3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 12:18 PM
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From: Oregon
IGN-A1 coil

Hey had any one in here with IGN A1 coil experience this issue? I tried to figure it out what can cost it look through all the wire everything hook up right just can’t figure it out what causes this and it only happened on the leading coil front rotor.
It
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 12:30 PM
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Please explain your issue better. Slow down and type with some semblance of sentence structure. A clearer picture would help as well.
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 02:08 PM
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I had this coil about a year and it work fine until couple weeks ago. I was out driving just normal driving it was fine until I stop at the light i noticed the rpm start drop to almost stall motor.When I got home open the hood up to check it out what is causing the issue.This’s what I saw what happen to the coil it got a crack and burst out some white foaming thing that turn hard in to like ceramic. This’s a leading coil for the front rotor.Check all the ground and connections everything is in order my thought maybe I got defected coil so I went ahead and order a new coil and replace it and change all spark plugs running all 9 plug. Yesterday I took it out and test drive it for about 30 minutes. Same thing happened front leading coil crack again. I have no idea what can causes this didn’t not mess with any connection at all.Any idea can cause this?
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 03:58 PM
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Damaged some in similar matter some years ago from missing one of the 3 (?) earths - maybe one of yours is flakey? It ended up damaging the ignition outputs in the ECU, which in turn killed new coils on the next start.
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by billyboy
Damaged some in similar matter some years ago from missing one of the 3 (?) earths - maybe one of yours is flakey? It ended up damaging the ignition outputs in the ECU, which in turn killed new coils on the next start.
does that mean the power fc is screw too?How did you end up fixing it? If I swap it out to the stock coil, will it work or it would cost the same damage?
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by lexxs
does that mean the power fc is screw too?How did you end up fixing it? If I swap it out to the stock coil, will it work or it would cost the same damage?
If the output is bad, wouldn't do any coil very much good.

This wasn't a PFC, but it did require the half bridge driver to be replaced. If there's a place there to test them, I might verify before assuming anything - again I'd double or triple check earth wiring, clean any corrosion, wire continuity, etc.
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 06:57 PM
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From: Oregon
Unfortunate there’s nobody here where I’m at can do the test for me. Just going to try swap to stock coil and see what will happen. Thanks for your advice.
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Old Jul 26, 2024 | 08:33 PM
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It looks to me like that coil has been commanded to charge for much too long. The expected behavior is the ECU will command the coil to charge for a few milliseconds (0.003 seconds) before it fires, the coil is not designed to charge for a long time or the insides can overheat and melt. My best guess is you have a harness wiring problem, possibly some wires that have the insulation damaged in a way that is sending 12V power to the trigger signal (pin A) of the coil. If you have a multimeter, I would unplug all four coils and measure voltage at each of the pins on the harness connectors when the ignition key is on. The black probe of the multimeter should go to battery ground when taking measurements, only the red probe needs to measure the harness connector pins. Be careful not to accidentally connect two of the pins together when using the multimeter, especially pins D (battery ground) and E (12V power).

Write down the voltage you measure for all five pins of each coil, post it here, and people might be able to advise. I would not swap to the stock ignition setup, for fear of damaging the factory coils or ignitors from an unresolved harness or ECU problem.

Also note that a damaged ignition circuit inside the PowerFC might cause similar behavior, and a harness problem could probably damage the PowerFC's ignition circuit in a way that would cause it to charge the coil even after the harness problem is fixed. The reason to measure voltage with the key on is because that would find an ECU problem, which might not be found when checking wire resistance or connectivity.

Last edited by scotty305; Jul 26, 2024 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2024 | 01:48 AM
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From: Oregon
Thanks for the input Scotty appreciated.i can work on motor and many thing on car but when it come to electric I’m a dummy at it.
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Old Jul 27, 2024 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by scotty305
It looks to me like that coil has been commanded to charge for much too long. The expected behavior is the ECU will command the coil to charge for a few milliseconds (0.003 seconds) before it fires, the coil is not designed to charge for a long time or the insides can overheat and melt. My best guess is you have a harness wiring problem, possibly some wires that have the insulation damaged in a way that is sending 12V power to the trigger signal (pin A) of the coil. If you have a multimeter, I would unplug all four coils and measure voltage at each of the pins on the harness connectors when the ignition key is on. The black probe of the multimeter should go to battery ground when taking measurements, only the red probe needs to measure the harness connector pins. Be careful not to accidentally connect two of the pins together when using the multimeter, especially pins D (battery ground) and E (12V power).

