2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

My idle seems to stay around 1100rpm or so all the time after I changed the rad the other week. I don't think theres any more air in the system since last time I opened it up after cool down it was just about an inch from the cap.

I did some searching but didn't find exacly what I was looking for.

Could this be an intake leak somewhere or should I just try to adjust it down to the regular spot?

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

Anybody have an opinion?

RotorDream

Need more info. What ECU do you have? Do you still have the Fast Idle cam? Do you still have AWS? If all you did was change the radiator, it shouldn't change your idle.

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

Its the Petit ECU. Recently put a midpipe with high flow cat on the car as well which was like the day after I did the rad change.

As for the Fast Idle cap or AWS I haven't taken anything off.

RotorDream

did you start the car and let it idle in between the rad install and the high flow cat on?

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

Yes I did the start up and cool down twice the night before to try to get all the air out of the system. When I brought it to my buddies shop to install the midpipe the idle was a bit high still but I figured it would even out afterwards. Instead its still staying up around 1100rpm.

Vaccuum at 1100rpm is around -8.8psi which from what I converted online is around 17.5 in/hg so I didn't think there was any intake leaks.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Did you set the idle speed using the factory procedure described in the service manual? You have to put the engine into diagnostic mode, which fixes the ISC duty cycle at something like 35%.

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

I haven't. Can these instructions be found anywhere online?

RotorDream

arghx king of the idle has arrived your problem is solved!

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

My idle is like that too.. Sometimes it will idle down to 750 like normal. Other days it would idle at 1000rpm even. Other days it will idle as high as 1300rpm for the entire trip. Or will hunt from normal, then eventually stay as a high idle.

It didnt affect driveability and i dont wanna touch something to prevent me from driving it and make matters worse so i left it like that.

Been like that for 2 years now.

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

Yea mine did that sometimes before but most the time it would go back down to 750rpm.

I just found it odd now that it would never go down to the normal 750rpm and that I would have to adjust the idle after doing those changes which is why I was asking if maybe something else would be wrong and cause this to occur.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Note that this is the procedure for cars without a PFC. It's in the Fuel and Emissions section of the FSM, page F-17. I suggest you download the service manual and the service highlights documents in the sticky thread. Look through the fuel and emissions sections in both documents. It explains a lot.

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

I don't quite understand what the SST is. Do they explain it more in the manual?

Turbo II FC

iTrader: (14)

And if the car has a Power FC? I know the Power FC goes in learning mode the first time its powered on and you switch on the rear defroster and then ac if working but a buddys car still idles high.

EDIT: Nevermind, found the info somewhere already.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The SST is the diagnostic tool that Mazda dealerships have for FD's. It reads engine sensors and trouble codes on a display, and can initiate diagnostics on various control modules. Jumpering the TEN terminal is the same as selecting certain settings in the SST.

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

Ah ok thanks!!

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

Where exacly is the panel with the # 10 Terminal. Was looking everywhere in the car and couldn't find it.