Raszaron

I just installed my HPP 2-in-1 Brace on my 1993 RX7. So I thought I would share MY install thoughts, tips, and tricks, to get it done in one day, rather than me taking about a week to get it all done (poor planning on my part!).

You Tube video explaining some of the challenges:
Make sure you have everything you are going to need before starting this project.
A. Brace, studs, nuts, tools, PB Blaster, car battery, jumper cables... did I just say car battery and jumper cables?!?! YES!
B. Tools for my install:
- Air Wrench and Air Compressor
- 2x 22mm open/closed end wrenches and 1x Air rated Socket
- 1x 21mm open/closed end wrenches and 1x Air rated Socket
- 1x 14mm open/closed end wrench and socket
- 1x 12mm open/closed end wrench and socket
- 1x 10mm socket
- applicable sized ratchet
- PB Blaster
- shop towels (to clean up dripping PB Blaster)
- Anti-seize
- Car battery and jumper cable
- Light source (always helps under the car!)


Steps and Tools required:

—- if you still have your aluminum and plastic shields use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove them (gives extra space!)

1. 21mm wrench = to remove the nuts from the studs that connect PPF to Diff (socket and air gun work great here)
On my application, you cannot use both stock 14mm flange nuts to remove the studs
-Home Depot; got 6 grade 8.8 nuts ruined 5 (if you use these, then you will need a 22mm wrench and socket as well)
Tread pitch of the studs and nuts is 14x1.5
I tried everything I could think of to remove the studs: double nut, Torch (heat the studs), PB Blaster, begging, praying...

Then I used electrolysis*. This is where the car battery and jumper cables come in. It your studs have never been removed, chances are they are going to be extremely hard to get out... or you ruin lots of nuts trying.
*Procedure: 1. liberally coat studs with PB Blaster
2. Make sure your car battery is disconnected (both positive (+) and negative (-); I used my car’s old battery!)
3. Place battery on some type of insulator from the actual ground (wood, shop towels, cardboard, etc.)
4. Connect jumper cables to (+) and (-) terminals
5. Connect other end of jumper cables to studs you want to remove; (+) on one and (-) on the other.
- in about 20 seconds you are going to here the PB Blaster sizzling
- the positive connected stud will become extremely hot
6. Then when hearing the sizzle, reverse the cables (+) on other stud and (-) on the extremely hot stud
7. After about another 20 seconds it will sizzle again.
8. Use double nut method to remove studs (the factory green lock tight and any corrosion will break free)
- still took some effort, but my studs came out freely

2. 14mm wrench = remove four of the differential cover bolts (socket with ratchet will work for at least the lower two diff cover bolts).
3. 12mm wrench = remove the 12mm bolts holding the most rearward tunnel brace (2 on each side)
(This brace is removed and the HPP 2-in-1 replaces it - I’m looking to see if I can add it though)
4. Once all these are removed, lift the brace up into place and I found that putting the four diff cover bolts in to hold the brace up makes everything easier (don’t snug them down yet!)
5. Install the two studs (If you need new studs it is either Mazda Part# R526-17-103 or 14x1.5 - 75mm long). Torque to 47-63 ftlbs
6. Install the four 12mm bolts (may need to use the provided spacers with the kit - I did with my installation). Torque to 14-19 ftlbs
7. Tighten the 14mm bolts (the top two diff cover bolts may be hard to Torque down due to the subframe). Torque to 28-38 ftlbs
8. Install the 21 mm flange nuts on the studs (if need new ones, Bellmetric sells them: NTLH14x1.5BLK). Torque to 109-130 ftlbs

All Torque numbers are from the service manual.

*** Once again, this was my install, not all installs go the same way so I take no responsibility if my write-up doesn’t work for you, or you do something that shouldn’t be done! :-)