Write down the voltage you measure for all five pins of each coil, post it here, and people might be able to advise. I would not swap to the stock ignition setup, for fear of damaging the factory coils or ignitors from an unresolved harness or ECU problem.

Also note that a damaged ignition circuit inside the PowerFC might cause similar behavior, and a harness problem could probably damage the PowerFC's ignition circuit in a way that would cause it to charge the coil even after the harness problem is fixed. The reason to measure voltage with the key on is because that would find an ECU problem, which might not be found when checking wire resistance or connectivity.
Ok here voltage read on multimeter of each pin of each harness .
F-Leading
Pin A 0.43 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D 0.00 / E 12.25
F- T A 0.01 v /B 0.00 / C0.02 / D0.00 / E12.24

R-leading
Pin A 0.42 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D 0.00 / E 12.25
R-T A0.01 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D0.00 / E 12.22
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Old Jul 27, 2024 | 02:03 PM
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From: Bend, OR
Originally Posted by lexxs
Ok here voltage read on multimeter of each pin of each harness .
F-Leading
A 0.43 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D 0.00 / E 12.25
F- Trailing
A 0.01 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D 0.00 / E12.24

R-Leading
A 0.42 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D 0.00 / E 12.25
R-Trailing
A 0.01 v / B 0.00 / C 0.02 / D 0.00 / E 12.22
Very nice. Pin A is the trigger signal from the ECU to the coils. I would expect to see 0.0 Volts for the trigger signal most of the time, and the ECU sends a pulse of 5.0 Volts for a very brief moment (about 0.003 seconds) each time it wants to fire the coil. The pulse is so short you won't see it with a multimeter, even if you measure when the engine is running and the coil is obviously working. I don't know if 0.4 Volts is high enough that it will make the coils charge, but I'm concerned since you have a damaged leading coil and the leading coil trigger signal voltage is higher than the 0.0V measured on the trailing coils. It's hard to say exactly what your next step should be. My concern is there could be an intermittent problem in the harness, for instance some wires that are partially sliced or damaged from being routed near a sharp piece of metal or rubbed by the tires, and they only make contact when the harness moves around as the car drives. One way to find intermittent problems is to find the wires and shake or move them while you are measuring, but you might not have access to the entire length of the harness for the coil trigger signals. If your car is lowered, check the front harness as described in the thread below. I think the coil trigger wires run through the fender section of the harness, which often gets damaged on lowered cars.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-well-1161975/


If you've got the skills and tools and materials to run brand new trigger signal wires from the ECU to the leading ignition coils, that might be worth trying. If you have contact with someone who can inspect and repair your PowerFC, that might be worth trying.
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Old Jul 27, 2024 | 06:14 PM
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I suspect it might be my power FC. For a few months sometime when I start the car up power FC commander would say communication error on the screen, and I have to turn off the car and restart it again, and it would work normally on the screen.. Anyway, thanks for your help. I will find someone to see if they could check my power FC if anyone know someone who work or fix power FC please let me know would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Old Aug 13, 2024 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by billyboy
Damaged some in similar matter some years ago from missing one of the 3 (?) earths - maybe one of yours is flakey? It ended up damaging the ignition outputs in the ECU, which in turn killed new coils on the next start.
You were right is the ground .there are 4 ground one to the front rotor , rear rotor ,battery and one to chassis .the bad ground is the one that's go on the the chassis .I open the harness and there are 5 wire in the chassis ground .Turn out one out of the 5 wire broke but not completely from the connector i believe is the one that connect to the leading coil have no idea how it happen but any way i fix the harness and no more coil issue. thanks for your input.
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