Marck

iTrader: (2)

So me and Rob&FC tried to remove my differential and we are stumped on one part. The three bolts the mount on the differential, we removed them and how do we remove the differential itself out? what are the necessary steps to remove and put it back on? i need to go to school on monday and the bus doesnt sound that awesome. Any help i would aprreciate thanks

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

Seriously?

First go get the FSM from fc3s.org or even a hayne's manual.

If you still can't figure it out do a quick search and i'm sure a ton of thread's will apear about how to remove/install the differential.


Here's some quick spoon feeding for you though-

1. Disconnect driveshshaft
2. Unbolt the half shaft's from the differential
3. 2 stud's with nut's on them on the underside of the car hold the top half of the differential into the car
4. Another brace on the front nose of the differential hold's the front which is the differential mount that is commonly talked about
5. Drop the differential with a floor jack

Now I could drop it and install the other one for you for the cost of fuel plus an hourly road service fee of $97 an hour from the time I leave my shop to the time I finish working on your car. Figure about 1.5 hour's to get to you + 1 hour to drop the differential + 2 hour's to re-install your new differential. Could take longer or less time, depend's on what I run into. Total of around $500 or so

Marck

iTrader: (2)

no were just stump because do we have to remove the cross brace? because theres no clearance nor can we even pull of the diff down i mean we can but it wont go all the way through the stud. So basically we got all the studs and nuts out but we cant pull out the diff

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

Yes, it has to be dropped also to give you the clearence for the differential.

Page 9-24 in the FSM Front and Rear Axle manual show's everything that need's to be unbolted to remove the differential.

stormshadow531

iTrader: (5)

i believe you can drop the subframe most of the way and slide it out. but you cant do anything if you dont at least loosen it.

iLikeEatPoo

iTrader: (6)

If you want to install it bolt everything back on.

ROB&FC

its done. we droped the sub frame a bit, and lots braker bar jobs! lol chirps nice now...

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

lol don't have too much fun out there now.

Marck

iTrader: (2)

haha ill try not too but it seems like we didnt torque everything to spec hmm

ROB&FC

yeAH ONE of these lol
http://www.cis.rit.edu/~ejipci/image...0854_small.jpg




dude marck there is no specs on torque on the diff, lol it's tight as **** its a welded they sound like that hehe unless u been sliding allready then you might want to check it out but that **** is on there...

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

Are you ******* kidding me!?

And people wonder why I'm such a dick , it's for reason's like your post that there aren't any torque setting's for the differential that could get somebody hurt.

Go to page 9-47 in the Factory Service Manual in Front and Rear Axle section.

Diff carrier 65-77 Ft/lb
Diff case 54-69 Ft/lb
Diff member 54-69 Ft/lb
Sub link assembly 54-69 Ft/lb
Half shaft's 40-47 Ft/lb
Drive shaft 36-43 Ft/lb

ROB&FC

u r a dick! http://nickpoint.files.wordpress.com...trix_punch.jpg