But at the higher risk of blowing out a tire? I'll pay for the extra gas thank you very much

 

And un-even tire wear..

 

I had a 91 geo metro. Got 47mpg but my dad got more out of it on long trips. The insights did not get a true 70mpg. They actually got 54 or something in a gas mileage test. A 1.6ltr miata will get 30mpg even. Now if you want you can rebuild a geo metro with lighter parts. Strip it then somehow retrofit a hybrid batery into it and squeeze out 80mpg

 

I had a 91 geo metro. Got 47mpg but my dad got more out of it on long trips. The insights did not get a true 70mpg. They actually got 54 or something in a gas mileage test. A 1.6ltr miata will get 30mpg even. Now if you want you can rebuild a geo metro with lighter parts. Strip it then somehow retrofit a hybrid batery into it and squeeze out 80mpg

ps...id rather drive a civic then a geo

 

Like i said, my teacher squeezed out 104

 

This can be done, but you'll have to invest enough money to make it work that Im not sure it'd be worthwile. Either get an SAFC or an adjustable ecu capable of dual fuel maps. Set one up for normal/spirited driving, and set one for highway, super lean. In theory this works, but in practice, it can be dangerous, as the 2 maps are far apart, there may be times you forget to switch when your driving habits change, etc.

 

USE PROPANE no questions, just search button...

 

You could remove the power steering pump, AC, and underdrive your alternator, as well as replace the waterpump with an electric pump. You could swap your flywheel with an aluminum, and run a lighter weight trans oil.
You could remove the ABS, cats, and replace the stock catback with a titanium version. You could remove the heater core, spare tire, speakers, carpet, and passenger seat, as well as all the plastic interior trim. Replace the battery with lighter one, and install a 5 gallon fuel tank.

As for the engine, you could remove the boost control and let the 7 psi spring lower the boost, or wire the turbo control and wastegate open so you could run your 87. Better yet, just put a cone filter right off the elbow pipe.
If you baby foot it, I think you could milk out 30MPG. The motor would need to be strong first. Someone should call SCC and let them try to hit the 30mpg in an FD. Remember the white silva or altima 1/4 miler?

 

good mileage? whats that?

 

The best that I have gotten was 26MPG doing a constant 70MPH w/o stops on a 300mi trip. I do these quite frequently. I have clean plugs, stock ecu, clean fuel/air filter, etc. and the mods listed below. Hoping for 30MPG on a normal tune would be insane. You would need to somehow lean out the ECU to the point where there is really no point of owning a FD anymore.

Stick with your Honda if you have hopes of high MPG.

 

remove all engine accesories(ps/ac)

use no electronics to keep the load low on the alternator.

keep the windows up to reduce drag.

and most importantly, engine tuning for economy, at least in the vaccum range.

 

Try walking.

 

lol.....keep your honda

 

OK, so 30mpg is probably out of the question, but it's pretty well known that the factory ECU runs terribly rich.


What kind of mileage are the PFC / Woldf3D / Haltech users getting with a safe tune? Is 20 mpg possible during regular driving? 23? I'd imagine this has a lot to do with the ignition setup also, burning the fuel completely should help...

-s-

 

my corolla gets 40mpg and it takes 87.

the best i can get is 25mpg highway, with a streetport, no cats, pettit ecu, nonseq. i shift by 3k to avoid too much boost.

i guess it depends how much money you can afford to spend on gas. basically the FD costs twice as much as a civic or corolla or whatever to go the same distance.

 

keep your honda, unless its downhill both ways to and from work, and if you keep your honda there is less miles going on the fd, and lesss work in the long run. I know it can be, but the fd was not *meant to be a dialy driver

 

Tow your FD with your Civic..

 

Install the diff from an automatic, would be worth 3-5 MPG, IF you can stay off the boost.

:-) neil

 

My car is essentially all stock and I normally average 26 mpg cruising at 75 mph with the a/c on.

 

So your willing to pay $1,300 to save a couple bucks each time at the pump?

You might want to do the math & figure out your breakeven point. Then rejoice in the massive benifits of buying a Power FC just for better gas mileage.

The factory ECU runs rich during boost, not during cruise.


You want a high HP sports car that looks like a FD & gets a million miles to the gallon??????????














Buy a C5

 

push it

 

just make sure your water is filled up and you dont have any clogged nozzles on your system.

 

If you have a very sensitive foot (like me ) you can actually rev straight up to redline w/o building any boost. It's VERY doable, but not exactly fun, and I dunno if it's good for the engine or turbos, at that (esp since it takes a lot LONGER to rev that way) I regularly take it up to 5K before shifting during traffic stop & go, simply to make shifts more smooth, plus I love hearing the engine roar lol. Of course, no need to boost at that point, given traffic conditions, sometimes it's raining, and well, the FD's gas mileage is bad enough as it is. THAT'S some non-spirited driving for ya

Can you clarify for me a bit? According to Edmunds, a C5 makes 19/28 manual, 18/25 auto... The FD came w/ virtually identical #s on the sticker (18/24). Not exactly a "million miles," eh? In fact, (without driving it), that's not really an improvement at all... Plus, the C5 comes w/ a 18 gallon tank, while an FD comes w/ a 20.1 gallon tank, so you're gonna have to refuel sooner. So maybe I'm missing something?

 

Although you are using less gas by not boosting, you are using more gas by shifting at a higher rpm. Shifting earlier will keep the engine at a lower rpm, and consume less gas.

 

I just posted without reading any other posts, but I am now just to hear some funny answers. As you can tell, your dreaming.

Tim