hurley corner seals?
03-07-03, 05:55 PM
#1
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hurley corner seals?
I purchased some Hurley corner seals and was wondering if any one has used these newly designed corner seals. The question is, do I use the stock corner seal plugs or do they make a special one to fit.
08-08-04, 09:10 PM
#2
S.S.S.(sexy,silver,seven)
they should use the stock inserts. did you buy 2mm or 3mm seals? let me know how those work out for you. I came really close to buying some, but a friend brought up the whole trying to re invent the wheel saying.
08-09-04, 08:46 AM
#3
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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After blowing 5 motors in about 18 months with the Hurley Apex Seals, I decided to stay far away from his products.
What do you hope to gain by running these experimental corner seals? My advice to you is to run factory. Tearing into a motor after 500 miles is no fun, even if you are doing it yourself. Paying someone else to do it makes it much worse.
What do you hope to gain by running these experimental corner seals? My advice to you is to run factory. Tearing into a motor after 500 miles is no fun, even if you are doing it yourself. Paying someone else to do it makes it much worse.
08-22-04, 07:51 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
After blowing 5 motors in about 18 months with the Hurley Apex Seals, I decided to stay far away from his products.
What do you hope to gain by running these experimental corner seals? My advice to you is to run factory. Tearing into a motor after 500 miles is no fun, even if you are doing it yourself. Paying someone else to do it makes it much worse.
What do you hope to gain by running these experimental corner seals? My advice to you is to run factory. Tearing into a motor after 500 miles is no fun, even if you are doing it yourself. Paying someone else to do it makes it much worse.
Hmm GoodfellaFD3S u have blow 5 engines with hurley seals?
Cause i have just taken my second in 3 months. And the second time was identical to the first. Two blown apex seal on the rear rotor. Front was all fine.
The second time the rear leading plug also died at the same time. There was no spark on it.
Are hurleys crap or what. First time was with 3mm, second time was with 2mm.
JT
08-22-04, 10:10 AM
#5
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by jantore
Are hurleys crap or what. First time was with 3mm, second time was with 2mm.
JT
JT
08-22-04, 11:45 AM
#6
S.S.S.(sexy,silver,seven)
Ok i do know for a fact that hurley's 2mm are garbage, but there 3mm i have seen for myself run 32lbs of boost in a 10 almost 9 second FD, so who is blowing up the 3mm seals?
08-22-04, 11:46 AM
#7
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Well since Mazda has redesigned their seals and everyone is seeing negative results with them -- what is left to be trusted? Atkins?
I'm on the mis-informed side of the fence so I'm trying to learn,
~Kris
I'm on the mis-informed side of the fence so I'm trying to learn,
~Kris
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08-23-04, 06:24 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I don't like them. They are too soft, and fail too easily. I have helped tear down a motor that broke 2mm hurleys with no evidence of detonation at all. They just broke. Of course, they don't damage anything when they do break.......
Hello Rich
There was no detonation signs on my seals either. But could the seals crack if the rear rotor gets to hot? And if the split between the leading and trailing is way off?
JT
08-23-04, 01:04 PM
#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by jantore
Hello Rich
There was no detonation signs on my seals either. But could the seals crack if the rear rotor gets to hot? And if the split between the leading and trailing is way off?
JT
There was no detonation signs on my seals either. But could the seals crack if the rear rotor gets to hot? And if the split between the leading and trailing is way off?
JT
i believe that any overly hot condition will cause the coolant o-rings to fail before the apex seals are damaged. Hot spots on the rotors will make them more prone to detonation, however. If you have any kind of negative split (when the trailing fires before the leading), it is my understanding that broken apex seals are a definite possibility.
In the case of the motor I refer to in the case above, there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why the seals broke. No changes had been made to the car within the weeks prior, although it had recently been driven from NJ to TX.....with no sign whatsoever of detonation, I think that the seals just couldn't hold the power/boost level (~350 rwhp, ~15 psi) and finally let go.
