interior paint
#4
you are planning to paint the trim pieces right? i would recommend a model paint. i used Testor's Metalizer series. Used Lacquer Thinner to strip the old paint (works VERY well). Then used a model primer to make sure, put a few coats of that on. Then I put maybe 5-7 coats of the actual paint on, then on top of that used the specified sealer (clear coat) for the metalizer line, and put aother 5-6 coats. I tried to scratch off after it dried a day or two, and trust me, it is gonna take more than hands and fingernails to get that paint off. A lot tougher than the stock paint by far. The clear coat sealer did add a little gloss to it, but I think it looks nice. Also, the Metalizer series offers quit a few different silver/grayish colors. Anything from aluminum to gunmetal. I went with their nonbuffing steel color, kinda light, but like I said, I like it. Any model shop shoud be able to get ahold of the stuff, or go through Testors.com.
Oh yeah, I used the airbrush stuff. I went to Walmart and bought the kit that has a can of air that you can use to airbrush models with and used that. Didn't feel like getting too much into it. Feel free to ask any other questions.
Oh yeah, I used the airbrush stuff. I went to Walmart and bought the kit that has a can of air that you can use to airbrush models with and used that. Didn't feel like getting too much into it. Feel free to ask any other questions.
#5
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
I'm currently in the process of paint the center console pieces.
Here's my process:
Using the following products:
ELO (Easy Lift Off) to remove the old paint
Tamiya Metallic Black Paint
Tamiya Clear Coat
Apply ELO generously to the panel with a rag or tissue (don't soak it in a tub) and let it sit overnight (if you let it sit overnight, it saves having to apply ELO to the panel more than once). The next day (you'll see the old paint bubbled up all over the panel), use something like a SOS pad or something with a rough side to scub off the paint in some warm soapy water.
Let the part dry for a few hours. After the part is dry, if you have any nicks, you can sand them down if you like and then wash it down once more.
Now it's ready to paint. What I've been doing is applying 1 nice, even coat per day (let it sit for 24 hours) for 3 days, so 3 coats. Then doing 1 coat of clear.
So far it's looking nice!
Here's my process:
Using the following products:
ELO (Easy Lift Off) to remove the old paint
Tamiya Metallic Black Paint
Tamiya Clear Coat
Apply ELO generously to the panel with a rag or tissue (don't soak it in a tub) and let it sit overnight (if you let it sit overnight, it saves having to apply ELO to the panel more than once). The next day (you'll see the old paint bubbled up all over the panel), use something like a SOS pad or something with a rough side to scub off the paint in some warm soapy water.
Let the part dry for a few hours. After the part is dry, if you have any nicks, you can sand them down if you like and then wash it down once more.
Now it's ready to paint. What I've been doing is applying 1 nice, even coat per day (let it sit for 24 hours) for 3 days, so 3 coats. Then doing 1 coat of clear.
So far it's looking nice!
#7
save yourself the trouble of taking your interior apart twice and just get it painted by a body shop w/ auto body paint... i originally painted my interior w/ testors model paint and clear coat but it just wasn't durable enough, after a while it started to show a lot of wear around where i would rest my arm, etc.
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by potatobbq
save yourself the trouble of taking your interior apart twice and just get it painted by a body shop w/ auto body paint... i originally painted my interior w/ testors model paint and clear coat but it just wasn't durable enough, after a while it started to show a lot of wear around where i would rest my arm, etc.
save yourself the trouble of taking your interior apart twice and just get it painted by a body shop w/ auto body paint... i originally painted my interior w/ testors model paint and clear coat but it just wasn't durable enough, after a while it started to show a lot of wear around where i would rest my arm, etc.
#9
Originally posted by potatobbq
save yourself the trouble of taking your interior apart twice and just get it painted by a body shop w/ auto body paint... i originally painted my interior w/ testors model paint and clear coat but it just wasn't durable enough, after a while it started to show a lot of wear around where i would rest my arm, etc.
save yourself the trouble of taking your interior apart twice and just get it painted by a body shop w/ auto body paint... i originally painted my interior w/ testors model paint and clear coat but it just wasn't durable enough, after a while it started to show a lot of wear around where i would rest my arm, etc.
Your's does look VERY nice. What brand and color did you use for that?
Thanks
#10
Yes what brand and color of paint did you use? I have an air gun for touching up automotive finishes, and I think your color is the best I have seen. I am definately interested.
#11
Not too sure what exact brand and color paint the body shop used to paint my interior... I just told em to match the Testors Dark Gunmetal color that I had originally painted them and that's the color they came up with. I'm sure there's plenty of shades of dark grey that will look good.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
acha3
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-06-15 08:14 AM