Hahaha here we go, after a long year of learning how to build a rotary engine building an engine reinstalling into the car I've hit what i hope is my final road block ... no. Spark. Ive traced the issue all the way to the coil and at this point i cant figure it out Im going to post the specs under for better understanding.the coils are getting power but they are not getting signal i don't think its just constant power Ive connected to the ecu with my laptop and its showing a tach reading so I know its being picked up by the sensors but either not getting to the coils or what please any suggestions i just wanna drive this thing it blew on the way home from buying it and I haven’t drove it since

 

Specs are as follows
93 single turbo
Haltech E8 ecu -a complete dinosaur
ls1 coils
apexi metering system

 

I would triple double check your wiring. Assuming it ran before, make sure your plugs are good and not flooded. If it's not triggering the coils, it's most likely a trigger issue and not a coil issue. The ecu won't send a spark command if the crank sensor(s) aren't giving a 100% correct signal. I had my home trigger sensor wired backwards and it read rpm, but misfired a bunch. Swapped the wires around and everything is smooth again. Custom set ups you didn't build are a turd to diagnose. An inline spark reader light is more reliable than a timing light for checking spark. I had my plugs foul on me and my timing light didn't pick up the signal, but my inline spark light did. Hope some of this helps!

 

Good advice above. How are you verifying there is no spark? I would suggest a spark plug light as well.

there is a page in the fsm to diagnose the coils are working with an ohm meter.

good luck.

 

At this point im convinced its either the wiring or its not getting a good trigger somehow, it’s definitely getting power and the coils definitely work because while plugging one in I got a nice little shock to wake me the hell up but im just confused because i used a multi meter on the plug for the coil and the what should be the signal wire and its getting 12v all the time but i feel like it shouldn’t be.Im gunna mess around with the triggers more when i get home tonight so I’ll keep y'all updates thanks for the replys!

 

I know some of the early Haltechs were a nightmare to get spark and timing working properly. I hooked up an E6K on an FC a long time ago and it was a disaster with pull-up resistors, funky wiring, and playing with timing lights.

May want to make sure the Haltech is getting a good signal from the CAS. When cranking it should show RPM on the screen, about 250 RPM or so while cranking. If not it's time to look at the CAS setup.

Was the car running on this setup prior to the rebuild?

Dale

 

The car was running when i took the motor out which is why im so confused, it dose show about 250 rpms when cranking so i feel like it should at least be triggering something unless theres some sort of safety that i just cant find, thanks for the response

 

Make sure you don't have the crank angle sensor NE and G sensor harnesses mixed up. The white one goes on the left/top when looking at the engine bay from the front of the car. The gray one goes on the right/bottom.

The easiest way to get to them is to remove the intercooler, accessory belts and then the main pulley. Do not remove the main pulley hub with the large eccentric shaft bolt. The pulleys come off the hub with (4) 10 mm screws.

Also check the wires going to the ignition coils. There is ground shielding on some of the wires and on mine the insulation broke and was shorting out on this shielding.

 

step one with the haltech, or any ecu really, is to figure out where the problem is.

so the CAS sends a signal to the ecu, and then the ECU sends a signal to the ignitor to fire the coils. if you have a cranking RPM, the CAS to the ecu is working, and the problem is on the Ignitor/Coil side.

 

Welp heres an update a month later, i just cut the tip if my thumb off so its been hard to get in the garage since the cold ****** hurts but i dod spend time ******* with the car it now isnt getting rpm signal at all for rpm reading which is better then before where it would show rpm but only on the fuel map and not ignition map. Im leaning towards it being the cpu i traced the wires from the cas sensors and they had continuity so theres no break in connection so either its the sensor which one has a little dent in it or its the ecu. Thanks to everybody who replied trying to help any more suggestions would really help!

 

If the ECU software will display the raw NE and G signal info, that might be helpful for debugging. The standalone ECU software might not call them NE or G, they might use names like 'crank' and 'cam' or 'ref' and 'sync'. Here's a good thread with info:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ectors-934872/

Obviously it's important for both signals to be present. The ECU might not pick up the signal if the air gap between the sensor and the trigger wheel is too narrow or too wide, and the acceptable air gap for an aftermarket ECU might be different than what will work with the stock ECU. The NE/crank/ref signal should be received 12 times for each time the G/cam/sync signal is received, and if the plugs are swapped the ECU is unlikely to measure the correct RPM (may not measure RPM at all).

 

Well the good news is it got it to spark and run im not quiet fully sure what it was but i replaced the Cas sensors new plugs for them and checked ever wire going to the ecu that seemed to do the trick, however it still wont run right the timing is really whacky even when adjusted and the rpms keep spiking from 4995 to 16000k on the ecu so im not done yet but thanks to everone who threw in ideas