Rich
08-23-04, 04:18 PM
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A friend of me have a motor from Hurley with 3mm titan apex seals and the engine is built to keep 750Hp, he have "only" 400Hp and everything is ok.
Sorry if my english is not perfect, I'm french.
Sorry if my english is not perfect, I'm french.
08-25-04, 07:25 AM
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Hi Jan,
i believe that any overly hot condition will cause the coolant o-rings to fail before the apex seals are damaged. Hot spots on the rotors will make them more prone to detonation, however. If you have any kind of negative split (when the trailing fires before the leading), it is my understanding that broken apex seals are a definite possibility.
In the case of the motor I refer to in the case above, there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why the seals broke. No changes had been made to the car within the weeks prior, although it had recently been driven from NJ to TX.....with no sign whatsoever of detonation, I think that the seals just couldn't hold the power/boost level (~350 rwhp, ~15 psi) and finally let go.
Rich
i believe that any overly hot condition will cause the coolant o-rings to fail before the apex seals are damaged. Hot spots on the rotors will make them more prone to detonation, however. If you have any kind of negative split (when the trailing fires before the leading), it is my understanding that broken apex seals are a definite possibility.
In the case of the motor I refer to in the case above, there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why the seals broke. No changes had been made to the car within the weeks prior, although it had recently been driven from NJ to TX.....with no sign whatsoever of detonation, I think that the seals just couldn't hold the power/boost level (~350 rwhp, ~15 psi) and finally let go.
Rich
I will try and get some pics of the engine today. Show how it looks like inside.
The only sign that somthing had hapend besides the the V8 sound and low power, was that all my IC pipes was full of oil.
Engine will be put backtogheter again next week with 3mm hurelys.
08-25-04, 09:27 AM
#12
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by jantore
The engine had only about 2000 miles on it. And the water seals where all like brand new. Even the engine inside looks like it have just been started up. No carbon whatsoever. And the side seals and corner seals did look like brand new.
I will try and get some pics of the engine today. Show how it looks like inside.
The only sign that somthing had hapend besides the the V8 sound and low power, was that all my IC pipes was full of oil.
Engine will be put backtogheter again next week with 3mm hurelys.
I will try and get some pics of the engine today. Show how it looks like inside.
The only sign that somthing had hapend besides the the V8 sound and low power, was that all my IC pipes was full of oil.
Engine will be put backtogheter again next week with 3mm hurelys.
08-26-04, 07:12 AM
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Hm, I would definitely track down this ignition problem you have, or those 3 mm's might be toast as well. Also, the oil in your IC piping most likely points to a problem with your turbos. What turbos are you running, and how much oil was in the pipes?
The turbo is a brand new Trust TD06H-25G. My airfilter is all full of oil, so im thinking it might come frome the breathing hose frome the filler neck. The one way walve between the fillerneck and the UIM was also full of oil so i think it did blow compression into the oil. And then upp the filler neck.
08-26-04, 08:57 AM
#16
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by jantore
I have changed coils now, to see if that was the problem. But i did get spark on all four plugs when i changed them. So im not sure it's an ignition problem.
The turbo is a brand new Trust TD06H-25G. My airfilter is all full of oil, so im thinking it might come frome the breathing hose frome the filler neck. The one way walve between the fillerneck and the UIM was also full of oil so i think it did blow compression into the oil. And then upp the filler neck.
The turbo is a brand new Trust TD06H-25G. My airfilter is all full of oil, so im thinking it might come frome the breathing hose frome the filler neck. The one way walve between the fillerneck and the UIM was also full of oil so i think it did blow compression into the oil. And then upp the filler neck.
08-27-04, 07:21 AM
#17
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Was there any oil smoke coming out of your tailpipe? If not, almost sounds like a side seal problem.
compression was 0-0-60 120-120-120
JT
BTW i will be calling next week to order some parts Rich
And u still have my Aluminium AST?
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