Help with Restrictor Pills
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help with Restrictor Pills
Okay, I have searched for hours on this. I've seen this question asked several times, but each time, nobody has any meaningful input...
On turbos with the built-in restrictors in the nipples, how does one remove this "tree" thing (the small metal pipe with the two restricted nipples on it)? The most detailed comment I found stated that it was pressure-fitted into the compressor housing with some sort of sealant, and that you could "wiggle" it out easily with a pair of pliers...
First, I can't see how you can just wiggle the tree out without damaging it. Being a "pressure fit", the base of the tree would have to distort when you wiggle it. What's more, considering the pressure and heat that thing is subjected to, it must be in there pretty tight, and/or have some sort of bonding agent holding it in.
Second, how does one go about reinstalling the tree? What kind of sealant should be used? How much force does it take to get it in there securely? Any other important details I've missed?
Now, to make things even more difficult, I want to do this with the turbos installed. There appears to be sufficient room, but has anyone else managed this?
FWIW, I'm helping a friend install an MBC. Depending on the difficulty of removing/installing the tree, I may decide to just tee into one of the lines coming off the Y-pipe. I've yet to see any good argument for not doing so, but I am a perfectionist, and using the stock pressure source is certainly preferrable to me...
On turbos with the built-in restrictors in the nipples, how does one remove this "tree" thing (the small metal pipe with the two restricted nipples on it)? The most detailed comment I found stated that it was pressure-fitted into the compressor housing with some sort of sealant, and that you could "wiggle" it out easily with a pair of pliers...
First, I can't see how you can just wiggle the tree out without damaging it. Being a "pressure fit", the base of the tree would have to distort when you wiggle it. What's more, considering the pressure and heat that thing is subjected to, it must be in there pretty tight, and/or have some sort of bonding agent holding it in.
Second, how does one go about reinstalling the tree? What kind of sealant should be used? How much force does it take to get it in there securely? Any other important details I've missed?
Now, to make things even more difficult, I want to do this with the turbos installed. There appears to be sufficient room, but has anyone else managed this?
FWIW, I'm helping a friend install an MBC. Depending on the difficulty of removing/installing the tree, I may decide to just tee into one of the lines coming off the Y-pipe. I've yet to see any good argument for not doing so, but I am a perfectionist, and using the stock pressure source is certainly preferrable to me...
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Does this set of turbos have pills, or the restrictors built into the metal nipples?
If it's the latter, why not use an 1/8" drill and open up the restrictors. (If the former, there is nothing to modify). I haven't seen the integral restrictors in person, but I don't see any reason to remove the tubing from the compressor housing. I do remember someone trying to reinsert the tubing after it came loose from the housing, but that's just a repair issue.
Dave
If it's the latter, why not use an 1/8" drill and open up the restrictors. (If the former, there is nothing to modify). I haven't seen the integral restrictors in person, but I don't see any reason to remove the tubing from the compressor housing. I do remember someone trying to reinsert the tubing after it came loose from the housing, but that's just a repair issue.
Dave
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Does this set of turbos have pills, or the restrictors built into the metal nipples?
If it's the latter, why not use an 1/8" drill and open up the restrictors. (If the former, there is nothing to modify). I haven't seen the integral restrictors in person, but I don't see any reason to remove the tubing from the compressor housing. I do remember someone trying to reinsert the tubing after it came loose from the housing, but that's just a repair issue.
If it's the latter, why not use an 1/8" drill and open up the restrictors. (If the former, there is nothing to modify). I haven't seen the integral restrictors in person, but I don't see any reason to remove the tubing from the compressor housing. I do remember someone trying to reinsert the tubing after it came loose from the housing, but that's just a repair issue.
I thought about plugging the hole on the inside of the compressor housing with some tubing, so I could just blow the shavings out after I finish drilling. That may be the best approach, but I want to hear what others have done.
I searched through a lot of threads on this, and it seems like people usually suggest removing the "tree" to drill it, and each time the person they're suggesting that to asks "how do I do that?", and each time, nobody ever answers.
Most people take care of this with the turbos off the car, but clearly, the person who installed these turbos was a moron and didn't think ahead (in fact, they actually had a pill in the line in addition to the restrictor in the nipple!). FWIW, it was a "respected" engine builder.
There has to be someone here who has done this. I simply cannot believe this is an isolated case. If you have managed to drill the restrictors with the turbos in the car, please speak up!
Originally Posted by wanklin
What's up Joe, I'll keep an eye out and let you know if I find the info that you need. I'm going to need your help on that engine install fairly soon if you are still up to it.
-Rob
-Rob
Yeah, I'm definitely still up to it. I wanna see your new chassis, too! I'll call you tonight, maybe I can swing by...
