Ok. I'm sure that 90% of you vets on the forum have seen a billion other posts like this, so if you don't want to answer, that's all right. And yes, I searched. My car idles at at least 1300 rpm to 1500 rpm, all the time, even warm. What are possible reasons for this? I had thought 850 was normal. Also, for the first minute of driving, temp gauge in the normal position, when I push the clutch in to coast to a stop, the idle wavers from 1500-2100 rpm. This goes away after about a minute. Any ideas?

 

Check for vacuum leaks and check to see if your TPS is working right. Also it could be the AWS is sticking and holding your idle high or maybe a bad BAC.

 

Check your TPS, and also look for vacuum leaks. You may have an oscure one under the UIM or on one of the rotor housing oil injectors.

 

Ah, you beat me by 1 minute! Your fingers dance across keyboard like lightning

 

Man, quite the alphabet soup in this thread.

TPS=Throttle Position Sensor
AWS=Accelerated Warmup Sensor/System
BAC=Blood Alchohol Content? I would assume this is the Idle Air Control
UIM=Upper Intake Manifold

 

That's how I beat you. I spewed out acronym soup instead of typing everything out

 

Thanks guys, one more dumb question while I'm at it, my car needs new alternator belts, are those the same as accessory belts?

 

One belt is for the alt, water pump, airpump and main crank.
Other is p/s, a/c, and main crank.

 

The plot thickens...
My car still idles at about 1200-1300 when warm. For the first couple minutes of driving, when i push in the clutch to slow down, like at a red light, the engine speed can rise up to 2300-2400. This number will get lower as i drive more, until it only rises to maybe 1500. The funny part is, as soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the revs will drop from 2400 down to my normal idle, about 1300. If i blip the throttle while braking, they will drop down to idle momentarily, then rise right back up to 2400 until the complete stop. What the hell is going on? Ah yes, my car also starts quite roughly when cold.

 

I still think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Your best bet would probably be to take it to Rick's Rotary Performance in Pleasanton. They did some work on my car when I lived in San Jose and if they can't fix it then nobody can.

 

Could be the Idle Speed Control or maybe the Air control valve. Try disconnecting the ISC connector behind the UIM to see if the idle goes down.

Be sure the wax rod is working right. It should hold the throttle open partly when cold and retract when warm.

You can also start capping off vacuum sources on te manilfold one by one to try and locate the culprit. It could even be as simple as a boost gauge hose.

 

Rick suggests it's the AWS system. He says the Power FC disables that completely, guess that's what I'll install next.

 

Fixed yet?

 

Get it sorted?

 

Bypass Air Control Valve - It's an FC thing

 

your idle adjustment isnt proper. check TPS and then adjust idle screw.