Torque Spec (two studs on rear of transmision)
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
From: Fort McMurray, AB
Torque Spec (two studs on rear of transmision)
Hey guys,
I can't seem to find in the manual the torque spec for these two studs that allow the ppf to attach to it. I know its 109-130 ft-lbs for the nuts, do that mean the studs have to be torque this this as well.
I can't seem to find in the manual the torque spec for these two studs that allow the ppf to attach to it. I know its 109-130 ft-lbs for the nuts, do that mean the studs have to be torque this this as well.
Stud torque, as in you're installing fresh studs?
I would (personally) just thread them in until they're snug, then a bit further (probably somewhere between Finger Tight and German Tight). Unless the threads are reversed where they mount to the transmission body itself then torquing down the nuts should serve to also set the required tension.
It's been a few years since I built my engine (using as a similar analogy), but I want to say that the instructions for installing the aftermarket engine studs implied that you'd torque the studs into the front iron using a significantly lower ft/lb rating than what the final torque would be of the nuts themselves.
Worst case situation, when you go to remove the nuts to free up the PPF you'd just remove the stud along with the nut, and then just back two other nuts against each other to break the original nut free, before reinstalling the stud.
I'm just thinking out loud on this one, so if somebody comes along with a more definitive answer, from an authoritative source, then please go with that..
I would (personally) just thread them in until they're snug, then a bit further (probably somewhere between Finger Tight and German Tight). Unless the threads are reversed where they mount to the transmission body itself then torquing down the nuts should serve to also set the required tension.
It's been a few years since I built my engine (using as a similar analogy), but I want to say that the instructions for installing the aftermarket engine studs implied that you'd torque the studs into the front iron using a significantly lower ft/lb rating than what the final torque would be of the nuts themselves.
Worst case situation, when you go to remove the nuts to free up the PPF you'd just remove the stud along with the nut, and then just back two other nuts against each other to break the original nut free, before reinstalling the stud.
I'm just thinking out loud on this one, so if somebody comes along with a more definitive answer, from an authoritative source, then please go with that..
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
From: Fort McMurray, AB
Thanks for thr reply. Yeah the threads are the same on both sides. This is a rebuilt transmission from pettit racing so the studs weren't there. My original transmission when I removed the nuts one stud stayed in there but the other came out with the nut. The one that stayed in there came out with minimal force. I guess this scenario also applies to the two studs on the front side of the engine block. The fsm dont indicate a torque spec for these either.
I keep a torque chart on my wall as a cheat sheet/guide.
Similar to this, though mine includes the nearest metric equivalent:
https://spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionD/D48.pdf
Its usually a good starting point, but in no way is definitive.
Similar to this, though mine includes the nearest metric equivalent:
https://spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionD/D48.pdf
Its usually a good starting point, but in no way is definitive.
Stud torque, as in you're installing fresh studs?
I would (personally) just thread them in until they're snug, then a bit further (probably somewhere between Finger Tight and German Tight). Unless the threads are reversed where they mount to the transmission body itself then torquing down the nuts should serve to also set the required tension.
It's been a few years since I built my engine (using as a similar analogy), but I want to say that the instructions for installing the aftermarket engine studs implied that you'd torque the studs into the front iron using a significantly lower ft/lb rating than what the final torque would be of the nuts themselves.
Worst case situation, when you go to remove the nuts to free up the PPF you'd just remove the stud along with the nut, and then just back two other nuts against each other to break the original nut free, before reinstalling the stud.
I'm just thinking out loud on this one, so if somebody comes along with a more definitive answer, from an authoritative source, then please go with that..
I would (personally) just thread them in until they're snug, then a bit further (probably somewhere between Finger Tight and German Tight). Unless the threads are reversed where they mount to the transmission body itself then torquing down the nuts should serve to also set the required tension.
It's been a few years since I built my engine (using as a similar analogy), but I want to say that the instructions for installing the aftermarket engine studs implied that you'd torque the studs into the front iron using a significantly lower ft/lb rating than what the final torque would be of the nuts themselves.
Worst case situation, when you go to remove the nuts to free up the PPF you'd just remove the stud along with the nut, and then just back two other nuts against each other to break the original nut free, before reinstalling the stud.
I'm just thinking out loud on this one, so if somebody comes along with a more definitive answer, from an authoritative source, then please go with that..