#6
Lives on the Forum
I can see your worry about shavings in the compressor but it's not a big deal IMO. I'd carefully drill the fittings and then I'd remove the primary inlet elbow and the y-pipe. Blow liberally with compressed air to get all the shavings out and then put it back together. I would hold the compressor wheel when you do this so it doesn't spin.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by DigDug
Restrictors are in the nipples. And that's exactly what I was talking about doing. I just don't feel comfortable drilling in a pipe that connects directly to the compressor housing, especially one that is situated perfectly to dump any resulting metal shavings directly into the compressor.
I agree, pulling the tree is the way to go - perhaps you can match mark the housing and remove it for this operation. The trick might be accessing the snap ring holding it in place.
Dave
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
A I recall, I used a flex neck dremel tool, run slow, with thick grease on progressive drill sizes uo to 1/8" drill. most chips came out with grease. May have been a t-handle from tap set, directly to drills.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So some people have successfully drilled the restrictor without removing the tree - interesting.
If I were to remove it, the only question I still have is, what should I do to reinstall the tree? Any particular sealant to be applied? And how much force does it take to get it securely fitted into the housing? I'm sure it will be somewhat obvious when I have everything apart, but never hurts to be prepared...
Snap ring? I didn't notice a snap ring on it, but I'll take another look.
If I were to remove it, the only question I still have is, what should I do to reinstall the tree? Any particular sealant to be applied? And how much force does it take to get it securely fitted into the housing? I'm sure it will be somewhat obvious when I have everything apart, but never hurts to be prepared...
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
The trick might be accessing the snap ring holding it in place.
Last edited by DigDug; 10-06-05 at 11:59 AM.
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
If you do pull it, I would wipe both faces clean with solvent (carb cleaner, or the like). Then apply a thin bead of gasket sealant on the tree and push it in. The sealant will force out of the hole (not in, and onto the compressor) so you can wipe it clean. Between the tight fit and the sealant it shouldn't come out by accident.
There is a snap ring that holds the aluminum compressor housing onto the turbo. It's an internal snap ring facing the hot side of the turbo assembly.
Then you can take the housing and tree out of the car. The complication is that you'd have to reassemble it with the housing lined up just right to fit the y-pipe, so you'll need to match mark it well. Of course, that idea depends on if you can reach the snap ring while the turbos are in place.
Dave
There is a snap ring that holds the aluminum compressor housing onto the turbo. It's an internal snap ring facing the hot side of the turbo assembly.
Then you can take the housing and tree out of the car. The complication is that you'd have to reassemble it with the housing lined up just right to fit the y-pipe, so you'll need to match mark it well. Of course, that idea depends on if you can reach the snap ring while the turbos are in place.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 10-06-05 at 01:21 PM.
#12
Racecar - Formula 2000
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
If you do pull it, I would wipe both faces clean with solvent (carb cleaner, or the like). Then apply a thin bead of gasket sealant on the tree and push it in.
Dave
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Yeah, I was thinking superglue for a while, but most people only have the thin runny stuff. It hadn't yet occurred to me that Loc-tite red is a thick superglue that almost everyone has handy. I'll bet either one will work fine.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 10-06-05 at 02:45 PM.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I started out thinking I'd remove the tree, but when I tried to "wiggle" it out of the housing, it really didn't want to come out. I decided to avoid damaging the tree, and instead drilled it in place.
I have a Dremel with the flex attachment, and remembered what Kevin suggested - applying a thick grease to a drill bit to keep the shavings from scattering around inside the tree. The thickest grease I have is moly chassis grease, so I slathered it on a 1/8" drill bit, and using the slowest setting on my Dremel, carefully worked through the restrictor. Worked perfectly!
The restrictor wasn't as thick as I expected - the drill bit popped right through. When I pulled out the bit, most of the shavings were suspended in the grease filling the channels of the bit. I used a tiny screwdriver to wipe the remaining grease/shavings out of the nipple.
Installed the MBC and it works like a charm! Thanks for the input everybody, especially Kevin!
I have a Dremel with the flex attachment, and remembered what Kevin suggested - applying a thick grease to a drill bit to keep the shavings from scattering around inside the tree. The thickest grease I have is moly chassis grease, so I slathered it on a 1/8" drill bit, and using the slowest setting on my Dremel, carefully worked through the restrictor. Worked perfectly!
The restrictor wasn't as thick as I expected - the drill bit popped right through. When I pulled out the bit, most of the shavings were suspended in the grease filling the channels of the bit. I used a tiny screwdriver to wipe the remaining grease/shavings out of the nipple.
Installed the MBC and it works like a charm! Thanks for the input everybody, especially Kevin!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JDyer
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
5
02-04-02 09:13 PM
rotorhead46
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
2
01-07-02 10:30 AM