bleed out the calipers again. felt about the same. then my buddy Mike comes over and we manually blead each caliper. Strong flow of fluid from each caliper and it is perfectly clear, no airation.
Still no pedal. So Im thinking maybe its the dot 4+ valvoline synthetic fluid Im using, its extra thin for ABS system.
So I flush all that out with some cheap Advance Auto brake fluid. Bench bled and vacumme bled.
still no pedal,
WTF is going on, I work as a mechanic and do brake work all the time but this makes no sense.
Ill be getting a 3rd master cylinder in by the end of this week.
Its either the master, or the proportioning valve
the proportioning valve is the only thing I did not replace, I sprayed some brake cleaner through it, as I looked pretty dirty. but why would that give me a dead pedal?
Remaned calipers and Thermoquiet brake pads all around.
Stainless braided hoses.
New hard lines on the rear axle.
I rebuilt and honed the original SE Master cylinder. Bench bled the master on the car, Vacuum bled the calipers one at a time, twice in a row. pedal still goes to the floor. I get some braking pressure, which will stop the car, but not the rock hard pedal I should have. With the car running it feels like nothing is there.
so I get a new remaned master from champion. Bench bleed that and twice around bleed out the calipers again. felt about the same. then my buddy Mike comes over and we manually blead each caliper. Strong flow of fluid from each caliper and it is perfectly clear, no airation.
Still no pedal. So Im thinking maybe its the dot 4+ valvoline synthetic fluid Im using, its extra thin for ABS system.
So I flush all that out with some cheap Advance Auto brake fluid. Bench bled and vacumme bled.
still no pedal,
WTF is going on, I work as a mechanic and do brake work all the time but this makes no sense.
Ill be getting a 3rd master cylinder in by the end of this week.
Its either the master, or the proportioning valve
the proportioning valve is the only thing I did not replace, I sprayed some brake cleaner through it, as I looked pretty dirty. but why would that give me a dead pedal?
#3
love the braaaap
Bench bleed the master on the BENCH, then install it on the car. After that, manually bleed each caliper the old fashion way, starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder. If that still doesn't solve your problem, look into the brake booster. Mabey its got a problem?
#4
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And don't push the pedal to the floor when bleeding the brakes, that ***** up the master cylinder. Never go more than halfway down when bleeding.
#5
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
Bench bleed the master on the BENCH, then install it on the car. After that, manually bleed each caliper the old fashion way, starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder. If that still doesn't solve your problem, look into the brake booster. Mabey its got a problem?
but the pedal should be rock hard with the car off, and really firm with it on. It is really soft.
I put a new master and two new calipers on my Ford Probe, and had no problems like this. I didnt even bleed them as thoroughly as I have here, with much better results.
Originally Posted by $100T2
And don't push the pedal to the floor when bleeding the brakes, that ***** up the master cylinder. Never go more than halfway down when bleeding.
I had the LF caliper line hooked into the master when I was bleeding it out, but it was already full of fluid.
#6
Originally Posted by $100T2
And don't push the pedal to the floor when bleeding the brakes, that ***** up the master cylinder. Never go more than halfway down when bleeding.
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Originally Posted by 82streetracer
yeah, Ive never heard that either.
and does someone know the bleeder thread sizes, im looking to get some speed bleeders
and does someone know the bleeder thread sizes, im looking to get some speed bleeders
If it is a once every couple of years thing, they might work, but I bleed 7-8 times per year (I do a lot of track events) and the Speed bleeders just don't hold up.
Last edited by imabyter; 08-30-06 at 01:15 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by Onlyonthurs
^^When you bleed the actual master cylider out side of the car (not installed).
and I dont plan on using the "Speed bleeder" brand, Russle just came out with a new one, where it has a spring loaded conical seat, instead of a check ball. ALthough fluid may run through the threads, it is getting sealed at the cone and not in the bleeder.
#12
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Originally Posted by $100T2
And don't push the pedal to the floor when bleeding the brakes, that ***** up the master cylinder. Never go more than halfway down when bleeding.
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I would get some plugs that would screw into the ports on the m/c and after bench bleeding it, block off the ports. Then if you install the m/c into the car and try the pedal (gently) it should be hard and not go down at all. Then Hook up the line to the rear brakes and bleed them and try the pedal again. If it is still hard, then hook up the fronts and bleed them. This may help pinpoint where your problem is.
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