jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

I bought the engine without motor mounts. I torqued the mounts down and installed the engine. Had a leak which was expected (I was just learning). I then bought a Banzai brace, black RTV, and sealed the pan. Still a drip on the driver side.
I toughed through it but am in the process of cleaning wiring and my engine bay (engine out on a stand) so I spun it upside down, re-sealed it, and spun it it so the intake was up right again (with the flywheel pointing lower to the ground).
Then engine sat on the stand with NO oil in it for a few weeks yet there was still a small oil drip on the driver side motor mount.
I then thought it was the rear main seal or the rear stationary gear seal so I proceeded to replace those.
Right after those were replaced, I installed the engine. The engine has been in the car for a few months and when I looked underneath, there was still a small drip. Engine still has not been filled with oil.

Can someone give me some insight on this? Did I crack the rear iron or something?

NVMYRX-7

iTrader: (24)

I'm thinking you might need a new oil pan.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Bought a good condition one and swapped it before installing the engine. Same thing

MGB11

iTrader: (9)

Did you check to make sure that all of the engine sections (rotor housings and irons) were level with each other? Next time the oil pan is off check to make sure there are not any uneven surfaces. A small file can take care of any issues with this. Just be careful not to get metal shavings in the engine.

NVMYRX-7

iTrader: (24)

Did you buy a NEW one? A good condition one could still be uneven and cause issues.

ska*utomatic

iTrader: (3)

i used this method with a decent pan and didn't see so much as a hint of an oil leak. so with your pan it should work really well

link to another forum deleted

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

DR side oil leak can come from further up on the engine as well.

Oil filter pedestal could have hardened o-rings.

Oil pressure sender could be leaking at threads.

Upper dowel o-ring could be hardened from heat and seeping between the rotor and end housings.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Will look into it closer, thanks guys

Radial GT

iTrader: (16)

I had a leaky engine once that was "rebuilt" without a dowel pin o ring at all... Leaked forever..

If you are certain its from the pan, I would use hondabond because it is amazing stuff. I use hondabond for everything now and have had very good luck with it.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Mines stock as far as I know, but leaked as long as I've had it, I wouldn't doubt if it were a dowel pin leak. Hopefully it's one of the listed solutions though haha