Help The Newbie!!!
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Memphis,TN
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Help The Newbie!!!
Hello All,
I have been looking at this forum for about 4 months without participating. I am a sports car enthusiast. I come from a family who has traditionally owned Corvettes. I have had three including a 1990 (1991-1996) and new 1996 Polo Green (1996-1999) and a 1997 Silver ( 1999-2001) . I July I sold the 1997 to buy my wife a much needed new car to replace her 94 Grand Am. I bought a 2001 White Acura CL 3.2 Type S. Great Car, but I need something more. I have loved the 3rd Generation RX-7's since I first saw one on the showroom floor in Slidell,LA when they first came out. It was a Yellow R1. Ill never forget the Yellow contrasting the red strut tower brace over the engine.
Anyway, I will be in the market in about 6 months. The car will only be driven occasionally since I have a company car and she has the Acura. I have a few initial questions I would like to ask:
I am looking for a 7 in good condition. I won't spend over $16000 for it. Which is better? A replace engine or non-replaced?
I don't reallly care if it is a Touring or R1 or about the color, I am looking for condition. How good is the paint on these cars?
Does anyone know someone who could be trusted to work on it in the Memphis,TN area?
Should I buy bone-stock or one with some mods like downpipe and turbo timers etc....?
I guess I am like most people on the forum....I would like to have a 93 Yellow R1 with about 35k on it, but I doubt I would find one for the money. If anyone has some really nice wallpaper to email me that would be great. Below are pics of the Acura and Vette ( TriFlo Exhaust,Dual K&Ns,Fuel pressure regulator,chip) Sniff!Sniff!!!
Thanks for any help....Harold
I have been looking at this forum for about 4 months without participating. I am a sports car enthusiast. I come from a family who has traditionally owned Corvettes. I have had three including a 1990 (1991-1996) and new 1996 Polo Green (1996-1999) and a 1997 Silver ( 1999-2001) . I July I sold the 1997 to buy my wife a much needed new car to replace her 94 Grand Am. I bought a 2001 White Acura CL 3.2 Type S. Great Car, but I need something more. I have loved the 3rd Generation RX-7's since I first saw one on the showroom floor in Slidell,LA when they first came out. It was a Yellow R1. Ill never forget the Yellow contrasting the red strut tower brace over the engine.
Anyway, I will be in the market in about 6 months. The car will only be driven occasionally since I have a company car and she has the Acura. I have a few initial questions I would like to ask:
I am looking for a 7 in good condition. I won't spend over $16000 for it. Which is better? A replace engine or non-replaced?
I don't reallly care if it is a Touring or R1 or about the color, I am looking for condition. How good is the paint on these cars?
Does anyone know someone who could be trusted to work on it in the Memphis,TN area?
Should I buy bone-stock or one with some mods like downpipe and turbo timers etc....?
I guess I am like most people on the forum....I would like to have a 93 Yellow R1 with about 35k on it, but I doubt I would find one for the money. If anyone has some really nice wallpaper to email me that would be great. Below are pics of the Acura and Vette ( TriFlo Exhaust,Dual K&Ns,Fuel pressure regulator,chip) Sniff!Sniff!!!
Thanks for any help....Harold
#4
Passenger
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gorgeous silver C5...too bad you had to sell it...I love those cars, although there are too many on the road
in regard to your questions...the rotary engine and turbo system does not like backpressure...excessive backpressure leads to high heat, leading to detonation and catostophic engine failure, therefore, I would steer clear of a car with the original pre-catalytic converter still on, if it has more than about 30k miles (which is almost all of them)...if it has a new engine, great, just BE SURE 1) it was done by a reputable shop, such as KD Rotary, 2) it is not a Mazda remanufactured (junk), 3) it does not have 3 mm seals (the band aid approach to rotary engine rebuilding), and 4) makes good compression....16 k is borderline for a good 7...18 to 20k will get you a much nicer car
the paint on these cars, esp the '93, is not the greatest, check thickness with a paint gauge before purchasing...it should be at least 4-5 mm
these cars are an absolute blast to drive, esp modified, but the number of good used ones is dwindling fast...most of them are beat.....but do not shy away from modifications performed by a conscientious owner, on the contrary, the proper mods can dramactically improve relaibility and power...it's all about the owner....get educated and ask the right questions... don't buy from a punk....email me if you have additional questions (mstrong@ch2m.com)....my pleasure to help out a former C5 owner
in regard to your questions...the rotary engine and turbo system does not like backpressure...excessive backpressure leads to high heat, leading to detonation and catostophic engine failure, therefore, I would steer clear of a car with the original pre-catalytic converter still on, if it has more than about 30k miles (which is almost all of them)...if it has a new engine, great, just BE SURE 1) it was done by a reputable shop, such as KD Rotary, 2) it is not a Mazda remanufactured (junk), 3) it does not have 3 mm seals (the band aid approach to rotary engine rebuilding), and 4) makes good compression....16 k is borderline for a good 7...18 to 20k will get you a much nicer car
the paint on these cars, esp the '93, is not the greatest, check thickness with a paint gauge before purchasing...it should be at least 4-5 mm
these cars are an absolute blast to drive, esp modified, but the number of good used ones is dwindling fast...most of them are beat.....but do not shy away from modifications performed by a conscientious owner, on the contrary, the proper mods can dramactically improve relaibility and power...it's all about the owner....get educated and ask the right questions... don't buy from a punk....email me if you have additional questions (mstrong@ch2m.com)....my pleasure to help out a former C5 owner
#5
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Thanks for the info. Do you think I will have any problems finding what I want with my budget?
Also, what do you think about the ones that Peter Farrell has for sell on his site. I know they are more than I want to spend, but are they thouroughly checked out or overpriced?
Harold
Also, what do you think about the ones that Peter Farrell has for sell on his site. I know they are more than I want to spend, but are they thouroughly checked out or overpriced?
Harold
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#8
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
There weren't a lot of '93 R1's made, so finding one for sale and it being Yellow (original Yellow) is going to be damn tough if not impossible.
Also, Yellow is a rare color for an RX-7, so the prices are much higher on those. I seriously doubt you'll find a '93 CYM R1 with 35k original miles for $16k or less (unless the engine is toasted).
Also, Yellow is a rare color for an RX-7, so the prices are much higher on those. I seriously doubt you'll find a '93 CYM R1 with 35k original miles for $16k or less (unless the engine is toasted).
#9
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
BTW, you asked about the paint on the RX-7's. The some 93's suffered from paint chipping, so by now, most if not all '93's should have been repainted or getting ready to be repainted (like me):
23. PAINT CHIPS ON HOOD, ROOF, AND OTHER BODY PANELS
This is another one of those RX-7 problems which is not documented in an official TSB but is being treated by Mazda on a case by case basis. RX-7 models painted Vintage Red, Montego Blue, or Black are most susceptible to this problem. Small paint chips start to appear on the hood, around the headlight openings, on the leading edge of the roof, and around the wheel arches. The problem is caused by a lack of adhesion between the paint and the primer and is made worse by the fact that the primer is white in color. In order to properly fix this problem, the entire car must be stripped down to bare metal, reprimed, and then repainted.
This is another one of those RX-7 problems which is not documented in an official TSB but is being treated by Mazda on a case by case basis. RX-7 models painted Vintage Red, Montego Blue, or Black are most susceptible to this problem. Small paint chips start to appear on the hood, around the headlight openings, on the leading edge of the roof, and around the wheel arches. The problem is caused by a lack of adhesion between the paint and the primer and is made worse by the fact that the primer is white in color. In order to properly fix this problem, the entire car must be stripped down to bare metal, reprimed, and then repainted.
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