Jim,

This is why I love reading the forum

Any common sense on the board tonight.

Hey anybody know how to get over 11MPG out of my H1 Diesel

Later, Jeff

 

I made my swaps for other primary reasons than gas mileage. Better mileage was a noticeable bonus.

 

Originally Posted by von
I had a 91 geo metro. Got 47mpg but my dad got more out of it on long trips. The insights did not get a true 70mpg. They actually got 54 or something in a gas mileage test. A 1.6ltr miata will get 30mpg even. Now if you want you can rebuild a geo metro with lighter parts. Strip it then somehow retrofit a hybrid batery into it and squeeze out 80mpg

retrofit a hybrid battery? hate to break it to ya, but a hybrid is more than just a big battery under the floorboards. Depending on what car you look at, they either have a series or parallel arrangement with their hybrid system. I'm not completely sure on what the difference between series or parallel is, but a hybrid system involves a ****-ton more stuff than just a battery. it requires a different engine, transmission, a computer programmed to switch between power sources (electric motor or gas engine), and one that can use the electric motor during cruising/deceleration to re-charge the battery. you can't just retrofit a hybrid battery and expect to get better gas mileage, because what's the use of a battery without an electric motor to power?

 

Yeah, stick a 13B TT engine in there....it gets over 30 MPG.

I'm so mean today.

 

i didnt read through the whole post, but this can easily be done!

Install a stock LS1! More torque, more Hp, no apex seals, weighs less, no turboes, sounds mean, engines are cheap, parts are cheap, AND aside from the other countless greatness that swap brings,,, your 30mpg when cruising around can be acheived...
-This ought to be good.

 

My daily driver is a 2000 civic EX. I consistently get 33-34 mpg city/37-38 mpg highway. It may be slow as hell and not very fun but it most certainly does get that mileage. My RX-7 gets half that and that's why I don't drive it everyday. I also drive 30K+ miles a year. A rotary would be damn expensive.

 

Just writing what's listed. As I'm sure we all know (esp w/ the FD), "actual mileage may vary"

 

my buddy has a 1st gen with a side draft and a holly and race beat exaust he is offering to sell me he say's he's getting 21 around town and 28 hwy for the right price i could hook you up!

 

Is it possible to get a boost controller, and throw in some 87 (its cheaper), with the boost all the way down? I know this won't help fuel economy buy maybe a little, ( though I heard from a few places that using the lowest octane possible will provide best mileage). I know that you would have to fill it back up with premium to have fun again, but just for chuggin around or going on the highway.


BTW, my 93 Eagle Talon 2.0L gets 35 hiway 22 city, and I drive like a maniac. I know is slow compared to an FD (getting one soon I hope) but got 6.8 0-60 with minor mods.

 

Well... here is a totally basic stock car milage man.... 30 is like.... hells no~~

 

Take the turbos out, get a programable ecu and tune it with 87 octane to naturally aspirated 13~14:1 at wot and as lean as it will run without misfiring while cruising. Advance the timing, keeping the egr's safe. Also put a rev limiter at 6000 rpm

Take the PS and AC out along with all unnecessary interior items and lower the car's weight as much as possible.

Use royal purple oils in the engine tranny and diff, use lighter rims with 155 tires inflated to 40psi or more without exceeding the maximum rating

Use underdrive pullies, lightweight flywheel and CF driveshaft

Chage your diff to the auto's 3.90

You'll surely get 35mpg highway this way

But it will be as fun as driving my sister's hyundai accent!!

 

akiratdk, that sticker says, "Estimated Annual Fuel Cost: $1,012" Looks like even Mazda was basing it's calculations on the FD being a weekend car

 

Okay, here are two more realistic way to get good mileage:
1. Drive at 40mph on the freeway. I've done this before and got 30mpg. Mods: pre-cats removed, synthetic transmission oil, electric fan. There was a lot of traffic. I left a large space in front of me so I wouldn't have to brake very much. I coasted a lot instead, with brief periods of acceleration. From what I read 50mph is better than 40mph for sports cars in general. Incidentally I also calculated the optimum speed for driving an RX-7 to be 80mph, assuming the driver makes $20/hour and does his own car maintenance. The two factors considered were the value of the driver's time and the cost of gas and engine/etc. wear.

