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Installing Garfinkle oil brace, any tips?

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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 01:21 AM
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Question Installing Garfinkle oil brace, any tips?

Hey everyone, so I'm finally going to get around to installing my oil pan brace; hopefully this will put an end to the dreaded motor mount leak. Anyway, I don't have a cherry picker or a lift, so I'm going to be doing this job on jackstands.

I'm just wondering how I should attack this task. So far I've read that it's doable with a jack/jackstands, but I'd just like tips that might make this job easier..

I'm going to jack up the car and once it's secure on the sands i'll probably jack up the engine from a solid part of the transmission, does this sound viable? Hopefully this will give me a little clearance to remove the oil pan and clean up the mounting surface and subframe.

Another question: I was reading and it seems as though some people don't use any sealant when putting the pan back on because it isn't needed. I was thinking about using some type of silicone like "the right stuff" as well as adding the brace; hopefully this would maximize my chances of holding off leaks. Any opinions on this issue?

And last but not least, if I do not shave down my motor mounts, and I add this brace, will my crossover pipe still clear my strut bar? Hmm... sorry for so many questions....I have searched. These are just a few things I would like to clarify prior to taking on this task. Thanks!
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 01:24 AM
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Yes, use the right stuff silicone without a stock gasket. jacking from the tranny pan will work.

you'll have to drop the subframe down to get clearance to remove the oil pan.

the first time you do it, it's huge pain in the *** job, in my opinion.

how bad is your leak? usually i tell customers just to wait until we have the engine out of the car.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 01:39 AM
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The leak actually isn't very bad. It will accumulate maybe a dollar coin sized leak overnight. The problem is, I want to take the car to an Auto-x practice session on October 6th. I don't exactly know how strict they are in regards to things like this (if it's anything like a drag strip, the slightest drip would get me kicked out for this reason, I don't want to be the unlucky guy who is kicked off the lot for a drop of oil lol

You mentioned dropping the subframe....i was REALLY hoping I wouldn't have to do this in order to add the brace, but I guess I was wrong. Upon removal of the subframe, wouldn't it be out of alignment? Guess this is gonna be tougher than I thought.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 03:07 AM
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i had a leak just like you and bought this brace. i first thought that i could put it on by myself but i got it done at mazdatrix cause of dropping the subframe. it came out to like 330 for the install.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 06:14 AM
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On an autocross tech inspection, the important thing is that it's not dripping. If it makes a drop every few minutes it won't be noticed.

Dave
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Hmm...maybe I can pass through the tech inspection without putting the pan brace on for now. It's at most a few drops overnight since the majority of the leak is fixed (I put all new gaskets on the oil feed/return lines.)

It would definitely be a case of bad luck if I were to leak a drop right in front of the tech guy considering how little it leaks throughout the day! ahhaa

EjCabrera: You say you had Mazdatrix install the pan brace; since they dropped the subframe, did have to do any re-alignment work?

I really can't wait to eventually get this brace on, time to say good bye to oil leaks!!

- Ulysses A.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 01:01 PM
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u dont have to remove the control arms when dropping the sub frame.......hence there should be no need for an alignment after......take the front wheels off...... unbolt the steering rack from the sub frame...unbolt the motor mounts........and then the six bolts/nuts that hold the subframe to the unibody...........make sure you have good support under the transmission to support it and the engine.....
u might wanna remove the front sway bar 2(cant remember if it gets in the way)

Definetly a bit of a pain in the ***..........i wouldnt want to do it on jackstands........but it can be done
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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The above reads well go with it .If you have any other questions call me .Read the sealer directions and see what the cure time is before adding the oil .Be sure to clean the pan and motor surfaces well,and get the sealer out of the bolt holes so you do not crack a housing . I have to do it on jack stands and the job is not that bad .I would do them all day long for $ 330 per car .
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Good to hear from the man with the master plan himself! Gives me a bit more confidence to do the job on jack stands if you say it doesn't seem to be a problem. You have pm!
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 08:31 PM
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Definitely use a tap and die set to clean the threads out----m6x1.0 does the trick.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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I had my FD for 5 1/2 yrs and it always had an oil leak. I've taken it to shops and it would be ok for a week and start again. I recently rebuilt my motor and used the Garfinkle brace, now my garage floor stays dry.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 05:01 PM
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anyone have problems w/ the noltec motor mounts w/ this brace and clearance issues?
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by G's 3rd Gen
anyone have problems w/ the noltec motor mounts w/ this brace and clearance issues?
Garrett, I use the Gotham brace and Noltec mounts (along with the Moroso stud kit) on the majority of customer builds, and havent had any issues at all. The Noltecs use the stock arms, why would there be issues?
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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Sorry to bump such an old thread. I finally got the subframe down and all the bolts and motor mounts off but the oil pan is stuck pretty tight with the sealer. Do I just use a big screw driver and pry it off? I don't want to bend the pan (though the area that is leaking looks bent) or mess up the bottom of the engine surface.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 11:25 PM
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use a flat blade puddy knife and work it in over one of the irons not the rotor housings because they are softer aluminum. a dead blow hammer does a good job to work the pan loose after you have broke the seal but dont hit too hard cause you'll bend the pan!!!
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by G's 3rd Gen
anyone have problems w/ the noltec motor mounts w/ this brace and clearance issues?
I did have issues using my Noltec's and this mount. The Noltec's and this brace are a great product infact I have a writeup for this but it is in French. If you wanna do a little google translate the post can be found here:

http://www.clubrxquebec.com/forum/sh...45&postcount=1

The problem I encountered was that the Noltec's already raise the engine a little and this raises it a little more by itself this is not a problem and the engine is by no means comming out of the hood. However, using this combo with my M2 Medium the piping wouldn't allow me to fit a strut bar. I say a strut bar because I was and am using the Cusco which is the highest of all the strutbars so it is doubtful it would have fit with any other strutbar.

Luckily I have a friend with I believe it is called a "Ram Turret Milling Machine" so he machined my motor mount stub arms down and now rather than missing 1/8 of clearance I have 1/8 clearance.

I completely removed the subframe and at the same time took advantage of the situation by PORing my subframe and motor mount arms as well as oil pan.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dradon03
I did have issues using my Noltec's and this mount. The Noltec's and this brace are a great product infact I have a writeup for this but it is in French. If you wanna do a little google translate the post can be found here:

http://www.clubrxquebec.com/forum/sh...45&postcount=1

The problem I encountered was that the Noltec's already raise the engine a little and this raises it a little more by itself this is not a problem and the engine is by no means comming out of the hood. However, using this combo with my M2 Medium the piping wouldn't allow me to fit a strut bar. I say a strut bar because I was and am using the Cusco which is the highest of all the strutbars so it is doubtful it would have fit with any other strutbar.

Luckily I have a friend with I believe it is called a "Ram Turret Milling Machine" so he machined my motor mount stub arms down and now rather than missing 1/8 of clearance I have 1/8 clearance.

I completely removed the subframe and at the same time took advantage of the situation by PORing my subframe and motor mount arms as well as oil pan.

thanks for the write-up.

Do you happen to remember how much you milled your motor mount down by?
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dradon03
I did have issues using my Noltec's and this mount.....
The problem I encountered was that the Noltec's already raise the engine a little and this raises it a little more
The engine pictured has Noltecs w/the Garfinkle brace. I've since picked up a Mazdaspeed tower brace which archs up more than the stock and increases the clearances a little more.
------> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-height-raised-oil-pan-brace-755290/
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:15 AM
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Hi, long time no see...

Hi, it's great to hear from you after such a long time!
Now, how about giving my money back since you never sent me the twins and you received the money?

Did you steal the oil pan brace as well?

For those interested, here's the thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-members-185/optimus-prime-has-taken-my-money-not-delivered-twins-704186/

I cannot believe you show up here again happily and use this forum.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:45 AM
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^Please look at the date when the thread was started.
Looks like OptimusPrime hasn't been on the board since October 2007.

Originally Posted by 7racer
Do you happen to remember how much you milled your motor mount down by?
The thickness of the Garfinkle brace is 3/16 ".
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
^Please look at the date when the thread was started.
Looks like OptimusPrime hasn't been on the board since October 2007.


The thickness of the Garfinkle brace is 3/16 ".
Sorry, my mistake
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gio64
Sorry, my mistake
No appologies necessary...at least not for me. I'd be pissed too.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 7racer
thanks for the write-up.

Do you happen to remember how much you milled your motor mount down by?
Didn't see you above post. Wanted to say don't worry about being gentle with the pan you will need to straighten it after anyways. I took a small crow bar to take off the pan.

I milled down the stub basically the we milled the thickness of the brace off the motor mount arms. FWIW I use the Garfinkle Torque Arm as well and I think it does a great job.

-- It is flattering in a way to be answering questions from people so much more knowledgeable and experienced than myself.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by catch-22
use a flat blade puddy knife and work it in over one of the irons not the rotor housings because they are softer aluminum. a dead blow hammer does a good job to work the pan loose after you have broke the seal but dont hit too hard cause you'll bend the pan!!!
That did the trick! Thanks!
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dradon03
Didn't see you above post. Wanted to say don't worry about being gentle with the pan you will need to straighten it after anyways. I took a small crow bar to take off the pan.

I milled down the stub basically the we milled the thickness of the brace off the motor mount arms. FWIW I use the Garfinkle Torque Arm as well and I think it does a great job.

-- It is flattering in a way to be answering questions from people so much more knowledgeable and experienced than myself.
I wish I had more experience. I'm just a weekend mechanic...and a bad one at that. You should see the mess in my garage right now.

But as we say in medicine "see one, do one, teach one..."
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