2. New exhaust, performance cat, performance intake, electric fan, lightweight oil, synthetic transmission oil, synthetic differential oil. This won't bring you to 30mpg, but it might add 3mpg (guestimate), of which the 3 oils combined contribute ~0.5mpg (article). Still costs more than the gas saved, but you're gonna want these on your car anyway. Except the near-useless electric fan, unless you need to replace your fan anyway. Also a light flywheel helps a lot for city mileage, but I'm trying to be realistic here.

Driving granny-style almost never seems to help any rotary driver I've ever heard of. However, avoiding the need to brake helps me a great deal, and it would be a violation of the laws of physics if it didn't help everyone. Same with driving at a lower top speed and on the freeway. You've got air drag to deal with there.

Theoretically a combination of flooring it to a low top speed and then coasting until you floor it again would give optimal mileage in any engine, piston or rotary. In practice I'm sure it doesn't quite work for stock cars, but this really is the method that the tiny-engined super-mileage vehicles use. Engines are up to twice as efficient at full throttle.

 

Get another car

 

How is an electric fan a mod? All FD's have electric fans.

 

30 mpg, add one gallon of gas and ride bike for next 30 miles; next trip to corner gas station will use 1 gallon. Honestly, is 30 mpg is needed, sell the car. I think I have done good to get 18 mpg on a freeway trip, average is 10-12, track mileage is good if I can get 5.

 

Sorry, I'm in the wrong generation forums. That's what I get for letting my eyes stray during a search.

 

Best method i have found:

Fill tank on a certain pump (remember this pump) untill it clicks off from the pressure valve. Reset trip odometer to 0 and make sure you have recently had it calibrated to current tire diameter and such) Drive car down to 1/4 tank. Fill tank back up to the first click on the same pump and hope that the weather is similar both days (for pressure and air tmep reasons - if we want to get nitty gritty, let's get nitty gritty ) divide your trip mileage by the exact amount opf fuel you just placed in your tank and you have your mileage for that segment. Repeat 5 times, logginf each time and driving habits. This will give you a car & driver mileage approximation, taylored to your driving habits nad your vehicles normal fuel consumption.

Any questions?

 

LOL you guys are making like we're driving a hybrid where every mpg means something.

We're driving FD's people, who cares how much mpg it gets, long as its running properly (not overly rich nor lean), then you're good to go and enjoy the car. lol

All i know is last time i ran the car from full to just below 1/4 tank, i made 294 miles. That was both city and highway in the summer time with light boost.

 

How about converting it to a one rotor engine for cruising like the Dodge Magnum/Charger RT with the hemi V8. When cruising they electronically cut out 4 cylinders which gives the hemi V8 a 25 mpg rating on the highway. Honda Odysey does this too and gets almost 30 cruising. Try the same thing for the FD. Shut off the injectors to one rotor for cruising. There's an R&D project for someone with lots of money and time to blow. Mazda should consider this to improve the lousy RX8 mpg. It's worse than the FD.

 

^

I for some reason don't think that would work

 

swap a 1.3L aspire engine into it...it'll get 35+mpg

 

I doubt cutting a rotor would work. Wouldnt the chamber just get all gummy w/ oil from the OMP? Oil is consumed by the rotary by design. Its removed by combustion. Remove the combustion, all you get is oil. Remove the oil, and you have no apex seal lubrication for the cut off rotor. With the piston designs, oil comes from the bottom so cutting off combustion wont matter.

 

I've read in a Bosch EFI book (our RX-7s use a Bosch-designed engine management system) that if you want optimum fuel economy, you should keep RPM's low and the throttle open. For instance, accelerating from 30-40mph by using full throttle at 2k-3k RPM's will use less fuel than changing gears and using part throttle at 4k-5k rpms. If you think about it, it makes sense: twice the engine speed will use twice the fuel.


-s-

 

the new Dodges they don't shut the cylinders off they cut fuel to them so you still have 4 cylinders flying around, which is wy they see about 20% gain and not like 35-45%, but still any would be nice, my sugestion, due all the reliablity mods then most importantly, find a big hill and strong wind behind you, been on the forums for a bit and i'm convinced that is one of the 2 1/2 ways to get 30MPG+.


and very strong wind and big hill :P


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